Introducing: The Surprising Sartory Billard By Studio Underd0g SB05 Sunfl0wer
Did Sartory Billard and Studio Underd0g announce one of the most exciting watches of this release-packed week? The two brands joined forces to create a very special version of Sartory Billard’s SB05. This new SB05 Sunfl0wer features a unique dial designed by Studio Underd0g and produced by Sartory Billard. This 10-piece limited edition will undoubtedly win fans over. On top of that, this new collaborative effort explored new grounds for both Studio Underd0g and Sartory Billard. It’s time to find out more.
Sartory Billard has quickly made a name for itself by creating watches with stunning dials. Often, they are the result of collaborative efforts with incredibly talented craftspeople, leading to spectacular results. I had the pleasure of writing about the stunning SB07 models with maki-e dials created by Japanese master artisan Kosetsu. The result was an intriguing and stunning pair of watches. This new Sartory Billard by Studio Underd0g SB05 Sunfl0wer is a completely different watch but equally stunning.
The story of the Sartory Billard by Studio Underd0g SB05 Sunfl0wer
Let’s find out more about the backstory of this SB05 Sunfl0wer. The SB05 is an existing model in Sartory Billard’s collection that we haven’t seen a lot of at Fratello. The brand released a stunning Sartory Billard × Revolution SB05 “Uchū” last September. The watch featured a maki-e dial similar to that of the SB07 we covered last year. But whereas the SB07 is a sports watch with an integrated bracelet, the SB05 is a modern dress watch.
The SB05 Sunfl0wer features a 38.5mm stainless steel case with an 8.5mm profile. This round case comes courtesy of Voutilainen & Cattin SA and features a concave, polished bezel and short, curved lugs. As you can see, the media-blasted flanks and brushed lugs feature polished bevels for extra visual impact. I love the nice, curvy silhouette that makes the case elegant but not too classical. I would even state that it has a pleasantly contemporary feel that immediately gives it relevance.
The namesake element of the SB05 Sunfl0wer
Inside the case lies a stunning sunflower-inspired dial. The brilliant grand-grain guilloché pattern has a brown “seed-filled” center and a gold outer portion. The latter is engraved with 24 evenly spaced petals. If you look closely, you will see the y-shaped parts, which are a Sartory Billard signature element. The golden hour markers and minute track are printed on a sapphire disk that floats invisibly above the outer portion of the dial. Additionally, the minute markers carrying through to the golden ring divide the two main dial components.
In the center, we find two-piece hour and minute hands, each featuring a green base and a silver-colored main part. They correspond with the small seconds hand, small seconds sub-dial ring, and two brand-name tags. A green Epsom calfskin strap from The Strap Tailor finishes the look beautifully. The concept for the dial came from Studio Underd0g, while its execution is courtesy of Sartory Billard, and I have to say that the result is stunning. It’s abstract enough to stand on its own as a wonderful dial, meaning the sunflower concept is beautifully executed without looking over the top.
A modified La Joux-Perret 7380 caliber powers the SB05 Sunfl0wer
Visible through the sapphire display of the stainless steel case is the caliber SMB01. This 21-jewel manual-winding caliber is based on the La Joux-Perret 7380 and produced exclusively for Sartory Billard. The movement operates at 21,600vph and offers 90 hours of power reserve. On its two upper plates, we find a circular satin-brushed finish and a gray NAC treatment. In addition, the screws and beveled edges are polished, while the wheels are radially satin-brushed. All this adds to the romance built on the front of the watch, and the final product is stunning.
I love seeing these kinds of collaborations that combine a simple idea but execute it in great detail. As most of you know, this is not the first collaborative effort that Studio Underd0g has made with other brands. You will probably remember the very successful Moser & Cie. collab. Additionally, we were impressed by the Gimlet that the brand created with Fears exclusively for sale during the British Watchmakers’ Day earlier this month.
This new beautiful Sartory Billard by Studio Underd0g SB05 Sunfl0wer is proof that collaborations can lead to beautiful things. The 10 pieces will go up for sale on the Sartory Billard website on April 4th at 15:00 CEST for €12,700 (ex. VAT). Seeing the images and reading the story, I have zero doubt that these 10 watches will go fast. What a great start to a busy week!
