Introducing: The 39mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox In Smoky Purple
In 2023, at Watches and Wonders Geneva, TAG Heuer proudly presented the new Carrera Chronograph Glassbox. We were immediately swept away by its 39mm size and the sexy curves on the edge of the dial. One year before, TAG Heuer released a limited-edition Monaco with a purple fumé dial inspired by some very early Heuer Monaco references. Those watches had metallic blue paint on their brass dials and tended to patinate to a gradient fumé purple. The two new Carrera Chronographs that TAG Heuer presented yesterday have that same smoky purple sunburst dial. One is the very popular 39mm Carrera Chronograph, and the other is a 42mm limited edition with a tourbillon.
As we didn’t go hands-on with the 2022 Monaco, we didn’t quite know what to expect from the smoky purple dials. We were a bit hesitant because we weren’t such big fans of the teal-green color the brand chose for last year’s Carrera Dato Chronograph, for example. Thankfully, though, we were positively surprised by how good these watches look in person. Let’s go over the details.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox in two sizes with a smoky purple dial
Apart from their size and the addition of a tourbillon, the two new Carrera Chronographs have quite a lot in common. In terms of shape, they both have the classic stainless steel Carrera Chronograph case with horizontally brushed sides and polished bevels and lugs. In addition, the double-domed sapphire crystal gives these watches a friendly and elegant character. Although the dials have their differences, both watches have a chapter ring with a convex top and concave sides. It fits nicely into the curved crystal and minimizes distortions.
Then, we get to that particular smoky purple color. However, it’s certainly not just purple. First of all, it has a metallic sheen and a sunburst finish. But the most apparent feature is the gradient from purple to black on the edge of the dial. In combination with the black azurage-finished sub-dials, it ensures the purple hue isn’t too dominant. The rhodium-plated applied indexes and hands stand out nicely against the darker background, and so does the silver printing on the dial. Now let’s take a look at the distinguishing features of these two watches.
The 39mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox
The 39mm TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox has a 46mm lug-to-leg length and a 13.9mm overall thickness. It’s nice and compact on the wrist, and its rounded edges make it wear very comfortably on the wrist. This is the version with the date window at six o’clock. Yes, it cuts into the sub-seconds dial, but it is nicely executed with a proper frame and a black background.
The movement inside is the automatic TH20-00. This 33-jewel in-house chronograph caliber has an 80-hour power reserve, runs at a frequency of 28,800vph, and includes a column wheel and a vertical clutch. You can look at its Geneva stripes and skeletonized rotor through the sapphire crystal on the back. With the help of the screw-in case back, the watch is water resistant to 100 meters, which is plenty for a chronograph with a push-pull crown and non-screw-down pushers. Just make sure not to operate the pushers underwater.
The purple-dial TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Tourbillon
The lugs of this 42mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Tourbillon span 48.6mm from tip to tip. The watch is also a bit thicker at 14.3mm. On the dial, the tourbillon cage takes up the role of running seconds at the 6 o’clock position. On this version, there’s no date window.
The TH20-09 caliber inside is based on the TH20-00, but it has a few adaptations because of the tourbillon inside. It runs at the same frequency and also has 33 jewels, but its power reserve is 65 hours instead of 80. You can look at it through the sapphire window on the back, which is also where you’ll find your LE number. In this case, it’ll be one out of 200.
Both watches come on a black perforated calfskin strap with black stitching and a matching purple calfskin lining. The strap also features a brushed and polished stainless steel folding clasp with a push-button closure.
The price for the 39mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph with a smoky purple dial is €6,500. The limited-edition tourbillon version costs €34,400. You can find more information on the availability and price in your region on TAG Heuer’s official website.
Our impressions
As mentioned, we were all positively surprised by the purple dials on these new Carrera Chronographs. Purple is certainly not the first color you think about for a watch dial. In this case, though, it works quite well. The fumé effect nicely enhances the domed shape of both the edge of the dial and the crystal. Best of all, it’s not a very dominant color that’s too in your face. My favorite version of the Glassbox is still the reverse panda one with the date at 12. But if you’re looking for a version with a little more color, then this smoky purple one is a very good option.
Let me know your thoughts on these new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox models in the comments below.
