We’re used to outlandish creations from Ulysse Nardin, but today’s Diver Air may be the most extreme yet. The brand set out to create the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch and has gloriously succeeded. Intriguingly, several collaborators were brought on board, including materials companies that normally work on automobiles.

Ulysse Nardin takes me back to my earliest days of looking at high-end mechanical watches. Pieces like the Planetarium Copernicus and Astrolabium Galileo Galilei were audacious and expensive. Lately, the brand has focused on skeletonized watches made from advanced materials. Today’s Diver Air continues this theme but takes it to the extreme.

Ulysse Nardin Diver Air up close

The Ulysse Nardin Diver Air

A glance at the new Ulysse Nardin Diver Air might result in thinking that this is a highly skeletonized version of the Diver X. The 44mm by 50mm case is familiar, as is the X-shaped set of bridges on the transparent dial. Similarly, the 60-minute external dive bezel is a calling card for the brand’s deepwater watches. However, moving on so quickly would be a mistake because there’s a lot more — well, a lot less — than initially meets the eye.

Ulysse Nardin Diver Air on white strap

The lightest mechanical diver on record

With the new Diver Air, Ulysse Nardin sought to create the lightest mechanical dive watch. To do this, painstaking processes were used to remove material from the movement while maintaining all the robustness expected from a diver. Additionally, the plan was to use as many sustainable materials as possible. For the latter portion, Ulysse Nardin enlisted the help of technical materials partners.

Ulysse Nardin Diver Air raw materials

The Diver Air has an impressive case that focuses on circularity

To help “add lightness,” as Colin Chapman once said, Ulysse Nardin turned to TiFast and Thyssenkrupp to create the titanium mid-case. TiFast sourced material from the biomedical industry in Switzerland, and Thyssenkrupp refined the material in Florence, Italy. The result is a lightweight case made of 90% recycled material.

Ulysse Nardin Diver Air raw materials

The case flanks of the Diver Air are also innovative and made from 60% nylon and 40% carbon fiber. Here, Ulysse Nardin worked with Fil & Fab, a French recycler of fishing nets, to supply the nylon. The carbon fiber is sourced by Extracthive, a company that refines carbon fiber from the hulls of racing sailboats. Lavoisier Composites then combines the two materials to create the unique Nylo-Foil with its distinctive, marbled surface finish.

Ulysse Nardin Diver Air back and UN-347 caliber

A new caliber, the UN-374

The Diver Air has an automatic movement that weighs just seven grams! Ulysse Nardin began with the UN-372 and removed material, forming the bridges into triangles to increase strength. Amazingly, the movement can withstand shocks equivalent to 5,000 g, despite its lightness. An impressively thin rotor ensures that the watch meets ISO standards. Spec-wise, it has a 21,600vph frequency and an impressive power reserve of 90 hours. It also contains an upcycled silicon escapement made by Sigatec from upcycled wafers.

Additional details on the Diver Air

The Diver Air is meant to be practical. To facilitate this, it has a 200m depth rating. Also, the hands and indexes are filled with white Super-LumiNova, prioritizing legibility in darkness. From a comfort perspective, the watch comes with orange and white elastic straps with Velcro closures. The weight of each strap is less than six grams, bringing the total watch weight to just shy of 52 grams! Impressive!

Ulysse Nardin Diver Air on orange and white straps

Overall thoughts, availability, and pricing

Surprisingly, Ulysse Nardin is not listing the new Diver Air as a limited edition. I would’ve expected this due to the complex processing of the various materials, but it’s not the case. Regarding pricing, the watch is listed at €38,400, which reflects its exotic nature. Is this a specialized watch? Absolutely, but it’s a neat statement piece and, more so, a feat of engineering.

Watch specifications

Model
Diver Air
Reference
3743-170-2A/0A
Dial
Skeletonized with black indexes and hands with white Super-LumiNova
Case Material
90% recycled titanium (Thyssenkrupp and TiFast) mid-case, Nylo®-Foil (60% recycled fishing nets Nylo® from Fil & Fab and 40% upcycled carbon fibres from CDK Technologies) case sides
Case Dimensions
44mm (diameter) × 50mm (lug-to-lug) × 14.7mm (thickness)
Crystal
Sapphire with antireflective coating on both sides
Case Back
90% recycled titanium (Thyssenkrupp and TiFast), titanium open mineral glass case back
Movement
Ulysse Nardin UN-374: automatic with manual winding and hacking, 21,600vph (3Hz) frequency, 90-hour power reserve, 21 jewels, 199 components, upcycled silicon hairspring, anchor, and escape wheel
Water Resistance
200 meters
Strap
Orange elastic fabric with Velcro closure; additional white elastic fabric strap with Velcro closure included
Functions
Time (hours, minutes, small seconds), 60-minute dive bezel
Price
€38,400 (including 21% VAT)
Warranty
Five years