Introducing: The Updated Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph
As someone who regularly covers new Oris watch releases, it’s clear that I have a strong affection for the brand. My interest in Oris stems from the Divers Sixty-Five from 2015. For Oris, this mid-century-inspired dive watch was crucial for the brand’s revitalization. The Divers Sixty-Five retro revival spawned many variants, including the range’s first chronograph in 2018. Fast-forward five years, and the chronograph returns to the fray. However, the new stainless steel watch case now has a 40mm diameter, measuring 3mm smaller than previous iterations.
Oris has strengthened by releasing vintage-inspired models such as Divers Sixty-Five and Big Crown Pointer Date. Additionally, the consistently popular Aquis range keeps things fresh with a contemporary style and modern approach. For September 2023, Oris unveiled a new Chronograph edition for its 1960s-inspired Divers Sixty-Five collection. While this is not the first time we’ve seen such a model, several refinements broaden the appeal of this piece. Before we get to the improvements, it’s worth touching upon the first chronograph in the Divers Sixty-Five line. Launched back in December 2018 at an event in Zermatt, Switzerland, the Carl Brashear Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph had a blue dial and 43mm bronze case. Thinking back, it was wonderful to see the symmetrical dial of the Divers Sixty-Five continue with the chronograph by excluding a date window. The 2,000 pieces of the CB Chrono also maintained the 100m water resistance ratings of the three-hand models.
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph
The sizeable dimensions were where things fell apart for me in the Carl Brashear Chronograph. The 43mm diameter was on the larger side for me, but the considerable case thickness quelled my interest. Presumably due to the chronograph caliber, the bronze Divers Sixty-Five sits 16.3mm tall. By adding the chronograph complication to the Sixty-Five, the CB Chrono loses touch with the 1960s heritage skin divers. Later down the line came non-limited models in stainless steel with bronze touches, but the case dimensions remained the same. That’s why today’s launch has me excited. Oris returns the Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph to the collection but now with much more refinement. For starters, the diameter is now 40mm, in keeping with the first Divers Sixty-Five from 2015. More crucially, Oris slims the case height down to 15.4mm thick.
Reducing the dimensions while maintaining the functionality is no simple task, but by putting in the R&D, Oris now has a hugely appealing dive chronograph in the catalog. Besides the slimmer case, it’s even more amazing that the new watch uses the same Oris 771 chronograph caliber as the previous 43mm editions. The Oris 771 is a Sellita SW510 derivative with automatic winding and a 48-hour power reserve. Going along with the new size is the black-and-white design that I believe continues the theme from the Divers Sixty-Five 12H Calibre 400. The 120-click unidirectional anodized aluminum dive bezel has 60 graduations with a Super-LumiNova lump pip on the 60-minute mark. Marking the hours are circular, rectangular, and shield-shaped indices with Super-LumiNova infill.
Final specs and pricing
The 20mm lug spacing allows for the black Oris Cervo Volante deer leather strap. For my money, though, I would opt for the stainless steel rivet bracelet. This bracelet does use the slightly outdated pin-and-collar system, and the rivets don’t add much benefit other than aesthetics. But once sized, the bracelet feels smooth and comfortable with a vintage diving style that conforms to the Divers Sixty-Five’s identity. On the case back are the Oris shield logo and engravings of the specifications following the circumference.
While this new watch may not have the cachet or heritage of the Speedmasters and Daytonas of the watch world, in terms of design and specs, the Divers Sixty-Five is a credible alternative for everyday wear. The familiar silhouette of pump-style pushers and the waterproof capabilities make the Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph a strong candidate for a GADA watch. The price is CHF 4,100 / £3,450 for the bracelet model and CHF 3,900 / £3,300 for the watch on a strap. You can find out more on the Oris website here.
EDIT: A previous version of this article referred to the case height as 12.97mm. This was the case height excluding the domed sapphire crystal. The height including the crystal is 15.4mm.
