Introducing: Two New Sartory Billard SB07 Models With Striking Maki-e Dials
At the end of last year, we had three Sartory Billard flying tourbillons in the office. I remember how impressed I was with those watches. Seeing them in person was also a good showcase of the bespoke work that Sartory Billard has become known for. The brand’s latest release is another interesting display of traditional craftsmanship. Together with Martin Pulli, Sartory Billard releases two limited editions of its SB07 with maki-e dials created by Japanese master artisan Kosetsu. The result is an intriguing pair of watches.
You know you are looking at something special when you see a picture of these two new Sartory Billard SB07 models. The handcrafted dials draw you in immediately. I can only imagine how brilliant these dials are once you have the watches on your wrist. Additionally, I love that Sartory Billard, in collaboration with watch collector and dealer Martin Pulli, chose the brand’s SB07 as the canvas for these dials. Combining a modern luxury sports watch with a traditional artisanal dial can lead to remarkable results. It took me a minute to let the clash of styles sink in, but quickly, I fell in love with these two pieces.
Looking back at the Sartory Billard SB06 models
Seeing the new SB07 Maki-e watches was a great reminder of how impressive the SB06 flying tourbillons were when we had them in the office last year. As Lex explained in his review, the watches result from Sartory Billard collaborating with some of the most prestigious names in the industry to create individual parts for its watches. The level of detail of the different parts was nothing short of impressive. But in the end, the sum of all parts also has to work on the wrist. And it did! I was super impressed by how the different pieces of the puzzle created three completely different but equally stunning watches.
Their style was clearly rooted in Art Deco, but seeing variations within that theme was quite inspiring. I think this variation in aesthetic is partly due to the bespoke opportunities that Sartory Billard offers its clients. Of course, these extend to every regular model in the lineup. The new SB07 models are further proof of how the brand intriguingly explores stylistic boundaries. While the combination of elements might not be for everyone, the people who like it will most likely adore it. After letting the designs sink in for a bit, I can say I am one of them.
The story of the Sartory Billard SB07 Maki-e dials
The highlight of each of these Sartory Billard SB07 Maki-e models is the dial. The brand asked master artisan Kosetsu (Tatsuya Todo) to create 10 dials in total using the traditional Japanese art of maki-e (蒔絵). Five dials are created in green and five in blue, and each handmade dial is a unique work of art. Maki-e is a traditional decorating technique that involves painting lacquer motifs on a surface in multiple layers. The different layers are applied with an ultra-fine brush, creating intricate patterns and images that show great depth and detail. After creating the decorations, they are sprinkled with gold or silver metal powder, giving them their characteristic look. It’s also common to combine maki-e with raden (螺鈿), which involves inlaying pieces of mother-of-pearl into the lacquer, as we see here.
As you will understand, maki-e is a craft that requires years of dedicated training. Master artisan Kosetsu, who created the dials for these watches, was an apprentice at famous maki-e masters Kiichi Ikeda (of Kanazawa) and Masanori Omote (of Kaga). Over the years, Kosetsu’s outstanding work has won multiple prizes. As a result, he has become one of the most well-respected names in the world of maki-e. Fans of fountain pens will especially be familiar with his work as he decorated various pens with his creations.
A wonderful work of shimmering details
For the two dial variants of the SB07 Maki-e, Kosetsu used the shimmering effect of mother-of-pearl to create iridescent patterns. The mosaic of blue and green colors on the dials looks mesmerizing and reminds me of the brilliant stained glass windows you can find in old buildings all over Europe, including my home country of the Netherlands. It truly is something special.
Sartory Billard uses its SB07 as the canvas for the dials. It’s the brand’s take on a luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet. This category has seen a massive influx of different models at different price points. As a result, it’s often not that difficult to find visual references to other watches in any new release. At first glance, it seems the design of the SB07 takes inspiration from the Vacheron Constantin Overseas and the IWC Ingenieur. Despite this, the silhouette feels familiar without showing its influences too overtly. The wonderful dials certainly play a big part in ensuring the SB07 has an identity of its own.
Proper specs for a modern sports watch
To hit you with some specs, the SB07 features a 40mm stainless steel case that is 10.65mm thick and measures 48.5mm from lug to lug. The watch has a 100m water resistance rating, and the case and bezel feature a mix of vertically brushed, blasted, and mirror-polished parts. The SB07 comes fitted with an integrated bracelet with a butterfly clasp. This bracelet features brushed H-links with mirror-polished center links, giving it a nice visual sparkle. If you buy one of these watches, you will get an additional integrated rubber strap with a deployant clasp to give you the option to mix things up nicely.
Zooming in on the dials, atop the maki-e base, we find a sapphire disc with a pad-printed Super-Lumi-Nova railroad minute track. Additionally, it features the brand’s typical set of luminous hour markers. The beautiful dagger-style hands are also filled with Super-LumiNova to ensure you can read the time in darker conditions. Lastly, the brand’s logo sits proudly on the upper half of the dial as the only applied element on the maki-e backdrop.
Final thoughts on the Sartory Billard SB07 Maki-e
Sartory Billard equips the watches with the La Joux-Perret G100 caliber. This automatic movement operates at 28,800vph, has 24 jewels, and offers a 68-hour power reserve. It is visible through the sapphire crystal of the display case back and features a fluted titanium rotor with a hidden tungsten weight. This gives the movement a unique look that takes a step away from the standard version of the G100 found in more affordable watches.
However, as Lex also explained in his article about the SB06 flying tourbillon models, Sartory Billard doesn’t make watches for the masses. These new SB07 Maki-e watches are the perfect proof of that. But the remarkable handmade dials combined with the modern styling of the SB07 will surely win over 10 buyers. That’s why I am sure Martin Pulli will sell all these watches quickly at €12,000 (excluding VAT). What buyers get in return is a watch that looks unique and is a true work of art.
For more information about the SB07 and to reserve your exclusive piece, please visit the Martin Pulli website. Let us know your thoughts on these Sartory Billard timepieces in the comments section.
