Is The Classic Seiko SKX007 Dive Watch Still Worth Your Time In 2024?

The Seiko SKX007 is one of the most popular entry-level mechanical watches ever produced, period. But is it still worth adding one to your collection in 2024, even though it was discontinued five years ago? Let’s find out.

The Seiko SKX007’s popularity is no small feat, even for a large and culturally powerful manufacturer like Seiko. The SKX007 succeeded the Seiko 7002-7000 back in 1996 and would stay in production for nearly a quarter century until 2019. The Seiko 7002-7000 was the 1980s successor of the 6309-7040/9, which spawned the Seiko “Turtle” of today. If you want to read more about those vintage 6309s, you can check out this article. Today, though, we are not discussing the Seiko Turtle or its forebears but, rather, the Seiko SKX007. For many enthusiasts out there, this is the watch that started it all. Read on.

A design that became the benchmark for the entry-level mechanical watch

The SKX007 brought with it a winning dive-watch formula that Seiko had spent many decades mastering. Namely, it offered the perfect mix of reliability, quality, and affordability. Backing up these features were Seiko’s positive reputation and an unmistakable design language that some might even venture to call “handsome.” The case, hands, and bezel all contributed to a design language that Seiko fans know well and adore.

There’s no shortage of articles from the last decade waxing lyrical about the SKX007’s pros. These articles often also explore the watch’s siblings, like the “Pepsi” SKX009 and SKX013, the latter of which is essentially an SKX007 in a smaller form factor. These watches had entry-level prices too, which solidified a powerful formula that won fans the world over.

The Seiko SKX007

The Seiko SKX007 is a 42.5mm dive watch with a 22mm lug spacing. Like so many of Seiko’s dive watches, it manages to appear slightly smaller on the wrist, more like a 41mm watch. Aiding this is a relatively compact 46mm lug-to-lug length. The case has a 13mm thickness and provides a 200m depth rating and a screw-down crown. Inside is the Seiko 7S26 movement. This basic 21-jewel automatic caliber ticks at 21,600 beats per hour and lacks hacking seconds and manual winding.

With a standard deviation of anywhere between -20 to +40 seconds per day, it’s not a particularly accurate movement unless you luck out with a good example. I’ve owned watches with this movement that ran within COSC specs but also others that kept time on the extremes of the advertised range.

Price changes on the secondary market 

Last year, my colleague Daan revisited his SKX007 after finding it in his wife’s underwear drawer. It had been missing for a while, and it offered him the opportunity to take stock and rediscover what he liked about the watch. However, perhaps the shift of global currents has changed the playing field when it comes to considering the Seiko SKX007. In fact, it’s much harder to justify getting a Seiko SKX007 right now than it was in 2019.

Recently, I went through the process of trying to buy one for myself, and it made me realize just how much secondary-market prices for this watch have shifted since even a year or so ago. After quite a lot of searching, I realized that SKX007 prices now vary a great deal, with some unscrupulous sellers asking for more than €1,000 for one! My jaw dropped when I saw these listings, especially since the SKX007, at heart, is such a basic watch.

What is the appeal of the Seiko SKX007?

I think this boils down to what the Seiko SKX007 represents. It is a symbol of entering the hobby for many people, and there is significant nostalgia attached to that watch. The Seiko 5s that since replaced the SKX series received criticism for downgrading some specifications while upgrading others.

The 4R35 movement inside these new Seiko 5 models is superior because it offers manual winding and hacking. But the lack of a screw-down crown fundamentally undermines the original design and purpose of the watch. Therefore, my take is that the SKX007’s current appeal stems from not only an admiration of the original product but also a rejection of its successor.

So, is the Seiko SKX007 worth seeking in 2024?

When considering the importance of the SKX007 and its role in helping introduce the watch hobby to new people, the answer is “yes” — with a caveat. The Seiko SKX007 is just a great watch. The problem is, as prices have risen on the secondary market, one fundamental aspect of what made the SKX such a winner — i.e., its affordability — has waned.

If you can find an SKX007 for, say, no more than what it retailed for in 2019, I think you should go for it. But something doesn’t sit right with me about paying more than the former retail price, which was €340 in 2017. Now, I realize that this is a “feature” of discontinued watches in this hobby; some may indeed increase in value. Nevertheless, paying significantly more than €340 or so just feels wrong because of what the SKX007 supposedly represented — an entry-level, value-driven timepiece. If you can’t find the right SKX007 for a reasonable sum, I would suggest Seiko’s excellent SRPE93, which has a slightly better build quality and is an excellent rendition of the original 6309.

Concluding thoughts

So, what did I do? I borrowed a friend’s Seiko SKX007 and tried it on for a week. This made me realize I liked the design enough to buy one if I came across the right example. These horological journeys often take indirect paths, though, and in the end, I came across another Seiko reference with a different dial design that suited my tastes more. I chose a Seiko SKX173, which is a US-market version of the SKX model. That is a story for another day, and I’ll be sure to share my thoughts on the SKX173 once I’ve had the opportunity to spend some time with it.

What about you, Fratelli? What is your favorite Seiko diver? Would you consider buying the Seiko SKX007 in 2024? Let me know in the comments.