Jorg’s GADA Watch — The Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 16600

I had to think pretty hard about my approach to this topic. It’s not that I don’t have a watch that would qualify — I do. Rather, it’s because my ideal “go anywhere, do anything” watch is not one I own…yet. There will, however, come a day when the Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 16600 becomes my GADA watch, and I knew why from the very moment I put it on my wrist.

The “go anywhere, do anything” watch is an interesting concept. As my fellow Fratello editors have already explained, it is very much dependent on your regular activities. And while I don’t necessarily have a super active lifestyle, one thing I want from a GADA watch is the reassurance that it can handle anything without any problems. My GADA watch should not only be able to suit any occasion but should also be a worry-free timepiece that is built like a tank. And when it comes to that, nothing beats a Rolex. But there is more to it than just practicality because the list of practical Rolex watches is long. It’s also about the feeling a watch gives you. And from the very first time I tried on a Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 16600, I knew it was the one for me.

Coming to terms with terms

Honestly, I hardly ever talk about a “go anywhere, do anything” watch. It simply is not the term that I would use to describe what is, essentially, the one watch that I could wear every day. Some people also call this a “one-watch collection,” but I’m not a fan of the concept because it’s not my reality. After all, “Variety’s the very spice of life, that gives it all its flavour,” as William Cowper said in his poem The Task. Having said that, it is a recurring topic of discussion. In conversations with personal friends and people at Fratello, it often translates to this: what’s the one watch you could see yourself wearing every day for the rest of your life?

And the answer to that question is not a list of options. It’s simply the Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 16600. Although many watches could handle this task, that’s where the discussion both begins and ends for me. If I were to walk away from the watch world, it’s the one watch that would bring a smile to my face every day. It not only has the specs but also the presence, versatility, and quality to last a lifetime, making it my ideal choice.

Finding the right watch for the job

What would my GADA watch have to put up with? Well, I work quite a bit, play tennis regularly, attend live concerts frequently, go to the skate park with my stepson every week, and love hunting down great vinyl records at special vinyl sales and record stores. So it’s quite a varied list of regular activities but nothing that any modern watch couldn’t handle. There is a “but,” however. While a lot of watches would be fine in all of those situations, I need the reassurance that I do not have to worry about the watch being able to take a beating, stopping, or having any other malfunction during all those activities. Enter a Rolex sports watch.

Next, my one watch needs to have a presence — charisma, if you will. Tons of watches do, but no brand has guarded its designs better than Rolex. I have nothing but the utmost respect for the constant evaluation of a design that, in its essence, is already so good. And Rolex has proven over the decades that no brand is better at it. For me, the Submariner, the GMT-Master, and the Sea-Dweller are the ultimate examples of that.

A GMT-Master or a Sea-Dweller?

Despite my deep love for the GMT-Master, it won’t be my pick for this task. The one GMT-Master I want is the ref. 1675 on a Jubilee bracelet and, preferably, one from the 1960s. But that would definitely not be my daily beater. I would be way too conscious of its vintage status and, therefore, apprehensive to wear it in certain situations. On top of that, I prefer the black bezel and dial of both the Submariner and the Sea-Dweller. Black is the perfect color for my preferred daily watch in combination with my clothing.

Don’t get me wrong; I love the blue and red Pepsi bezel of the GMT-Master, but the black Sea-Dweller is simply more suited to my needs in different situations. It stands out when needed and blends in just as easily if the situation requires that. The GMT-Master, on the other hand, always stands out because of its colors. So, with the GMT-Master out as my GADA watch, that would leave the Submariner and the Sea-Dweller as potential contenders.

The Sea-Dweller versus the Submariner

When it comes to picking a Submariner or a Sea-Dweller, a few things come to mind. Thanks to its thinner profile, the Submariner is indeed easier to wear. But as I have learned over the years, I do not really mind wearing a thicker watch as long as it feels right. I am a big and tall guy, so the thicker profile of the Sea-Dweller ref. 16600 fits me very well. Its case measures 40mm wide, 48mm from lug to lug, and 14.5mm thick. This thickness is partially caused by the helium escape valve, and the impressive raised sapphire crystal also plays a part. But as it turns out, the watch is the perfect size for my wrist, and the weight reassures me that the Sea-Dweller is a competent watch.

Additionally, the Sea-Dweller ref. 16600 does not feature the famous Rolex Cyclops. I am not the biggest fan of the date magnifier, so that’s a strike against the Submariner Date. The no-date Submariner from the same generation is the ref. 14060, but I wouldn’t pick that as my favorite Submariner or my GADA watch. The “issue” of the non-COSC-certified caliber 3030 can be solved with ref. 14060M, of course, but I think the ref. 114060, with its Maxi dial and super case, is the better pick for me. My GADA watch needs a date, though, and the Sea-Dweller has the date but no Cyclops. It’s a win-win.

Caliber 3135 is perfect for everyday use

As Robert-Jan explained in his article about the Sea-Dweller ref. 16600, Rolex’s caliber 3135 is the perfect movement for the watch. It is COSC certified, super reliable, and incredibly easy to service. As such, it is also the perfect movement for my GADA watch. I don’t want to have to think about difficulties with servicing the movement in my favorite all-arounder, so the caliber 3135 offers peace of mind. But in the end, it’s not about summing up rationalizations. For me, watches are way more than that. Yes, the Sea-Dweller ticks the spec boxes, but it also embodies the right personal sentiment.

The Sea-Dweller ref. 16600 was the first Rolex sports watch I put on my wrist in 2003, and the impact of that still resonates with me 20 years later. In 2003, Robert-Jan handed me the recently purchased watch, and I was seriously impressed by its looks, weight, and build quality. As many of you will know, the first taste of bliss from a Rolex sports watch will stay with you forever, and the Sea-Dweller was that for me.

The joy of putting it on my wrist

I knew it after putting the watch on, closing the clasp with a reassuring click, and closing the flip lock for the first time. The feeling I got was one of competence. The Sea-Dweller looked great, felt super solid, and made me feel that I could anything with it. That feeling was tested several times over the years, but the magic remained every single time I put one on my wrist.

So, why didn’t I buy a Sea-Dweller? It was mainly because I spent a lot of money on other hobbies and passions. But now it’s probably time to start the quest for a Sea-Dweller of my own. Two years ago, when Robert-Jan bought back the ref. 16600, we were discussing the watch while hanging out on a Friday night. He handed me his freshly purchased ref. 16600, and once again, I put it on my wrist, closed the clasp with the flip lock, and said to Robert-Jan, “This watch tells me all I need to know. This is the one watch for me.” The Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 16600 is my perfect GADA watch, and it’s time to start finally chasing one.