Love And Hate — The Panerai PAM01350 Radiomir Tre Giorni With A Beige Dial
When Panerai introduced the Radiomir Tre Giorni with an unusual dial color last summer, it attracted relatively little attention. Well, little attention from the watch media, that is. The moment I saw the first image of it, I knew I needed to have it. And that was a bit tricky for me because I had already broken with the brand behind it. Find out what my problem was with Panerai and how the watch cajoled me.
How I got together with Panerai
For a long time, Panerai was a cult brand. The bold appearance of its watches paired with clean Italian flair brought something new to the watch world that was dominated by rather classic designs. The connection to Italian (and Egyptian) combat divers from World War II and Sylvester Stallone as an early ambassador in the 1990s exuded an aura that attracted many watch enthusiasts. I was never a diehard member of the Paneristi, but these watches also struck a chord with me. For a while, Panerai was so strongly associated with cushion-shaped watch cases that any cushion-shaped watch from another brand was considered a Panerai rip-off. I have a soft spot for cushion-shaped watches, you know.
So it became inevitable that also I got my Panerai. It is a PAM 328 that I bought in 2009. That’s a 44mm Luminor Marina. The PAM 328 came on a bracelet, which is unusual for a Panerai. Actually, I wanted the PAM 312, which is the same watch but on a strap. Even back then, Panerai had a philosophy that turned even any standard model into an annual limited edition. The PAM 312 was so popular that I couldn’t get one. Having a bracelet for a 300m-water-resistant watch made sense to me, but I put it on a strap right away.
How Panerai, in my view, went astray
Several years later, a Luminor Submersible (PAM00389) attracted my attention. But I struggled with that watch’s price. And so did many other Panerai fans. It is a common calamity that a watch brand loses its most loyal fans when it raises prices beyond a certain level. Everything becomes more expensive, and that certainly includes luxury watches. But there is an amount of price increase that is justifiable and another one that is not.
I lost my faith in Panerai when the brand introduced limited-edition watches that included a special experience, such as a day with Italian Navy divers or a trip with Mike Horn. Those limited editions had absurd prices. Even the non-limited versions of those watches had price tags far beyond what Panerai delivered in exchange. It became even worse for me when Panerai introduced special materials like Fibratech or eSteel. When you see that brands like Alpina offer watches in similar materials that are more sustainable, such as the Seastrong Calanda and Gyre watches for considerably less than €2,000, you realize that Panerai’s pricing policy can not be justified that easily.
The PAM01350 Radiomir Tre Giorni
I never wanted a Radiomir. The wire lugs always appeared like bricolage to me. The protruding onion crown without any crown guards was also a concern for me, especially in comparison to the dominant crown guard of the Luminor. But when I saw this execution of the Radiomir Tre Giorni, all my reserves were blown away. And when I had it on my wrist, I was sold.
But first things first. The dial color is what differentiates this watch. Many people associate beige with boring or old-fashioned things. I am reminded of sand at the beach or in the desert, both of which I love. I also discovered that watches with white dials often create too strong of a contrast for my taste. The situations in which strictly formal attire, including a white shirt, is advisable have become rare, at least for me, so a white dial is no longer a clear choice. Yes, I have many watches with black dials and other dark tones. But when it is a bright, sunny day, and I’m wearing brightly colored clothes, I like to add a watch with a bright dial.
Dial details
This Radiomir even offers a gradient beige dial. The gradient is minor but adds a little depth to the watch’s appearance, which might have looked like a pancake without it. As this is a sandwich dial, the big indices are slightly recessed. The contrast between them and the surrounding dial is low. From a distance, you don’t see the indices. An arm’s length away from my eyes, though, I have never experienced any problem reading the time.
In the dark, these indices expose a luscious green lume — it’s a Radiomir after all. The red-golden hands are filled with the same luminous material. As these hands come in a more discreet red gold instead of an obtrusive yellow gold, they don’t interfere with the matte steel case. And yes, there are only two hands and no date, reducing any distraction on this clean dial to a minimum.
45 millimeters of cushion-shaped Patina steel
Yup, this watch is big. And the shape of the Radiomir case contributes additional visual impact. But the wire lugs are as short as lugs can feasibly be. Therefore, this watch doesn’t feel or look that big on the wrist. Also, apart from the extremely thin but tall bezel and the box-shaped, minimally domed crystal, the actual case of this watch is impressively thin.
Panerai calls the surface treatment of the case “Patina steel.” At first, all surfaces receive a satin finish. Subsequently, all edges receive a polish that diminishes with increasing distance from the edge. This evokes the impression of a steel surface that has become lackluster over time but with edges that have been rubbed shining. I like that this watch case has a dimmed surface while the polished edges add some visual appeal. But the idea of a used look doesn’t excite me.
Beyond the first impression
The back is solid and screws into the case. I find Panerai using snap-on case backs for its current entry-level watches unacceptable, but here we have an appropriate realization. One probably must be thankful for the all-steel back. The P.6000 movement inside is a simple hand-wound caliber and Panerai’s replacement for the Unitas (ETA) 6497/8. The power reserve of three days has given this watch model its name (Tre Giorni).
In contrast to the Unitas caliber, the P.6000 not only has a longer power reserve but also a hacking mechanism. As we know from Panerai, the movement inside this watch is probably completely unfinished. But I have to admit that it shows good accuracy. After fully winding the watch, you cannot and should not try to turn the crown any further. When you push the crown in, the winding mechanism unlocks so that you can screw in the crown.
The watch’s medium-brown suede strap is surprisingly soft. Panerai’s typical mighty trapezoidal pin buckle forms an optical counterweight to the big watch head.
Overall impression
Despite the shortcomings I described above, I truly do like this watch. I enjoy its look on my wrist, and it fills a gap in my collection. It is also quite comfortable to wear. Do I find the price of €7,200 for this watch justified? No! The design is great, but the wire lugs are a rather cost-effective solution. The movement driving this watch resembles those found in watches costing less than half of this price. But how could I buy this watch if I didn’t find it worth the money? Well, that probably is one of the mysteries that constitute passion.
Looking for an answer to the question in the subtitle of this article, I ask myself: “Can I love a watch and hate the brand behind it?” Probably not. During the years I have engaged in watches, I have become more critical, yes, but I am not frustrated. I no longer identify with any brand. I’m wearing a watch; I’m not promoting a brand. This attitude is connected to the fact that I don’t consider myself a collector anymore. I can wear a Panerai without being one of the Paneristi. If you’d like to find out more about how this brand presents itself today, visit Panerai’s homepage.
Do you feel related to watch brands? Do you own a watch from a brand you don’t particularly like? When you speak of your watch, do you describe its type and look, or do you identify it by its brand? Let’s discuss this in the comment section.
