Modern And Attainable “MilSubs” From CWC, Marathon, And Seiko

This will be an article featuring some of my favorite watch brands out there. Here are a few examples of watches that, in my mind, earn their rightful place next to the Rolex “MilSub.”

The so-called Rolex “MilSub” (short for Military Submariner) is a rare breed. MilSub watches don’t consist of any one reference. Rather, they represent various references over the years that served with the Royal Navy. Now, here is an important distinction: in its purest sense, the term “MilSub” strictly refers to military-issued Rolex watches. In fact, according to Bob’s Watches, “A compound of the words ‘Military’ and ‘Submariner,’ [MilSub] describes any of the four different references that were modified to meet the requirements of the British Armed Forces, going back as far as 1957.” 

A caveat before we begin 

There are experts out there who could write a PhD dissertation on the subject of MilSubs. This article uses the cultural term (referring mainly to dive watches with military heritage) rather than the technical one outlined above. I could have written “MilSub-esque” every time, but that starts to sound a little silly. One example of a vintage Rolex with military provenance that I covered earlier this year was an Australian Rolex Submariner 5510. It was being refurbished by Greg Petronzi, an expert restorer of vintage Rolex and Tudor timepieces. But this wasn’t an issued watch.

By a stroke of good fortune, I even tracked down the original owner’s enlistment photo in the national Australian archive. Much has also been written about the venerable military-issued Omega Seamasters of the 1960s. These watches, with their iconic large sword hands, are some of the prettiest dive watches ever made (if you ask me).

Credit: Analog:Shift

MilSub-esque

The term “MilSub” has, over time, morphed into a broader category strictly beyond Rolex. It also encompasses watches from Tudor and, in a broader cultural sense, a whole host of different military-issued dive watches from many different manufacturers. For some of purists, this much broader use of the MilSub nickname might grate a bit. But we’re a democratic lot here at Fratello, so in that spirit, when I refer to MilSubs, I do so with an emphasis on dive watches with military heritage rather than Rolex specifically.

With that caveat (restated and underlined) out of the way, let’s take a plunge and look at some modern dive watches that riff strongly off that MilSub vibe. If you appreciate the connection between horology and the strict demands of serving as a time-telling tool in the military, then this list is for you. And, Fratelli, I would like to read your suggestions on this subject in the comments!

The CWC Royal Navy Diver Automatic Mk. 2

I was always going to pick a watch from the British brand CWC. This particular watch, the CWC RN Diver, has the heritage of military-issued Rolex Submariners and Omega Seamasters but with a more approachable price. CWC, now owned by Silvermans in the UK, was founded by Hamilton’s UK representative in the 1970s. The brand took on a lot of Ministry of Defence contracts. These RN Diver watches are based on the actual watches issued to the Royal Navy in the early 1980s. Variations of these continued to be issued right up until the 2000s. I liked this CWC RN Diver so much that I bought one for my collection.

This CWC offers water resistance to 300 meters, excellent lume, and a simple but easy-to-read aluminum bezel. The case, which is reminiscent of the Heuer 844, has a screw-down crown protected by crown guards. For the movement, you can opt for either a simple Swiss quartz or a top-grade Sellita SW200-1, which is the one I chose. The latter provides 38 hours of power reserve, good timekeeping, and solid durability. It is also a common movement that will be easy to service in years to come. The lug bars are also fixed, meaning this will be a watch for NATO straps only. The automatic version retails for £1,082.50.

The Marathon Pilot’s Navigator

Okay, this is not a dive watch, but hear me out. Marathon is a fantastic brand. It has supplied watches to various military units over the years and has a no-nonsense approach to its watch designs. The particular watch here today is one my colleague Thomas has written about, the Marathon Pilot’s Navigator (formerly called the Military Navigator). Marathon watches are required to abide by the US military standard MIL-PRF-46374G. This is because they are supplied to American armed forces. The Canadian brand has watches made in Switzerland.

The case is asymmetrical and comes in at 41mm wide. However, the 12-hour bezel, perfect for tracking another time zone, measures 39mm across, which helps make the watch wear a little smaller. This watch’s dial features a classic military layout and tritium tubes. These tubes are filled with H3 gas, which emits light without needing any external charge (like sunlight). The watch houses an ETA quartz movement and now comes in at €522. While the price has increased quite a bit over the years, this Marathon model has an ultimate cool factor attached to it.

Seiko “Turtle” SRPE93

The Seiko SRPE93, formerly known as the SRP777, is a modern classic. In my first-ever article for Fratello, I argued why this watch would be a future classic for the brand. The Seiko Turtle (nicknamed for the shape of the case) is based on a model introduced in 1976, the Seiko 6309-7040. This watch’s family included the iconic Seiko 6105-8110, known as the “Willard,” and the 6105-8000, a lesser-known sibling. The SRPE93 is part of the modern Prospex line, making this a truly professional-spec dive watch. The Seiko 6309, which this watch is essentially based on, has often been pictured in all sorts of military deployments. More often than not, it was part of a soldier’s private kit rather than an issued watch. I can’t think of a better endorsement.

The Turtle retails for around €420–440 depending on the country and may not be available new in all markets. However, if you shop around online you can find it for less. For a reasonable price, you get a 200m-rated dive watch with a rugged Seiko caliber, a day/date display, and a whole bunch of heritage to boot. I recently sold mine to a friend simply because the watch was a little too large for me. But if you have larger wrists or like a larger watch, then look no further.

Omega Seamaster 300M 2254.50.00

Finally, we get to this neo-vintage gem from Omega, the Seamaster 300M 2254.50.00. Our managing editor Nacho owns one of these, and it’s a beauty. The watch has a modified ETA 2892-2 caliber, making it quite slim to wear. The sword hands and triangular dial markers are a throwback to the military Omega Seamasters of old. Much has been written about this watch, including here on Fratello, and it represents some of the best ergonomic designs of the period.

The only issue I have with this particular watch is I find the scalloped bezel difficult to turn with wet hands. But there’s something quite charming about it, and, with asking prices starting around €2,700, you can find one less than a current Tudor Pelagos FXD or Omega Seamaster. The 300m water resistance rating provides more than enough durability for even the toughest of assignments.

Concluding thoughts

This list could go on. A notable modern variation of this philosophy of design has to be the Tudor Pelagos FXD, on which the lugs and strap bars are inseparable, adding to durability. The dial design is reminiscent of the Tudor Submariners of old. It’s just a little too large for me (I have tried it on at the boutique). If it were smaller, it would be at the top of my list. Vintage Tudor Submariners were also, in some cases, issued to militaries. This included the Marine Nationale, the inspiration for the modern blue FXD.

In addition to Tudor, there are so many other brands out there with worthy history and heritage. There are also watches from the likes of Sinn, Casio, Fortis,Citizen. Perhaps some of these could form a Part 2? What options should be on this list in your opinion, Fratelli? I’m looking forward to reading your suggestions in the comments. And let’s remember that this is a safe space to use the term “MilSub.” Over and out!