New Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887

Breguet introduced the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 at Baselworld 2017. Back then they did so in platinum and rose gold. Breguet has added another rose gold version to the 5887 lineup. A spectacular slate-grey dial gives this model a distinct character.

For a long time, I thought Breguet watches were too classically-styled for my taste. Despite this, they keep growing on me. Every time I take a closer look at the Breguet collection, I find myself attracted to a growing number of incredible watches. I have had a soft spot for the Breguet Type XX line but I have started to appreciate more watches from the brand’s catalog. Maybe it’s an age thing? Maybe, now I’ve hit my forties, I’m able to appreciate the classic looks. Who knows? But it’s not only my age that plays a part in the growing appreciation for the brand’s classical designs. The brand has also taken steps in updating the designs of their watches.

A good example is the current Marine collection that Breguet introduced in 2018. With updated overall looks, the Marine collection has taken quite significant steps in becoming more relevant. Obviously, the brand does not attract people that are looking to buy a modern watch. A lot of Breguet’s designs are inspired by 18th and 19th-century pocket watches. The brand doesn’t hide that fact. But it looks like the designers at Breguet have finally figured out how to wrap that up in a modern package. Breguet is taking real strides in updating its designs. This new contemporary standard is very appealing. And the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 is the perfect example.

The Marine Collection

Typically, the story of the Breguet Marine collection goes back a long way. The collection gets its name from an unusual title held by Abraham-Louis Breguet. In 1815, he was appointed Horloger de la Marine Royale. Being the official chronometer maker to the French Royal Navy was one of the most prestigious titles a watchmaker could have at that time. Breguet started creating new marine chronometers for the French Royal Navy almost immediately. In good Breguet tradition, he constantly introduced new and improved versions. The Breguet name would be connected to the French Royal Navy for several decades. Breguet, his son, and grandson all supplied the navy with chronometers.

…a steady part of the collection for the last 30 years.

Back in 1990, Breguet used that story to introduce the Marine collection. Inspired by the classic looks and technical brilliance of the marine chronometers, the Marine collection has been a steady part of the collection for the last 30 years. As mentioned earlier Breguet introduced the current Marine collection in 2018 with updated looks.

I have a soft spot for both the regular Marine 5817 in rose gold with a black dial on a rubber strap and the Marine GMT 5857 in that same configuration. They both look stunning. And as the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 has a great deal in common with those two watches in terms of looks, it is no surprise that I like its looks a lot. But the one thing important to keep in mind is that the 5887 was introduced a year earlier. It served as an inspiration for the Marine collection.

New and improved looks

Breguet introduced the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 at Baselworld 2017. You can clearly see how its looks inspired the Marine collection that followed a year later. The Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 was introduced in platinum with blue dial and blue leather strap. It was also available in rose gold with silvered gold dial and brown leather strap. And now we have the introduction of this new rose gold version with a beautiful slate-grey gold dial. In my opinion, it is the most handsome of the bunch.

The Breguet 5887 in platinum

Personally I love the combination of a rose gold case and a dark color like black, grey, or dark brown. There is something very classy and warmly inviting about its appeal. Similarly, it is in this vein where I feel the platinum/blue dial/strap version falls short. Overall it’s a bit colder. It feels a bit more stand-offish. That’s why I think Breguet made a clever decision by introducing this new version of the 5887.

Breguet’s incredible craftsmanship

The watch features a 43.9mm round rose gold case that is 11.75mm thick. For Breguet standards, it’s a rather large case. That adds to the contemporary feeling of the watch. In typical Breguet fashion, the case band and crown are fluted. A nice detail is the integrated angular lugs of which the central lug is brushed. That contrasts with the rest of the case. The watch is water-resistant to 100m. Although that isn’t surprising for a watch inspired by life on the high seas, it is significant for a watch of such complexity.

…a common visual trick found in many Breguet watches.

The dial is a piece of incredible craftsmanship. The rose gold case is perfectly contrasted by the slate-grey engine-turned dial. In the center of the dial, a wave pattern gives you the feeling of the sea and obviously hinting to the Marine background. The large rose gold Roman numeral hour markers sit on a ring of brushed silver. That ring is placed slightly off-center. It is a common visual trick found in many Breguet watches. As with many good designs, there is a practical justification for this. The off-center configuration creates space for the tourbillon and equation of time cam. These elements are placed at the bottom right between the 4 and 6 o’clock position.

A Grande Complication

Besides the new color configuration, this version of the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 technically is exactly the same as the previously released models. Technically, the 5887 was already an amazing timepiece. Breguet also uses the name Marine “Grande Complication” for this watch so it’s the brand’s top of the line for the Marine collection. The watch is powered by the Breguet caliber 581DPE movement. A solid platinum peripheral rotor winds a caliber that boasts an 80-hour power reserve.

But then Breguet is not really a practical brand.

The watch features a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, and equation of time marchante, also known as a running equation of time. Both the tourbillon and equation of time complications are very classical complications. Neither is particularly practical. But then Breguet is not really a practical brand. And nor should it try to be. Although we see tourbillons quite regularly, the equation of time is a rather rare complication.

The short way of explaining what an equation of time complication does is that it tells the difference between solar time and mean civil time. These differences can add up to 16.25 minutes during a full year. This variation is due to the earth’s elliptical path around the sun as well as its tilted axis. On most watches, the Equation Of Time would have a separate indicator on the dial. On this Breguet 5887 the difference is shown by a large hand tipped with a circle that represents the sun. It serves as the secondary minute hand that accompanies the hour and minute hands, thus making it a running equation of time.

A Grande Complication

Next to the two Breguet style hand for hours and minutes and the running equation of time hand, the dial features a fourth central hand in the shape of an anchor that shows the date. The retrograde date display is placed in the upper part of the dial and day and date apertures in the upper left and upper right corners of the dial at 10:30 and 1:30 respectively.

…it is a secret that reveals itself to the wearer and wearer alone.

As previously mentioned the tourbillon and the kidney-shaped cam that controls the equation of time mechanism are situated at the bottom right of the dial. They are visibly placed underneath a sapphire disc. This disc has the months of the year engraved on it. Thanks to that, you are able to keep track of the rotating cam’s operation throughout the year. Lastly, the watch also features a power reserve indicator at the 7 o’clock position. Don’t worry if you missed that upon first glance. It’s pretty well hidden! But I like that. I like that it is a secret that reveals itself to the wearer and wearer alone.

For the happy few

Finally, when you turn the watch around you will find more incredible craftsmanship. The remarkable movement is visible through the sapphire case back. The finishing of this movement is exceptional. It is truly spectacular. Engraved on the bridges is the “Royal Louis” — the ship of King Louis the 18th. Next to that, you will find a compass rose engraved on the barrel. Meanwhile, the reverse view of the tourbillon has the text Brevet du 7 Messidor An 9 (26 June 1801) engraved on it.

…an incredible price tag for an incredible watch.

It refers to the date when Abraham-Louis Breguet patented his tourbillon. In a beautiful flourish, it is engraved in the French Republican calendar format. These intricate details add up. In my mind, they contribute to making this the ultimate timepiece within the Breguet Marine collection.

Personally I love that Breguet has introduced this new configuration of the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887. It has an incredible sense of style. And it is so much better in rose gold. And that sense of style certainly has to come across if you are willing to pay the €209,500 price that will see this watch on your wrist. It’s an incredible price tag for an incredible watch. As such, it is surely a stunning timepiece for the happy few. But if I would have to choose between the three available models, this would definitely be my choice.

If you want to find out more about the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 or want to see all available models, visit the official Breguet website