Everything You Need To Know About The New Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch

Meet the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, with a new movement. The new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch has the caliber 3861 Master Chronometer movement, a new case, dial, and case back. In this article, you read everything there’s to know about the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch.

I am super excited, as today is a very special (Speedy) Tuesday, as Omega announces its successor to the Speedmaster Moonwatch that has been in the collection since 1996. Bringing an update to an all-time classic needs to be done with care, and that’s exactly what Omega did. They took their time and updated the bits and pieces that everyone felt needed an update (the bracelet comes to mind). Besides that, Omega included a number of new cool details that grab back to the past. What stayed are the things nobody should ever touch! Let’s have a closer look at the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 310.30.42.50.01.001 and its variations.

The New Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch

When Omega’s designer Claude Baillod and Head of Creation Pierre Moinat came up with the Speedmaster in 1957, I am sure they wouldn’t have dared to dream about the iconic status it has today. Sure, a lot has changed since that very first Speedmaster CK2915 from 1957, but after the 4th iteration (105.012) in 1964, the design changes have been minimal.

As you know, the Speedmaster reference 105.012 was the one worn by astronaut Buzz Aldrin when he set foot on the Moon. The other Speedmaster references worn on the Moon are the 145.012 (an updated 105.012 basically) and the older 105.003, also known as “Ed White”. In this article, you can read about all the Speedmasters that were on the Moon.

The new Ø42mm Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is based on that 4th iteration, meaning the case dimensions and beveled case back is according to the original Moonwatch with reference 105.012. Basically, it’s the same case as the Apollo XI 50th anniversary or Silver Snoopy Award, which was introduced last October. The bezel is made of steel, with an aluminum insert and a Dot-Over-Ninety on the tachymeter scale.

What has changed?

The new Omega Speedmaster Professional will replace the current one, with caliber 1861 and 1863. It is the end of an era that started in 1996 when Omega introduced the Speedmaster Moonwatch reference 3570.50. It had a new bracelet and a new movement. One year later, the 3570.50 was the first Speedmaster Professional to use Super-LumiNova instead of tritium. It used Omega’s caliber 1861, which is an update of the caliber 861. In 2014, the current Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch” was introduced. There were no major upgrades, though. We saw the reference number coding system change a bit, a bracelet using screws instead of pins, and a new box. That was all.

…the most important update of the Speedmaster Moonwatch since 1968…

And now, Omega is giving the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch the biggest update in a long time. I would even say, the biggest since 1968 when the caliber 861 was introduced as the successor to the caliber 321. Today, Omega announces the new Speedmaster Moonwatch. This watch will be the benchmark of the collection for years — probably decades — to come.

In short, the major changes (besides the case shape) are a new movement (caliber 3861) and a new bracelet. But you will also find a lot of details on the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch that enthusiasts and collectors will definitely appreciate.

A new dial for the Moonwatch

One of the first things to notice about the new Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is the new dial and the chronograph second hand. The black varnished display welcomes back the “step” that the Speedmaster used to have till around 1974. It creates more depth to the dial and emphasizes the pie-pan effect. The printing of the wordmarks “Speedmaster” and “Professional” has also changed a little bit. In the past, the “professional” text was wider than the “Speedmaster” mark that sat above it. They are now the same width.

The chronograph hand has the same short-end “teardrop” (or “drop counterweight”) shape as the one on the Speedmasters that were used on the Moon (105.003, 105.012, and 145.012). In 1968, this changed to a flat counterweight second’s hand that was used up until the outgoing Speedmaster Professional 311.30.42.30.01.005.

Four versions of the new Speedmaster Moonwatch

There are four versions of the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. Reference 310.30.42.50.01.001 (steel case back, steel bracelet, and Hesalite crystal) is perhaps the most basic but also the most “iconic” version. It is a direct descendant of the Speedmasters used on the Moon and during space flights in general. What they all have in common, however, is the 3861 movement.

Then, there’s the Omega Speedmaster Professional 310.32.42.50.01.001. Also featuring the Hesalite crystal and solid case back, with now on a black nylon strap with a fold-over clasp. The strap tapers from 20mm to 16mm. It is best compared to the strap used on the Silver Snoopy Award from 2015.

The third and fourth iteration of the Speedmaster Moonwatch (310.30.42.50.01.00 for the steel bracelet version and 310.32.42.50.01.002 for the model on a black leather strap) have sapphire crystals fitted. On the front and the back, so it will enable you to admire the new caliber 3861 Master Chronometer movement. One way to identify a sapphire crystal version is that it also has a diamond polished applied Omega logo on the dial. On the hesalite models, this logo is printed. That’s right; there’s now a visual indication to see if you’re dealing with a Moonwatch with Hesalite crystal or one with a sapphire crystal.

Hesalite versus sapphire

Let’s say you are ready to purchase your first Moonwatch (when you’re already down to your second, third or worse… you probably know what you want). You have to make the decision between sapphire and Hesalite and between a soft nylon strap and a steel bracelet. The latter decision is, in my opinion, an easy one to make: go for the bracelet version. More about that later on in this article. The tough choice is perhaps between the box-form scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and the Hesalite crystal. My colleague and Moonwatch mentor Gerard Nijenbrinks wrote an excellent article on the sapphire versus Hesalite topic, so I urge you to give that a read.

In the past, the difference between sapphire and Hesalite also had to do with the movement. The Hesalite version came with a steel case back, without the movement being visible (yes, there were in the past, but those were discontinued a few years ago). The sapphire Moonwatch did come with a transparent case back and had a different movement: the caliber 1863. A caliber 1861 basically, with more attractive finishing.

Applied logo

Now, the new Speedmaster Moonwatch with sapphire (reference 310.30.42.50.01.00 and 310.32.42.50.01.00) also has an applied Omega logo, as mentioned above. So you need to find out whether you prefer the printed Omega logo or the applied logo. I noticed that people tend to lean towards an applied logo, but the fact is that the printed logo has been used for a long time as well (never used on the Moon, though). In the end, it is your call.

I am developing a slight preference for the Omega Speedmaster Professional with Hesalite crystal. It has the nicely embossed Omega logo in the center, and it has this “magnifier” effect on the dial. It doesn’t show the caliber 3861 Master Chronometer chronograph movement, but I am lucky enough to own the Speedmaster Professional Moonshine gold edition, with caliber 3861. If I didn’t have that watch, I might have been in camp sapphire. The movement is too nice not to admire from time to time.

In terms of dimensions, the sapphire crystal versions are a bit slimmer than the Hesalite models — 13.18mm vs. 13.58mm.

Master Chronometer Caliber 3861

One of the things about this new Omega Moonwatch that excites me most is the movement. No longer will there be a difference between the Moonwatch with and without sapphire case back. All will have the same beautiful caliber 3861 beating away inside. Omega has used it in three of its watches so far, but all either limited (Apollo XI) or special (Silver Snoopy Award) editions. Now, it is replacing the famous 1861 and 1863 calibers.

What is so special about this movement? The new 3861 chronograph movement is partly based on caliber 1861 (with roughly 50% new parts, though) but has a few interesting features. It has a Co-Axial escapement, which results in less friction and higher accuracy. The accuracy of this chronograph movement is between 0 and +5 seconds per day on average, officially certified by METAS (We recently did a podcast with Omega’s VP of Production and Procurement Andreas Hobmeier, who explains METAS and Master Chronometer). It is able to withstand magnetic fields of >15,000 gauss and has a power reserve of 50 hours. Also, the caliber 3861 has a hacking feature. Meaning that the running seconds will stop when you pull out the crown.

From my own experience with this movement, I can say that it is a great and accurate timekeeper…

Until now, the caliber 3861 was only visible in the Speedmaster Apollo XI 18ct Moonshine. That movement looks slightly different though, due to the gold plating. In the new Speedmaster Moonwatch, Omega uses a rhodium-plated caliber 3861. The decoration is the same though. Geneva waves, circular graining, and beveled edges. Furthermore, this caliber 3861 has gold-filled engravings. Unlike the caliber 1861, the Delrin brake has been replaced with a metal one.

Co-Axial chronometer movement

From my own experience with this movement — I have been wearing the Moonshine version with caliber 3861 since July 2019 — I can say that it is a great and accurate timekeeper. I also find myself taking off the watch to admire the movement from time to time, so a sapphire crystal case back does offer some added value, I’d say.

On the case back, you will find an indication that this Speedmaster Moonwatch has a Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement. It is different from the “original” Moonwatch of course, but personally, I don’t mind it being engraved on there. In the end, it is a modern watch and a mighty tribute to the one that has been used on the Moon and in space. If things like this engraving (or a new movement) annoy you, it is best to start searching for an original 105.003, 105.012, or 145.012. I am happy that Omega didn’t choose to put a “Master Chronometer” text on the dial, as many other watches in the Omega collection have.

Speedmaster Moonwatch Old vs New

A lot has changed, but a lot also remains the same. If I’d show the new Omega Speedmaster Professional to my friends who aren’t that much into watches, they probably won’t notice the difference at first glance. The details on the dial will give it away for some, and in both cases — sapphire and Hesalite — the case back has changed over the old one. The immediate giveaway is — of course — the new bracelet.

Did I save the best for last? I don’t know, but the new bracelet is, for me, one of the main reasons to add one to my modest Speedmaster collection. I recently published a love story on the bracelet of my Speedmaster Apollo XI Moonshine, which is basically the same one as on this new Speedmaster Moonwatch. It doesn’t taper from 20mm to 14mm like the gold version, but to 15mm. The 14mm wouldn’t be a problem, to be honest, but I can imagine many people out there think it might be too small. Also, the 14mm wide clasp is a tribute to the original gold Speedmaster reference BA145.022-69.

As I wrote in my love story on the gold bracelet, it looks a bit like the reference 1479 but does look different when carefully observing the details and finishing. Also, the quality of the new Omega bracelets is much higher than those from the 1990s and 1980s. The bracelet has a nice brushed finish with polished sides, a perfect match to the watch. Finally, the days of the polished in-between links are over. To me, the bracelet of the current Speedmaster Professional since 1996 has always been one of the weakest links. Although comfortable, and especially on the last iterations the quality improved, the looks never added up for me. The bracelet on the sapphire version has small polished in-between links.

Also important to know, the new Speedmaster bracelet does fit the former Moonwatch! In the picture above, the new bracelet on my reference 3570.50. No modification needed, but I have to add that I did use the pins of the new Speedmaster Moonwatch. Also, as you can see in the picture above, it does leave a tiny gap between the case and end link. If you’re suffering from OCD, you might go mental.

Always on the bracelet

I would always purchase a Moonwatch (and I actually always did, when applicable) on a bracelet and buy a strap separately. It just makes more sense to me, as adding the bracelet later will seriously cost you. This way, you can also choose which strap you prefer, the leather from the sapphire edition or the black nylon strap from the Hesalite version.

“Flight Qualified by NASA in 1965 for all manned space missions”…

The elephant in the room is perhaps the engraving on the stainless steel case back version. Where the sapphire case back editions have “First Watch Worn on the Moon” engraved, the solid steel case backs have “Flight Qualified by NASA in 1965 for all manned space missions”, instead of the traditional, “Flight Qualified by NASA for all manned space missions”.

The “Flight qualified” part has been a major topic in various fora and Facebook groups. Is the new Speedmaster Moonwatch with caliber 3861 still flight-qualified by NASA? Let me start by saying that the Moonwatch with caliber 1861 also wasn’t tested and qualified as such, by NASA. With the test procedures in mind and the changes made to the movement, the new Speedmaster Moonwatch should pass those tests without a problem. In 1978, NASA also didn’t do the rigorous test works on the Speedmaster caliber 861 themselves. It was done by Omega, based on the framework defined by NASA. And NASA qualified the watch nevertheless. Did Omega test the new watches accordingly? They did (we asked).

Speedmaster Moonwatch in Gold

Then, Omega also makes these watches available in gold! Sedna gold, which is Omega’s own rose gold alloy, and Canopus gold, Omega’s white gold. The specifications of the watch are equal to the steel Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer in stainless steel with sapphire. Both gold editions come with the strap and the bracelet, and all versions have the sapphire display back. We will soon report about these gold models separately. That said, I am happy Omega decided to add a gold Speedmaster Professional in the regular collection again. We have missed those since 2012.

As you will see below, the Canopus (white) gold version is quite a bit higher priced than the Sedna gold. This has to do with the composition of the gold (grey golds are generally speaking more expensive), as it contains a high percentage of Palladium. It also has to do with the machining process of gold, which is more expensive on Canopus than on Sedna gold, according to Omega.

Pricing and Availability

The Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with caliber 3861 Master Chronometer movement comes in four variations, as explained. It also means there are four reference numbers with four price tags.

Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Caliber 3861 Hesalite:

• 310.32.42.50.01.001 – CHF 5,500 Swiss Francs/€5,800 (strap)
• 310.30.42.50.01.001 – CHF5,800 Swiss Francs/€6,100 (bracelet)

Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Caliber 3861 Sapphire:

• 310.32.42.50.01.002 – CHF 6,300 Swiss Francs/€6,700 (strap)
• 310.30.42.50.01.002 – CHF 6,600 Swiss Francs/€7,000 (bracelet)

Speedmaster Moonwatch  Sedna gold Calibre 3861

• 310.60.42.50.01.001 RRP CHF 32,200/€34,100 (bracelet)
• 310.63.42.50.01.001 RRP CHF 22,800/€24,100 (strap)

Speedmaster Moonwatch Canopus gold Calibre 3861

• 310.60.42.50.02.001 RRP CHF 41,900/€44,300 (bracelet)
• 310.63.42.50.02.001 RRP CHF 28,100/€29,700 (strap)

*Swiss prices are without sales tax, EU prices are based on German retail prices (including VAT).

As you can see, the price increased somewhat, but nowhere near the €2,000 that some people were implying. The current Speedmaster Moonwatch on Hesalite 311.30.42.30.01.005 has a retail price of CHF 4,950 Swiss Francs (€4,900 in The Netherlands including 21% VAT). So that’s about CHF 850 Swiss Francs added for the new Speedmaster Moonwatch model on a bracelet (310.30.42.50.01.001). Considering the new bracelet, new movement, and all those awesome details, it seems to be more than fair.

The box is a smaller version of what it used to be, similar to the one used for the Snoopy 50th Anniversary version.

The steel models are being delivered as of now. The gold editions will be delivered to the markets at the end of January. More information can be found on the official Omega website.