New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Models

Adding the blue dial and skeleton models to the mix

April 25, 2020

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The Overseas line by Vacheron Constantin is on the move. It is stepping out of the shadows cast by the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Capitalizing on a groundswell of positivity, Vacheron Constantin is bringing us more options to choose from.

Ok, don’t tell my wife about the new blue dial Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. Last year in May, my wife and I attended a Havana Club and Vacheron Constantin party, in Whitehall, London. Sipping Airmail and Dark ‘n’ Stormy cocktails certainly lowered our inhibitions. Before long, we were inquiring about beautiful Vacheron Constantin Overseas watches that may have (definitely) been beyond our means. Luckily, the helpful staff members were more than happy to provide information on the collection.

Choices, choices

For me, it was the steel overseas with a blue dial. The stark steel case is offset by a simple date window and of layers upon layers of blue lacquer. My wife was enticed by the perpetual calendar model in a 41.5mm pink gold case. With a matching bracelet and silver dial, it had a sharp and clean look. Somehow — by complete chance — we were color-matched to our choices.

The Perp Cal UT was the latest model to be adorned with an integrated 18-carat pink gold bracelet. That arrived in 2019. The reoccurring Maltese cross pattern tapers uniquely to the folding clasp with comfort adjustment. Previously, the watch was only pared with quick release leather or rubber strap options. I feel the bracelet is an intrinsic element of the Overseas range that harks back to the VC Ref. 222 designed by Jorg Hysek. Thankfully, Vacheron also delivers the Overseas with two additional leather and rubber straps, each with an individual pin buckle.

Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Blue

The gradual and deliberate release cycle of the Overseas collection has led to the standout elements of our preferences to coalesce into the watch you see here — the new Perpetual Calendar Overseas Ultra-Thin with blue dial.

Not settling for a uniform finish, the new Overseas employs a satin, sunburst pattern on the dial. Additionally, the sub-dials for the day, month, and date have radial snailing. Furthermore, the repetitive minute-track on the flange offers a third, more velvety finish that draws your eyes to the central indications. Helping to keep an eye on the tides, is the half-moon aperture that tracks the phases of the moon with a pink gold disc. The gold hands and indices are filled with luminescent material. Consequently, this luxurious sports watch performs admirably in low light situations.

The 48-month sub-dial is a bit busy in my opinion.

The general layout is clear and well-proportioned. But it is not without criticism. The 48-month sub-dial is a bit busy in my opinion. Each 12-month cycle is displayed within 1-quarter of the sub-dial with the fourth quarter doubling up as a leap-year indicator. Also, A light blue text for the leap year is further enhanced with the “L” symbol. While the month is advanced less frequently, the squeezed layout seems to sacrifice legibility for the sake of not including a separate leap year indicator. A minor gripe in an otherwise perfect package.

Sublime beating heart

Caliber 1120 QPSQ powers the watch. Thankfully, Vacheron put it on display. An exhibition case back provides a perfect view of this masterpiece. A 22-carat rotor fills the view of the Poinçon de Genève sealed movement that certifies it is manufactured within the Canton of Geneva.

Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton

For those wishing to have an uninhibited view from the dial and rotor, Vacheron also introduces the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton. The open-worked dial certainly demonstrates an extreme level of craft, trimming away metal while still maintaining structural rigidity. Furthermore, the rotor is also skeletonized to provide an unimpeded view of the 4.05mm Ultra-Thin movement. The brushed and polished surfaces of the Overseas’ exclusive design wonderfully frame the white and anthracite dial with touches of blue.

Will we ever see a slim stainless steel Overseas? Possibly not. The Ultra-Thin models from Vacheron Constantin tend to only be presented in precious metals. Partly, because of the refined complexity of the slim movement deserving an alluring case. But also, the increased mass of gold contributes to the “reassuringly heavy” factor. Especially necessary when the volume of metal is skimmed away for a slim profile.

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin with blue dial is available for €94,500 and the Skeleton is €130,000 . Also, both have a water resistance of 50 meters. See more on the Vacheron Constantin site here.