Our Favorite Nominated Watches From The GPHG 2024

Every year at the Théâtre du Léman in Geneva, the watch world comes together to celebrate the best horological creations it has to offer. This year marks the 24th GPHG awards ceremony, and many impressive timepieces are in the running. We looked at the nominated watches in the different categories and picked our favorites. Whether they will win the actual awards remains to be seen, but it’s always fun to find the ones that speak to us the most. While we agreed on many of our top picks, there was also a bit of friendly friction at times. Ultimately, we settled on a list of great watches that we feel could be worthy winners.

Every category during the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie De Genève (GPHG) awards ceremony has multiple good options, which is also why we didn’t immediately agree on the picks for this list. This is the beauty of the GPHG; it gives you a good idea of some of the amazing watches that came out in the past 12 months, regardless of which ones will go on to win the awards. While the list of nominated timepieces for the GPHG 2024 is a nice reminder, all the different entries give an even broader view of the fascinating timepieces that are out there. But let’s focus on our favorite nominees from most of this year’s categories and give our prediction for the overall winner of the year.

GPHG 2024 — Ladies’: Hermès Cut

Nominated watches: Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Night Tide, Chopard Alpine Eagle 33, Farbergé Colours of Love Rose Gold Rainbow Gemstone Watch, Hermès Cut, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Diamonds Set, Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Jour Nuit

We usually do not focus on ladies’ watches too much on Fratello, but we had the pleasure of experiencing the Hermès Cut up close. The watch is designed well enough to be a great ladies’ watch, but it’s also stylish enough to sit elegantly on a gentleman’s wrist. The 36mm Cut is a nice 10mm thick and measures 42mm from lug to lug, making it a perfect fit for women, of course, as well as men who enjoy “smaller” watches. On top of that, the Cut, with its remarkably placed crown, also has that typical Hermès style we love at Fratello.

Inside the case, you will find the caliber H1912 developed by Vaucher. It looks beautiful with the signature H-motif decoration. Hermès is often overlooked as a watch brand, but the Cut is a great reminder of what makes it so interesting, which is why it’s our pick.

GPHG 2024 — Ladies’ Complication: Trilobe The Exquisite Hour Secret – Unique Piece

Nominated watches: Andersen Genève Sakura Andersen Genève X BCHH, Chaumet Swing, Fabergé Compliquée Butterfly Blooms Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours Sakura, Trilobe The Exquisite Hour Secret – Unique Piece, Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Été

I was honestly a bit surprised to see the Trilobe Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise Secret nominated for this category. I covered the brilliant watch earlier this year, but in my memory, it wasn’t specifically a ladies’ watch. That said, the smaller 38.5mm version is indeed a great option for ladies. But more importantly, I was reminded of the brilliance of this piece. The watch combines a 38.5mm titanium case with a stunning star-lit night sky on a blue dial. The brilliant thing about the dial is that the buyer gets to choose the sky as seen from a specific location on a particular date. That makes this another stunning piece that is a Fratello favorite.

GPHG 2024 — Time Only: Bernard Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer

Nominated watches: Berneron Mirage Sienna, Bernhard Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer, Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier, Czapek Goutte d’eau, H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date

If you ask us, Bernhard Lederer should win the award in any category his watches are nominated for. The dial side of many of his watches is often an understated hint at the technical wizardry that unveils itself once you turn the watches around. But a glance at the dial of the Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer will tell you that there is something special about it. As Lederer explains it, “One of the standout features [of this watch] is the movement of the minute hand, which follows the rhythm of the remontoir d’égalité every 10 seconds. The minute hand’s movement is displayed on a unique scale divided into 6 steps, each representing 10 seconds, culminating in a full minute. A tiny pointer at the middle of the minute hand guides the reading of these 10-second intervals, perfectly synchronized with the remontoir’s rhythm.” Are you still with us?

Lederer’s Central Impulse Chronometer (CIC) movement is at the heart of this stunning piece, which first gets a COSC chronometer certification. However, in the next step, the brand chose to have its precision tested by the Observatory in Besançon, France, the Observatory in Glashütte, Germany, and the “Observatory Chronométrique” in Geneva, Switzerland. The triple certification is celebrated on the movement with the signatures of the three certificates. Additionally, the sub-seconds register located between 6 and 9 o’clock on the dial shows the coordinates of the three observatories engraved in three concentric decorative rings. And this small space only allows for a small part of the story of why this watch should win.

GPHG 2024 — Men’s: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Platinum

Nominated watches: Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Platinum, Garrick S3 MK2, Grand Seiko Manual-winding Hi-Beat 36000, Hajime Asaoka Tsunami “Art Deco,” Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde Platinum, Voutilainen KV20i Reversed

As you will understand, this category sparked a discussion. Ultimately, we agreed that the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde in platinum would get our vote. While some feel its 40.6mm diameter is too big, there was no debate about the craftsmanship and detail that went into creating this watch. The resurgence of the Toric name showcases that the refined minimalist design style we know from Tonda PF also works for the Toric. The knurled bezel and the stunning minimalist dial with incredible details are elements that we know.

However, the execution and the combination with a round case make for a brilliant new signature line of watches. And if you turn the platinum watch around, you can admire the hand-wound PF780 movement crafted out of gold and decorated with Côtes de Fleurier. All in all, the new Toric Petite Seconde in platinum shows that Parmigiani Fleurier is one of the brands to watch.

GPHG 2024 — Men’s Complication: Chopard L.U.C Strike One

Multiple members of the Fratello team adore the L.U.C Strike One. But other team members doubt the dial cutout at 1 o’clock. This unveils the hammer that strikes the edge of the watch’s sapphire crystal to create sound. The watch chimes 24 times daily upon the hour (sonnerie au passage). Chopard’s in-house micro-rotor caliber 96.32-L powers the watch and is a COSC-certified chronometer. The movement is housed in a 40mm white gold case that is only 9.86mm thick.

Chopard combined this case with a wonderful 18K white gold dial that has a galvanic treatment to get its signature green color. The dial features small seconds at 6 o’clock and a central portion with a hand-engraved guilloché pattern. One surprising detail is that the minute track is engraved into the underside of the sapphire crystal. All the beautifully created elements fit wonderfully well together. In our opinion, all this leads to an elegant watch that deserves the GPHG award.

GPHG 2024 — Iconic: Piaget Polo 79

Nominated watches: Breitling Navitimer B12 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute, Hublot Classic Fusion Original Yellow Gold 29mm, IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler, Louis Vuitton Tambour, Piaget Piaget Polo 79, Urwerk UR-102 Reloaded

We don’t have to explain this one, right? The resurgence of the full-gold Piaget Polo is one of the highlights of this year. The Piaget Polo 79 has a yellow gold case that is 38mm wide and 7.45mm thick. It is combined with a yellow gold bracelet that, like the case, features the characteristic horizontally engraved “gadroons.” The case is slim thanks to Piaget’s caliber 1200P1 inside.

This ultra-thin movement uses a micro-rotor and offers 44 hours of power reserve. Going from a quartz movement in the late ’70s and ’80s to a mechanical movement for the new Polo 79 is exactly what makes this release even better. The Piaget Polo 79 was our unanimous pick as the best in the Iconic category.

GPHG 2024 — Tourbillon: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription

Nominated watches: Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon, Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription, H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton, Rémy Cools Tourbillon Atelier, Sartory Billard SB06-24HM “La Nuit,” Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary

Choosing our top pick for the next category almost turned into a heated argument. Thomas and Lex are passionate supporters of the Rémy Cools Tourbillon Atelier. Nacho and yours truly are at least as passionate about the Daniel Roth Tourbillon. In that case, the author of this article gets to decide, right? Of course, I’m only kidding. But I am passionate about the return of Daniel Roth. We were treated to the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold during Geneva Watch Days. However, as you can see, that watch has not been nominated. Rather, it’s the yellow gold Tourbillon Souscription that debuted last year.

It marked the return of the Daniel Roth brand, and LVMH’s approach has been nothing but tasteful. The Tourbillon Souscription respects the original Daniel Roth case, measuring 35.5mm wide, 38.6mm long, and 9.2mm thick. But the designers have optimized the yellow gold case nicely. It is combined with a stunning Clous de Paris guilloché dial that reveals the DR001 caliber. The beautiful tourbillon features three hands of different lengths to correspond with the three 20-second arcs on the front of the watch. The back reveals a mix of manual finishes that is nothing short of impressive. The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription is a worthy winner for this category.

GPHG 2024 — Calendar & Astronomy: IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Nominated watches: Anton Suhanov Chronotope, Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Designed by Peter Speake, H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Chinese Calendar, Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar

The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar was another unanimous pick for this list. The fact that IWC was able to create a watch with a calendar that runs flawlessly until 3999 is bonkers. Plus, it has a moonphase indicator that, theoretically, only needs to be corrected after 45 million years! Yes, this watch is incredibly special. The Eternal Calendar has a four-digit year indicator, moonphase indicator at 12 o’clock, the date and power reserve at 3 o’clock, the month at 6 o’clock, and the running seconds and day indicator at 9 o’clock.

The in-house-developed caliber 52640 that makes it possible sits within a 44.4mm platinum case that is only 15mm thick. Considering how complex this watch is, those dimensions are spectacular. The case also houses a series of sapphire discs for the time and calendar functions. It gives the watch a very distinct and modern look. On top of that, you will immediately recognize that this watch is something special. But the true magic is in the remarkable eternal calendar movement that makes this an instant win for us.

GPHG 2024 — Mechanical Exception: Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé

Nominated watches: Bovet 1822 Récital 28 Prowess 1, Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé, MB&F HM11 Architect, Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad

This category is a bit of a weird one. All of the nominated watches stand out for different reasons. While the technical wizardry is impressive on all of them, a watch still needs to be attractive. The nature of the various complications also gives them a different appeal. The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC immediately stands out as the (former) thinnest mechanical watch in the world. While Konstantin Chaykin now holds the title, that doesn’t make Bvlgari’s achievement any less impressive. Another technically incredible piece is the MB&F HM11 Architect. As a concept, it would immediately get my vote. But its conceptual nature also stretches the visual concept of a beautiful wristwatch.

In the end, we settled on the Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé. It’s more proof that Hermès is not to be forgotten when it comes to mechanical wizardry. I am a big fan of the brand’s Arceau L’Heure de la Lune series. It showed a completely original way to display a moonphase and combined it with stunning materials. But this year’s Arceau Duc Attelé takes it to a whole other level. The watch combines a triple-axis tourbillon and a “tuning-fork” minute repeater with two horse-shaped hammers.

It fits the brand’s equestrian style flawlessly. The rather reserved combination of a black dial and a titanium case makes the watch look a lot less flashy than you might expect for a watch this technically stunning. That is also what makes it such a great pick compared to its peers. However, it must be said that there is also a rose gold version with a blue dial that has that more classic aesthetic. But the watch nominated and our pick is the titanium version of the Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé.

GPHG 2024 — Chronograph: Angelus Instrument de Vitesse

Nominated watches: Angelus Instrument de Vitesse, Louis Vuitton × Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie, Massena Lab Chronograph Monopoussoir Sylvain Pinaud x Massena Lab, Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Split Seconds Chronograph, TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph, Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar

The Angelus Instrument de Vitesse is a stunning classically inspired monopusher chronograph. The styling of this one-minute chronograph takes after instruments found on the dashboards of classic cars. As you can see, the dial features a single chronograph hand and a pusher integrated into the crown to start, stop, and reset it. Powering the watch is the hand-wound in-house A5000 caliber. With its intricate finishing, is a joy to see through the case back.

Angelus made only 25 pieces of each of the two colorways, and they quickly found their way to fans. While the watch might not be the visual and mechanical tour de force that some of the other nominated watches are, we love the classic looks of the Instrument de Vitesse together with the beautiful monopusher caliber. Sometimes, it’s not about the muscles but, rather, the wits combined with the elegance.

GPHG 2024 — Sports: Singer Reimagined Divetrack

Nominated watches: IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team, Ming 37.09 Bluefin, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph, Singer Reimagined Divetrack, Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition,” Zenith Defy Extreme Diver

The Singer Reimagined Divetrack was another immediate pick for us all. We have quite a few avid divers on the Fratello team who fell in love with the watch as soon as they saw it. This watch completely reimagines the classic diver’s timepiece as the ultimate diving tool. So leave behind your conventional thoughts about what a diving chronograph is because this is not merely a dive watch with a chronograph function to time events.

The Divetrack uses the basic concept of a chronograph to time your entire dive journey. That concept is breathtaking and all about Fly, Chill, and Dive. Do you want to know more? I suggest that you read Robert-Jan’s article about the theoretics of the watch.

But let’s not forget that Singer also has a signature style that makes this Divetrack instantly recognizable. The titanium case is a whopping 49mm in diameter and 19.67mm thick. Of course, that is huge, but remember: this is the ultimate diving tool, not a luxury watch that finds a spot under the cuff of your ironed shirt.

The massive case holds the stunning AgenGraphe 24-h Automatic Chronograph, which consists of 479 parts. It’s a proper piece of high horology that revolutionizes the world of mechanical dive watches. Yes, the CHF 85,000 price makes this a luxury watch. However, the idea behind it and the ingenious execution make it the best entry in the Sports category.

GPHG 2024 — Petite Aiguille: Kudoke 3 Salmon

Nominated watches: Amida Take Off Edition, Christiaan van der Klaauw Ariadne, Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase Date Manufacture seconde/seconde/, Furlan Marri Perpetual One, Kudoke 3 Salmon, Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

The Petite Aiguille award is for watches with a retail price between CHF 3,000 and CHF 10,000. We picked the Kudoke 3 Salmon, which is essentially a time-only watch. However, the way the watch shows the hours is rather nifty. Stefan Kudoke created a display with a central minute hand on top and a three-layered hour indicator below a stunning salmon upper dial. Three hands indicate the hour over three different scales. When one hand reaches the end of a scale, another hand appears at the beginning of the next one.

As you can see, hours 2, 6, and 10 are displayed twice at the beginning and the end of two scales. It is a fun, different way of displaying the time, leading to an interesting design we like a lot. Kudoke employed an ingenious solution by using the screws that connect the upper dial, lower dial, and the chapter ring to mark 10, 20, 40, and 50 minutes. The special construction sits within a 39mm case that is only 10.3mm thick and contains Kaliber 1, which makes all the mechanical magic possible. The Kudoke 3 Salmon would be a worthy winner in this category.

GPHG 2024 — Challenge: Otsuka Lotec No.6

Nominated watches: Beaubleu Seconde Française, Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase, Furlan Marri Disco Verde, Kollokium Projekt 01, Otsuka Lotec No.6, SpaceOne Tellurium

For the Challenge category that awards the best watch equal to or under CHF 3,000, we picked the No.6 from Otsuka Lotec. The independent Japanese brand founded by Jiro Katayama has quickly become a fan favorite. For his creations, Katayama takes inspiration from 20th-century gauges and instruments found in cars, trains, and planes. It’s not surprising that he studied automotive design and worked at Japanese car brands before his adventure into watches started. The No.6 is a great example of those design influences. The watch has a proper instrument-like aesthetic that resembles an air pressure gauge.

It all starts with a 42.6mm by 11.8mm case. It holds a Miyota 9015 with a module developed by Otsuka Lotec. Turning the watch around, you’ll see the dial is screwed onto the movement. This ensures the dial and bezel are aligned at the same height. The dial holds scales for the hours and minutes and a date window. The retrograde hour and minute hands are mounted on the same axis. As a result, the two hands both return to 0 upon reaching 12. Thanks to an ingenious construction, the returning of the hands is controlled to within 60 seconds, and a cam used for the hour hand controls the angle of the hour hand down to 0.1 degrees. Until now, the watches have only been available in Japan, but Thor revealed that Katayama plans to export his watches starting this year or next.

Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix: Louis Vuitton × Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie

Every year, there is also an overall winner that gets the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix. It is the best out of all the nominated watches. This year, we would love and expect the award to go to the exceptional LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie. This collaboration between Louis Vuitton and independent watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi has resulted in an absolutely stunning timepiece.

The double-faced chronograph is the first project that Louis Vuitton embarked on in a series of collaborations with independent watchmakers. Robert-Jan was present at the launch of this watch and was seriously impressed by the passion and craftsmanship that both Louis Vuitton and Rexhep Rexhepi put into it.

Not only is the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie a horological masterpiece, but the watch also incorporates stylistic details from both its collaborators. With the Tambour-inspired 39.5mm platinum case, the exquisitely crafted Rexhepi-style dials, and the phenomenal movement combining chronograph and sonnerie complications, this watch is a true work of art. Robert-Jan’s article will give a good insight into why this watch is more than just the sum of its parts. The story is exactly why it deserves the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix.

Final thoughts on our picks for the GPHG 2024 awards ceremony

There you have it — a long list of potential winners at next week’s GPHG 2024 awards ceremony. We will have to wait and see whether our picks will indeed come out on top. In the meantime, let us know your favorites in the comments section below. We will see you next week for a new list.