Ploprof Vs. Ploprof — A Double Hands-On With The 1200M Diver
The Seamaster Ploprof is partially famous for being on the wrist of FIAT boss Gianni Agnelli. Many think Agnelli wore his Ploprof over his cuff because he thought it was stylish, but it was actually because of his allergic reactions to metal on his skin.
Gianni Agnelli wearing his Omega Ploprof in St. Moritz back in 1979
Despite him doing this out of necessity, many have praised and copied Agnelli’s wearing style and still do, even today. I have never dared to do it (it just looks a bit weird), and I don’t suffer from any metal allergies either, so it’s not necessary.
Omega Seamaster 600 “Ploprof”
The Seamaster Ploprof
The Omega Seamaster 600 “Ploprof” (short for “Plongeur Professionnel,” meaning “Professional Diver”) officially debuted in February 1971 and became available on the market two months later. The last iteration of the Seamaster 600 came out in 1975 and remained for sale until the stock was gone (which, in those days, took longer than in today’s world). You can read more about the original Seamaster 600 here.
Omega’s introduction image of the Ploprof 1200M in 2009
The Seamaster Ploprof 1200M from 2009 till 2019
Fast-forward many years to 2009, and Omega introduced a new edition of the Ploprof. This time, it was water resistant to 1,200 meters and equipped with the brand’s then-newest in-house-developed caliber 8500. The watch shared the same odd design as the original Ploprof but did not have a monobloc case. Instead, Omega added an automatic helium escape valve.
Additionally, Omega replaced the red plastic bezel-locking pusher with a metal pusher and an orange anodized ring around it. This watch stayed in production from 2009 till 2019 and was also (at some point) available with a white dial and bezel. Later, Omega introduced the Ploprof in titanium in several variations, which are still available today.
The Seamaster Ploprof Summer Blue
In 2023, on the island of Mykonos, Omega introduced the Summer Blue collection of Seamasters. For the 75th anniversary of this line, Omega made a special blue edition of each of its Seamaster models, including a new Ploprof in stainless steel. It featured a slightly more compact O-megasteel case (read more about this alloy here) with a monobloc construction and a Master Chronometer movement inside. We covered the introduction of this new Ploprof here.
As an owner of a previous-generation stainless steel Ploprof 1200M, I decided to do a side-by-side comparison between these two dive watches.
Case dimensions
Several of my colleagues were incredibly excited to learn that the new Ploprof’s dimensions were closer to those of the original Seamaster 600 than the Ploprof 1200M. Well, surprise, it’s still a large watch. The case length (you can’t really speak of “lugs” with the Ploprof), was never a huge issue at 48mm.
Nevertheless, for the Summer Blue edition, Omega reduced it to 45mm. The diameter remains an impressive 55mm. However, the watch’s thickness has also been reduced for the Summer Blue edition from 17.5mm to 15.5mm.
Chunks of steel
Aside from the changes in dimensions, there are small changes to the finishing and shapes on some surfaces. If you look closely at the case profile, you will notice the semi-circular chamfers on the crown side.
On the other side, there’s also a small change in design. The surfaces appear to be a bit flatter, and the helium escape valve is positioned in the lug rather than on the case side. The shapes and finishing of the new Seamaster Ploprof Summer Blue are truer to the original Seamaster 600 Ploprof than the previous steel and titanium Ploprof 1200M iterations.
Neither of the case backs is similar to the original Ploprof, but the former steel model has a bit more ribbing. The new Summer Blue edition has a larger medallion with an engraved image of Poseidon on it. The case back of the previous-generation Ploprof 1200M can be screwed off (and on), which isn’t possible with the monobloc case of the Summer Blue edition.
The watch has become a bit friendlier on the wrist, relatively speaking, of course. The new Ploprof is, like its steel predecessor, also a beast. I don’t have a preference here, but I can imagine that those with a smaller wrist circumference (mine is 18cm) prefer the new “old” dimensions of the Summer Blue.
The crown
What has also changed is the way the crown works. The previous Ploprof 1200M has a bridge that goes over the crown and functions as a crown protector. When unscrewed and pulled out, the crown is still the component you then use to correct the time.
With the Ploprof Summer Blue edition, there are basically two crowns you can turn. The large inner crown is only for unscrewing the entire winding system. Then, you can use the outer crown to correct the time. When screwing it back in, you first must position the tabs on the outer crown correctly to “click” it into the crown protector. You can then use the large inner crown to screw it all back into place.
Although the system on the former steel Ploprof 1200M is a bit quicker and more intuitive, the new Summer Blue edition has a system similar to the original 1971 Ploprof. Plus, the Omega logo on the outer crown just looks good!
Dial
As the name suggests, the Ploprof Summer Blue edition has a blue (sun-brushed) dial, blue hands, a blue pusher for the bezel lock, and a sapphire-crystal bezel insert with a blue diving scale. It even comes on a blue ISOfrane-type rubber strap. The hour markers are a very light shade of blue instead of white, giving the face of the Ploprof a very blue hue.
Although the original 1971 Ploprof also had a blue dial, the Summer Blue dial has little to do with that due to the sun-brushed finishing and the lighter blue elements. Also, the famous orange hand had to make way for something blue. It’s also worth mentioning that this Ploprof Summer Blue does not have a date window, unlike the original Ploprof from the ’70s.
The stainless steel Ploprof 1200M (2009–2019) has a black dial with a glossy finish and metal-framed hour markers. It also has nothing in common with the original, but it gives the watch a bit more of a neutral look. Between 4 and 5 o’clock, you will find a date window, whereas this was originally positioned at 3 o’clock.
I have nothing much against a date at that position as it doesn’t interfere with the hour marker at 3 o’clock, but I prefer the Ploprof without a date. What this steel Ploprof 1200M does have is the large orange minute hand. In my opinion, this is a very distinctive feature of the Ploprof, but I also understand that it would not look good on the Summer Blue edition.
Strap and bracelet
When Omega introduced the Seamaster Ploprof 1200M in 2009, the advertising materials showed it on an orange rubber strap. It was available with that orange rubber strap, a black rubber strap, and a stainless steel “shark mesh” bracelet. I purchased mine with the stainless steel bracelet and added the orange and black rubber straps later on.
I use the mesh bracelet most often despite it increasing the weight to nearly 280 grams (with all the links). And let me tell you, that’s heavy. I don’t mind a hefty watch and even prefer one over very lightweight watches, but I can imagine it is not for everyone.
The Ploprof Summer Blue edition is only available on the blue rubber ISOfrane-style strap and weighs 183 grams (according to our office scale.) The strap is quite soft and comfortable on the wrist. I decided to try the mesh bracelet from my Ploprof 1200M, which would fit the Summer Blue, and it did, so there you go. You can try to source one for your Summer Blue. Just keep in mind that it’s a different grade of steel.
Despite the impressive weight of the Ploprof on a bracelet, I prefer to wear it that way. Omega’s Ploprof bracelet is incredibly well made and has an easy extension system and an additional diver’s extension to wear over your neoprene suit.
Caliber 8500
Movements
After several decades of using modified ETA calibers, with and without the (1999) Co-Axial escapement, Omega introduced its first in-house-developed movement in 2007. Having first powered the De Ville Hour Vision, it quickly found its way to other watches as well, such as the steel Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M. It has a silicon balance spring, two barrels for 60 hours of power reserve, and a 25,200vph operating frequency. The movement was also certified by COSC as a chronometer.
In 2015, Omega introduced the 8900 (date) and 8912 (no-date) movements, which were based on the caliber 8500. The 8912 powers the titanium Ploprof 1200M models but also found its way into the 2023 Ploprof Summer Blue edition. This movement uses more antimagnetic components and ensures the watch is resistant to 15,000 gauss. The Ploprof Summer Blue is Master Chronometer certified by METAS, which includes the regular COSC certification as well.
Needless to say, I have a preference for the 8912 movement. It’s an upgrade of the 8500, and the Master Chronometer certification adds some reassurance. In addition to antimagnetism, the METAS Master Chronometer certification also covers the watch’s water resistance (with an additional 10% margin during the test), power reserve, and performance of the movement between 33% and 100% of the power reserve.
Availability and pricing
The last known retail price of the Seamaster Ploprof 1200M in stainless steel was €8,100 in 2019. And for that, you’d get a lot of wristwatch. The current price of the titanium Ploprof 1200M series is €12,000 / CHF 12,400. For the Summer Blue edition, the use of new movements and materials (O-Megasteel) comes at a premium, of course, and then there’s the strong Swiss franc that we’re suffering from now. These result in a retail price of €15,800 / CHF 13,500 for the Ploprof Summer Blue.
As for availability, Omega discontinued the steel Ploprof 1200M ref. 224.30.55.21.01.001 in 2019, so it is now only available through the pre-owned market. The asking prices are above the last known retail price, and on Chrono24, we them between €8,000 and €10,000 in good condition. Interestingly enough, at the time of publishing this article, only a dozen or so are on offer.
Deliveries of the new Ploprof 1200M Summer Blue ref. 227.32.55.21.03.001 are slowly taking place for those on the waiting list, so it might take a while before we see them on display in the boutiques.
The new Ploprof Summer Blue edition reignited interest in this iconic diver from Omega. It being closer in size to the original than my previous edition made me slightly envious, to be honest. I am not so much bothered by the slightly larger case thickness and width of the previous steel Ploprof 1200M, but the mentioned (subtle) design changes and monobloc case are things I love about the new Ploprof.
You can find more information on the Ploprof here:
- Hands-on with the original Seamaster 600 Ploprof (2017)
- Hands-on with the Ploprof 1200M (2020)
- A collector’s story on his father’s Ploprof 600M (2020)
- Video: The Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M And Why You Need One (2021)
- Introduction to the new Ploprof Summer Blue (2023)
What are your thoughts on these Ploprof 1200M watches? Let me know in the comments below.
