Pre-Owned Picks – A Rolex, Tudor, Cartier, Omega and Grand Seiko

This is the second installment of the Pre-Owned Picks series. In this weekly Pre-Owned Picks series, a Fratello editor will select some watches from the pre-owned market and explain why it is an exciting offer (or watch).

As you could read in our first Pre-Owned Picks article in collaboration with Chrono24, the pre-owned market is enormous. And logically, it is only going to grow as more people will buy and sell their watches. Every week we will select a few pre-owned watches from their offers and discuss them here. Basically, for this week’s episode, I picked a few watches that are either always on my radar or watches that are on my wishlist. Without further ado, let’s have a look at this week’s pre-owned picks.

Pre-Owned Picks of Week 49

This week’s selection contains one watch that I already own, but I feel it is an exciting watch to mention because of this week’s event in New York City with Daniel Craig. I am talking, of course, about the Omega Seamaster 300M. In this case, the first reference that came out in 1993 and used in some of the 1990s Bond movies (click here). Then, there’s another watch of which I own a different version, but basically the same watch: the Rolex Datejust in 36mm. A classic and I would like to highlight it for various reasons (more below). Then, I selected a Cartier Santos, a Tudor Black Bay 58, and a Grand Seiko Spring Drive. Let’s start with the Rolex.

Rolex Datejust 16030 (€3499)

One of the most popular watches of all time. Then it was neglected for a while due to the huge interest in Rolex’s sports watches, and recently we see an increase in interest (and price) on these 36mm Datejusts. The Rolex Datejust was my first Rolex and I got it in 2002. It was actually a present for my graduation at the time, and I have worn it on a daily base for quite some time. It is an easy-going watch, meaning that it goes with everything in my wardrobe and almost on any occasion. I think the Datejust was a bit on the background due to the increased interest in Rolex sports watches, such as the Submariner and GMT-Master, for example, which also might have to do something with size. From 2000 onwards, sizes of watches increased rapidly and at some point, even 48mm wasn’t frowned upon anymore. Instead, people frowned upon everything below 40mm, it seems. I think those days are over, or perhaps I just reached a certain age where you don’t care anymore what other people think. But I don’t think that’s the main reason. Guys like Jasper Lijfering from Amsterdam Vintage Watches put so much time and effort in making 36mm Datejusts cool again, that they indeed are just that. Cool (again). This reference 16030 dates back to 1982 and would make an excellent birthday present for your 37th birthday (or next year’s 38th ;)). It has the engine turned bezel, a bezel configuration that has been discontinued for a few years. The currently available bezels are the smooth bezel and the fluted bezel, the latter being in (white) gold. If you prefer to have the look of the reference 16200 (smooth bezel) or 16234 (fluted), you can always try sourcing a spare bezel. It is relatively easy to swap yourself, but perhaps it is better to leave that to a watchmaker. In any case, this 1982 version has a price tag of €3499, and you can probably find them cheaper, but this one is in excellent condition. It comes on a Jubilee bracelet. According to the seller, it has been serviced in August 2019. Click here for the offer on this Rolex Datejust 16030.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight (€3200)

This is a very recent watch, but it is pre-owned. Even though a new Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight on the riveted bracelet has a retail price of €3430 (including VAT), the availability is not that good (yet). Whether it is its popularity or just limited production, I don’t know. However, if you don’t want to wait, or pay over retail at some grey market dealer, you can also decide to purchase one in pre-owned condition that is almost as good as a new one, condition-wise. Here, there’s a 2018 piece that appears to be in great condition, with box and papers, from a private seller located in Spain. The price is just below retail, but perhaps you can negotiate a bit (according to the seller, there’s some sign of wear on the lower left lug). The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight is my favorite Tudor watch so far, and I think they did a great job on the size and design. It is their perfect Black Bay, in my opinion, and perhaps if I would own any of the other Black Bay models, I’d sell it to get a Fifty-Eight. The matt dial is beautifully done, with the gilt hour markers and hands, but what makes it so perfect is the case size of 39mm. Inside, you will find Tudor’s in-house caliber MT5402 movement with 70 hours of power reserve. Click here for the offer on this Tudor Black Bay 58.

Cartier Santos Galbée XL (€4400)

I have a weak spot for the Cartier Santos, and if I were ready to buy one, it would be this Galbée XL in bi-color. The original 1978 Santos in bi-color is a bit too small for me, but this Santos Galbée XL is the perfect solution for that. This rectangular-shaped Cartier measures 32mm x 45mm, so it will fit most men for sure. The bracelet has an iconic status in my book, with the screws and almost seamless integration with the Santos case. These models can also be had in stainless steel or full gold, but to me, this particular model belongs in bi-color somehow. Perhaps because of the contrast caused by the yellow gold on steel. Cartier surely likes their Roman numerals, also on this watch they are consuming a large part of the dial. At 4.30, there’s a date aperture. If I am not mistaken, this watch is powered by the ETA2892-A2 movement, as it was produced long before Cartier started using their range of in-house movements in the watches that weren’t part of their high-end models (Collection Privée). This movement has a great track record though and can be serviced by any skilled watchmaker. In 2018, Cartier re-introduced the Santos (after disappearing from the market for a brief period), with an in-house movement. You can read about those, here. However, Cartier changed the design of the bezel on the new Santos, making me want the Santos Galbée XL like this one from 2010 even more. The design is just cleaner, in my opinion. And the price of a pre-owned bi-color Santos Galbée XL is more attractive, of course. This 2010 Santos Galbée XL comes with box and papers and in good and unpolished condition. Click here for the offer on this Cartier Santos Galbée XL.

Omega Seamaster 300M 2531.80 (€2478)

Yes, the price shocked me too! I had many of these watches, and the first one I purchased back in 2000. After working a Summer long at this publishing house (Elsevier) as a student, I was able to buy a new Seamaster 300M 2531.80. Back in those days, it retailed for approximately 1600 Euro. I sold it at some point, bought another one, sold it again, etc. This happened a few times, and only in 2018, I decided to buy one back (again) and keep it. I think I paid about 1800 Euro for a full-set pre-owned one from 2003 or 2004. Selecting the watches for this week’s Pre-Owned Picks selection, it actually surprised (or shocked) me to see how the prices on these watches have increased in the past 1-2 years. Below 2000 Euro was already a bit challenging, but for a decent looking 2531.80 with box and papers, we are moving towards €2500. I have the feeling that there are many of these 2531.80 out there, but just not for sale. Omega must have produced tens of thousands of them since 1993 and very often I see them on the wrists of fellow passengers on board of a plane or at the swimming pool during holidays (mainly worn by English, somehow). The one I have here is probably one of the last produced, as it has the newer cards and serial number range, which makes it an interesting purchase. I don’t think I need to spend a lot of words on this watch, as we covered it more than once here (for example in this article). With the new Seamaster 300M range (here) and the new Bond edition of this watch that was unveiled last Wednesday, you will be amazed by how thin this ‘old’ 2531.80 actually is. Powered by Omega’s caliber 1120, based on the ETA2892-A2 just like the Santos Galbée above, Omega managed to keep this watch quite thin. From the top of my mind, it is approx 10mm thick (or thin). It is a very comfortable watch for sure, and although I started to dislike the 9-row bracelet for a while since it is back in my collection, I started to appreciate it again, It wears super comfortable, although it might come across a bit too 1990s for some. Click here for the offer on this Omega Seamaster 300M.

Grand Seiko Snowflake ‘Boutique Edition’ SBGA059 (€3700)

It is no secret that I like Grand Seikos and that I’ve been pondering whether I should get a Snowflake or a Mt. Iwate model. I went for the latter in the end, but the Snowflake remains to be on my radar. And a Spring Drive movement continues to be on my radar as well. This SBGA059 is a model that is from the pre-Grand Seiko only writing on the dial. I understand that this sentence is confusing and perhaps not entirely correct, as well. What I meant is that before Seiko decided to have Grand Seiko as a separate entity, there was ‘Seiko’ as well as ‘Grand Seiko’ on the dials of these watches. Only in 2017, they decided to make a new legal entity for Grand Seiko and only have the watches carry that name on the dial. It does allow you to find a cool Grand Seiko from previous years for an attractive price, and these are basically the same watches, aside from the absence of ‘Seiko’ on the dial. This SBGA059 was a 2013 boutique edition and a variation on the famous SBGA011 (Snowflake), now SBGA211. It has the same Spring Drive movement, the same titanium case, and bracelet, but a slightly different dial. The hour markers and hands are made of yellow gold, bringing some more contrast to the game. Where the Grand Seiko Snowflake SBGA211 has a retail price of €6000,-, this 2013 pre-owned boutique edition can be had for €3700,-. Now, there are two downsides here. One, the watch doesn’t have the original papers anymore, but if you decide to just use it as a daily wearer, I am not sure whether this is of importance to you. Two, the watch is located at a dealer in Japan, so you might have to deal with customs. However, you can sort out how to get this watch across the border and what the costs will be of that. For this price, it might be worth the additional cost of importing it into your country. If you are a regular traveler to Tokyo or know someone who does, there’s always the possibility to pick it up in person. Click here for the offer on this Grand Seiko Snowflake.

As always, with pre-owned watches, make sure to do your (own) homework. Also, feel free to make an offer on these watches (remember: these are asking prices) and discuss the warranty the seller can provide. Chrono24 offers its Trusted Checkout system, so you have proper buyer protection (more here). That said, always do your homework nevertheless. It can prevent you from a lot of frustration and ‘stuff’ you don’t want to have to deal with.