Pre-Owned Spotlight: Shopping For A Deliciously High-End Chronograph
It has been a while since I published a Pre-Owned Spotlight, so I figured I should return in style with watches I can only dream of owning and wearing. Today, I will go on a pretend shopping spree for a pre-owned, high-end chronograph. Do I need a pre-owned, high-end chronograph? Yes, I do, thank you very much. Hear me out: I have a deep passion for pizza, and I cannot see the oven’s timer from where I sit on the couch. I honestly don’t have a clue how I could solve this terrible conundrum without a Haute Horlogerie chronograph.
So, with that justification out of the way — my wife doesn’t buy it… — let’s explore three fantastic chronographs that would surely get the job done.
Image: European Watch Company
High-end chronograph #1: Patek Philippe ref. 5170G-001
When I think of a high-end chronograph, the words “Patek” and “Philippe” always spontaneously pop into my head. And that’s for good reason, too, as the company has made some amazing chronographs throughout its rich history. My pick for today is a relatively young one from 2014. Why? Well, I think Haute Horlogerie chronograph calibers are the prettiest around, so I would like to have a display case back on mine, which pushes me into younger references.
I picked a 5170G-001 that’s currently on sale in the States for US$52,500 (roughly €49,225). To me, this reference represents the very best of Patek chronographs. For starters, it was the first men’s watch to feature the new fully in-house caliber CH 29-535 PS, in 2010, after a period of using Lemania-based calibers. The spec sheet reveals a 65-hour power reserve and, of course, a column-wheel mechanism. The white gold case measures 39.4mm across, which is okay for a modern chronograph.
Image: European Watch Company
I am not ashamed to admit I fall for looks first when shopping for watches. This is where this 5170 hits all the right spots with me. It is rudimentary and Spartan in a way that reminds me of pre-WWII Patek chronos. I am not usually a fan of Breguet numerals, but here, they are the only slightly groovy element in an otherwise stark design. They just work. My one gripe is the typography. Both the serif and sans-serif fonts don’t quite do it for me. The fact that there are three numeral styles doesn’t help. Otherwise, this is quite close to perfection in my book.
Image: Amsterdam Watch Company
High-end chronograph #2: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph ref. 414.032
My second pick for a pre-owned high-end chronograph is very similar to the Patek in many ways. The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 shares almost the same diameter and an in-house hand-wound caliber. It, too, features sub-dials below the center line. However, I don’t think you will confuse these two anytime soon because each is so aesthetically characteristic of its maker.
Image: Amsterdam Watch Company
The 1815 features a much busier dial that is, at the same time, more cohesive. The word that springs to mind is “stern.” There is a seriousness to this dial that feels very deliberate and assertive to me. Frankly, I am clumsily looking for words to say I find it absolutely beautiful.
Image: Amsterdam Watch Company
This applies possibly even more to the view through the case back. Hand-wound high-end chronograph calibers tend to be pretty, but this is on another level. The German silver, the finishing, the depth, and the swirly bridges are awe-inspiring. Macro photos of the caliber look like a steampunk cityscape. My old friends at Amsterdam Watch Company are offering this 2021 full set in mint condition for €62,500.
Image: Tokant
High-end chronograph #3: Breguet Classique ref. 3237
On to my final candidate for my high-end chronograph pizza timer. This is the most classical and oldest on my list, although it is still nowhere near vintage. This is a Breguet Classique Chronograph ref. 3237 from 1995. This candidate costs a bit less at €25,990 for a full set from a French seller.
Image: Tokant
The 18K yellow gold case measures 36mm across by 10.9mm thick. Please read the previous sentence again, every modern watch brand. Inside ticks the Lemania-based, Breguet-finished caliber 2320.
Image: Tokant
This Breguet’s dial is no less characteristic or instantly recognizable than the Lange 1815’s. You get all the classical Breguet elements, from the heat-blued handset to the guilloché dial and the black Roman numerals. What strikes me most is the beautiful symmetry paired with the lush textures of the guilloché surfaces. Unlike the Patek and Lange, the Breguet features in-line sub-dials, with the Breguet signature and serial number serving as optical vertical counterweights.
Image: Amsterdam Watch Company
Picking a winner
Okay, so how will I spend my money if I am going to solve my pizza-timing difficulties once and for all? Frankly, although I would be happy with any of these, I have a clear winner. My pick for the ultimate pre-owned high-end chronograph would be the A. Lange & Söhne 1815. That watch just sings to me. It attracts me on a visceral level. It is one of my all-time grail watches.
Image: Amsterdam Watch Company
I am, admittedly, still struggling budget-wise. I may have a clever solution, though. What if I just take the money from my pizza budget? What if I just eat whatever I find lying in the fridge until I have saved up for the 1815? Let me quickly do the math. I usually have — and I am not proud of this — two pizzas a week. They cost me, say, €10 each. So, at an average €20 per week, I would only have to skip my pizzas for…eh…60 years. Argh. There may be holes in my plan.
Which would be your pick out of these pre-owned, high-end chronograph options? Let us know in the comments below!
Featured image: European Watch Company
