Pre-Owned Spotlight: Two Neo-Vintage Watches And One Proper Vintage Watch From Rolex, Daniel Roth, And Longines
The demand for watches from the 1990s is increasing, it seems. It used to be a well-kept secret that you could still get some nice (and complete) watches from the 1990s, but now there’s a shift occurring with a focus on that era. This is not only true when it comes to full sets (boxes and papers) but also some very specific designs that were made in the 1990s. Another important factor is the very modest case sizes that were prevalent back then.
Our friends over at Revolution already showed some trust in the 1990s by reintroducing a trio of Franck Muller chronographs from the decade. But I’ve also advocated for the Omega Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch” models from the 1990s because those still have tritium hands and hour markers (often with a nice, yellowish color) and often come with the original box and papers. So in this installment of Pre-Owned Spotlight, I will share two 1990s neo-vintage watches that I’ve found. The third watch is a vintage Longines model that is currently on offer from the brand itself. That’s right; Longines silently (or I missed a press release somewhere) introduced its Collector’s Corner. In it, the brand offers vintage watches that have all been checked and serviced by the Heritage Workshop at Longines HQ in St. Imier, Switzerland.
Daniel Roth 207/J1 — Image courtesy of Watch Club
Daniel Roth Seconds at 6 O’Clock from 1995
Do you remember my Pre-Owned Spotlight article from last week in which I focused on several Breguet watches? This Daniel Roth must look somewhat similar to those designs, not in the last place because of its hand-engine-turned dial with a “pinstripe guilloché” pattern. Roth had been working on Breguet watches before he started his watchmaking company (which was sold in 2000 to Bvlgari). In 1995, he created this wonderful “Seconds at 6 O’Clock” watch. It has an 18K gold double-ellipse case, a beautiful hand-finished dial, and blued hands. The case measures 31mm in width and 35mm in length, and inside we find a Lemania-based caliber 1918.
Daniel Roth 207/J1 — Image courtesy of Watch Club
This Daniel Roth reference 207/J1 has “Numero 18” engraved in the case and the movement’s winding rotor. It indicates an early production for this watch, which dates to 1995. Watch Club in London is offering this Daniel Roth “Seconds At 6 O’Clock” watch for £15,995. You can find the offer at Watch Club here.
Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 — Image courtesy of Cologne Watch Company
Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 from 1996
Another watch from the same period is this Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 16600. I’ve written here before that the five-digit Sea-Dweller is a bit of an undervalued gem. You can still find examples for around €10,000, and in my opinion, they offer more bang for the buck than the Submariner 14060 from the same era. This Sea-Dweller reference was in production from 1988 to 2008, and just like its predecessor, the 16660, it is the perfect sports Rolex to me. It’s a bit bulkier than the Submariner but also has “higher” specifications. The neo-vintage models from the 1990s (before 1998) also have a tritium dial and hands.
Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 with automatic helium valve — Image courtesy of Cologne Watch Company
This particular Sea-Dweller is on offer from Cologne, Germany, and according to the seller, it is in very good condition. It doesn’t come with a box or papers, but the price is also very competitive at €10,490. We’ve covered this watch so often that it shouldn’t need any further introduction (but if want some, click here). You can find the offer for this watch here.
Longines Conquest — Image courtesy of Longines
Longines Conquest from 1973
As I mentioned in the introduction of this article, Longines started selling vintage watches directly. On the brand’s website, you can navigate to the Watch Collector’s corner, and you’ll get an overview of the vintage watches that are available. All vintage pieces that Longines offers have been serviced and checked by the brand’s Heritage Workshop in St. Imier, Switzerland. I’ve visited this department on multiple occasions — most recently, a few weeks ago — and it’s quite spectacular. Longines has an incredible archive of parts for vintage watches, so the brand’s watchmakers can restore nearly any Longines vintage model. The listing on the website indicates the originality of parts (such as the dial) and states that it comes with a certificate of authenticity.
This automatic Longines Conquest dates back to 1973 and comes with the original dial. The case measures 35.5mm in diameter and has the Longines caliber 294 inside. The brand provides a 24-month warranty on this watch and is offering it for CHF 2,975. You can find the offer here.
Let me know what you think of neo-vintage watches. Are they the next big thing for collectors? And what are your thoughts about watch brands offering vintage watches? Are you comfortable buying from brands offering these? Leave your comments below.
