Pre-Owned Spotlight: Vintage Rolex Datejust Offerings I Can’t Refuse
It has been a few years since I wrote The Vintage Rolex Datejust Buyer’s & Collector’s Guide. In fact, I no longer sell the book, and it is a closed chapter of my life. Still, the mighty DJ remains a major soft spot for me. So when Nacho asked me to write a Pre-Owned Spotlight article on vintage Datejust offerings, I jumped at the opportunity.
A vintage Rolex Datejust is still one of the best watches one can buy. They have stood the test of time and pair a reliable build with universal elegance. At the same time, they have come down in price, making them a very compelling offering. Today, I want to share three vintage examples in different styles and different segments. Two might prove my point about compelling offerings. The other…well…that just shows what’s possible if you dream big. Let’s start with that one!
Image: WatchWorks Haarlem
Pre-owned vintage Rolex Datejust #1: Ref. 16248 “Bark Onyx”
This banger is a 16248 from 1990. This means you get a sapphire crystal and caliber 3135 with a quickset date. But who cares? Just look at the bark finish on the Jubilee’s center links and the bezel. Look at the natural onyx dial. Not enough? Look at the diamonds in the applied numerals. Although the watch is 35 years old, the surfaces are absolutely pristine. Call me mesmerized!
I particularly love the combination of the bark finish and the onyx dial. The smooth, high-gloss surface of the onyx fares well off of the contrast of the rough, textured bark. Both surfaces are emphasized and allowed to shine even more this way.
Gold Datejusts always spoke to me. Remember, the Datejust was Rolex’s flagship until the Day-Date debuted. Executions like this show that it doesn’t stand in its brother’s shadow but is still one of the most desirable watches. I found this example in the Netherlands, offered for €30,950.
Image: Watch24online
Pre-owned vintage Rolex Datejust #2: Ref. 16014 “Buckley”
Okay, the first one was perhaps a bit exotic. If you are in the market for a more basic vintage Rolex Datejust, here’s an interesting one. This is a 1978 ref. 16014. For the reference geeks out there, that means you get the combination of an acrylic crystal and a quickset-date movement. It also means you get a stainless steel case and bracelet with a white gold fluted bezel.
Image: Watch24online
All of that is pretty standard. But this vintage Rolex Datejust features a rather Cartier-esque dial. The matte white backdrop features painted Roman numerals, providing this DJ with a more formal and classical appearance. The style derives its nickname from collector and dealer John Buckley.
I found this example from a dealer in, again, the Netherlands. It isn’t perfect. The lugs have some of that tapering from wear and refinishing. However, pretty much all vintage Datejusts do, so I wouldn’t worry too much. I would, however, put a new crystal on it. The listing mentions the watch was checked by the seller’s watchmakers. Paired with the poor crystal, I’d say the safe bet is to add a full service to the €4,850 price.
Image: 10 over 10
Pre-owned vintage Rolex Datejust #3: Ref. 16234 “Tapestry”
So, what if you like the vintage look but want modern build quality? Well, look no further than this Datejust ref. 16234. Technically, this watch shares a lot with the Bark Onyx model above. They share, after all, the same generation and the same caliber 3135. However, this more pared-down version probably has a greater appeal for daily wear.
I remain on home turf, with another Dutch dealer offering this one for €6,350. What stands out to me is the condition of the steel case and white gold bezel. They appear unpolished to me, which is always great.
However, the dial steals the show. The so-called Tapestry dial provides 1980s vibes in spades without looking overpowering or dated. The clear lacquer on Tapestry dials tends to discolor over time. This one took on a lovely champagne hue. It is not the cheapest on the market, but it is a very capable and appealing GADA (go anywhere, do anything) offering.
Image: Watchworks Haarlem
Vintage Rolex Datejust appeal
There you have it — three compelling vintage Rolex Datejust offerings that would be hard to resist for me if I were in the market. When I left the vintage trading business a few years back, a basic Datejust would easily command €7,000 here in the Netherlands. Today, you can find them starting around €4,000. If I compare this to similarly priced new watches, a vintage Rolex Datejust presents itself as a very competitive offering. It pairs an iconic design with easy serviceability and a reliable, rugged build.
I reckon I’d better stop writing now, or I will convince myself to get back into it…
What is your favorite reference/variant of vintage Rolex Datejust? Let us know in the comments below!
Header image: WatchWorks Haarlem
