Quench Your Thirst On The First Day Of Dry January With Two Rolex GMT-Master II “Root Beer” Models
Talk about acquired taste. Root beer sure is. Its peculiar flavor comes from the sassafras tree. I like it, but others think it tastes like rusty water. The Rolex GMT-Master (II) “Root Beer” is like that too; you either love it or don’t. I’ve always been a fan of the watch. Although I’m usually not a fan of brown watches, the soft, creamy, dark goodness that defines the Root Beer is completely to my taste. But what flavor, exactly? Is it the vintage GMT-Master ref. 1675/3 in steel and yellow gold with an acrylic crystal and tritium lume? Or is it the current GMT-Master II with pink gold and a ceramic bezel insert?
In the current Rolex catalog, you will not find not one but two watches with the “Root Beer” nickname. There’s the €43,900 all-Everose GMT-Master II ref. 126715CHNR and the €17,500 pink gold and steel (Everose Rolesor) ref. 126711CHNR — the “Root Beer” and the “Root Beer Lite,” if you will. The two-tone diet version is historically the most accurate but also very different from the vintage GMT-Master 1675/3 that debuted in 1970. The original watch came in yellow gold, featured a dark brown dial, and came on a Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. A GMT-Master with a brown bezel is often mistakenly called a Root Beer, but only the models with a brown-and-cream-colored bezel are veritable Root Beers. By the way, actor/director Clint Eastwood wore the watch a lot, giving it the nickname of the Hollywood star on top of the soda-related one.
Dry January starts with two Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer models
Rolex produced the GMT-Master ref. 1675/3 until 1979. Then, in 1980, the brand replaced it with the ref. 16753 (no slash) featuring a new movement with a quick-set date. Next came the GMT-Master II ref. 16713, which was in production from 1989 until 2006. Finally, in 2018, Rolex released the full-gold 126715CHNR and the two-tone 126711CHNR. Due to their black and brown bezels, they got the nickname Root Beer. I understand why, but it’s wrong — not just because they don’t have a brown-and-cream-colored bezel but also because the dial is black instead of brown. Rolex’s current GMT-Master II Root Beer references also use the brand’s signature pink Everose gold instead of more classic yellow gold.
The fabulous build quality immediately stands out when you pick up the modern Root Beer wannabees. These watches are solid and soft to the touch thanks to the impeccable finishing, and they immediately feel right at home on the wrist. Both references are fantastic — dare I say “iconic” — because of the pedigree. And by that, I mean the whole Pan Am backstory and the link with the historic Root Beer.
The quirk is gone
I could continue to rave about the Oyster bracelet, the adjustable clasp, and everything else, but I won’t because you’ve read it all before. I’ll get right to it. I don’t get any Root Beer vibes with either of these two watches. The 40mm case diameter coupled with the ceramic bezel and the Oyster bracelet — no Jubilee bracelet is available — is too buff, polished, and slick. Both models are handsome in an underwear-model way — they show their goodness just a bit too eagerly. But these new versions seem to have lost the quirky country-club charm and slight twist of dandyism of the original. The new versions are too intimidating, whereas the 1970s watch, in particular, is entrancing. Yes, the new watch is better, but the old one is cooler, and that’s best.
Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer watch of the future
After handling the two opulent GMT-Master IIs and looking at their ancestors, I can’t help but fantasize about Rolex serving up a real Root Beer at Watches and Wonders 2025. I’m envisioning a steel and yellow gold watch on either a two-tone Oyster or, preferably, a Jubilee bracelet with a deep, dark, and radiant brown dial and a ceramic bezel in maroon and cream. There won’t be a full-gold version, just the two-tone like the original. Rolex put the GMT-Master II “Pepsi” back on the menu, so the brand can also serve up a real/right Root Beer again.
If you’re not into the current Root Beer flavor and don’t want to wait until Watches and Wonders in April to see what’s coming, you can always order a vintage Root Beer on Chrono24. While the original ref. 1675/3 will be the most expensive, a vintage yet very fizzy ref. 16753 will set you back €10K–13K. You’ll pay around the same for a younger Root Beer ref. 16713 too. There’s also a “lower-shelf alternative” if you know what I mean. The Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G not only has that peculiar dark, soft, and creamy look, but its design also stays closer to the original sweet taste of the first generations of Root Beers. Let me know your favorite flavor in the comments section.
