Believe it or not, it has already been 11 years since Ressence introduced its oil-filled Type 3. At the time, it was the first oil-filled mechanical watch, and it debuted in both white- and black-dial versions. Today, the Belgian brand led by designer Benoît Mintiens reintroduces the black and white Type 3 with a few subtle but crucial changes. Along with this update to Ressence’s regular collection, the brand also unveils a unique piece of the Type 1² with artwork by British visual artist Shantell Martin.

If there’s one thing we learned from Benoît Mintiens’ appearance on our Fratello Talks podcast series, it’s that he has a very particular idea of what a watch should look like. Starting from the wearer’s perspective, he tries to design the most user-friendly watch possible. This means comfort and readability are very important pillars within his design philosophy. Especially regarding the latter, the black- and white-dial versions of the Ressence Type 3 have received quite a significant update. I’ll first go into detail with you about the new Type 3, and then I’ll briefly talk about the unique Type 1² SHA in collaboration with Shantell Martin.

The updated Ressence Type 3

Ressence’s oil-filled Type 3 was revolutionary when it debuted. But still now, 11 years later, it’s one of the most mesmerizing dials to look at. Because of its construction, it almost feels like you’re looking at a digital screen. This effect is most apparent in the variants with a more monochrome look, like the early black and white versions. But if you really want to get the best experience, then make sure to pick the black one. With that, you almost can’t see the edges of the various sub-registers on the convex main dial. It seems just as if they’re all floating around each other in a never-ending black hole.

If these watches were already that good 11 years ago, then why update them? Well, at the time, Ressence’s custom typeface wasn’t finished yet. Both the new black and white versions of the Type 3 now feature the brand’s proprietary rounded typeface. The difference is in the details here, but if you look closely at the numerals on the simplified hour dial, you’ll certainly notice it. Also, the colors that indicate the date, weekend days, and the oil temperature are now slightly less saturated and more pastel-like. If anything, they cause a bit little distraction from the rest of the dial. The final update isn’t visible. It concerns a redesign of the watch’s shock absorber, which improves shock resistance.

Type 3 white close up

Still as impressive as always

Other than that, the new black and white Type 3 models are still the impressive watches they’ve always been. Both the dial and the 44mm mid-case are Grade 5 titanium. They sit sandwiched between two double-domed sapphire crystals with antireflective coating. The case back also functions as the crown. Don’t worry if you’re familiar with using it because it comes with instructions. The top and bottom of the watch are completely separate from each other because the oil around the dial shouldn’t touch with the movement.

Type 3 black close up

That’s why the movement includes precisely placed magnets to set the dial in motion. If that’s not impressive enough, the oil-filled chamber also features a set of bellows. These compensate for the changes in volume that the oil experiences due to higher or lower temperatures. An ETA 2824-2 automatic movement powers the Type 3, but it is a highly modified version that features 47 jewels. It still runs at a 4Hz frequency and holds a power reserve of approximately 36 hours. The Type 3 Black comes on a black leather strap, while the Type 3 White comes on a silver-gray sailcloth-type strap. The price is set to €38,200.

The Ressence × Shantell Martin Type 1² SHA

In addition to the updated Type 3 in black and white, Ressence also introduced the Type 1² SHA in collaboration with British visual artist Shantell Martin. She’s most famous for her black-and-white drawings, which you can see, for example, in NYC at the World Trade Center’s Oculus Subway station. On the one-off Type 1² SHA, she’s put her black marks on the silver dial. The watch will be auctioned during TimeforArt 2024 in New York on December 11th and 12th. The proceeds benefit contemporary artists and support culture.

For more information on Ressence’s new releases, visit the brand’s official website. What do you think of the updated Ressence Type 3? Let me know in the comments below.

Watch specifications

Brand
Model
Type 3
Reference
TYPE 3 B (black) / TYPE 3 W (white)
Dial
Oil-filled with four black biaxial Grade 5 titanium satellites and Super-LumiNova-filled markings
Case Material
Grade 5 titanium
Case Dimensions
44mm (diameter) × 15mm (thickness)
Crystal
Domed sapphire
Case Back
Domed sapphire
Movement
Customized ETA 2824-2 with patented ROCS 3.6 module: automatic with manual winding and time setting via case back, 28,800vph frequency, 36-hour power reserve, 44 jewels, magnetic transmission, compensating bellows system for the oil (seven bellows)
Water Resistance
Splash resistant
Strap
Black leather / silver-gray sailcloth type
Functions
Time (hours, minutes, 180 seconds), day, date, and oil temperature
Price
€38,200 (excluding taxes)