Every journey has an end and inspires us to set out on a new adventure. Today, we celebrate #TBT, one of the longest-running columns in Fratello’s history. We are happy to announce that after 10 long years, our Thursday contemplation on vintage watches has gotten a refresh. Let’s kick off a new Retrospective series with a special barrel-shaped Gallet chronograph.

Mike started #TBT back in 2014. It was his words that got me riveted to my computer every Thursday, exploring famous or underrated vintage watches. One late evening in 2018, I found out that Mike wandered into my city. Encouraged by my wife, I dropped him a message, and a few hours later, the three of us were talking watches in a pub. I remember it as if it happened a few minutes ago when Mike asked, “Why don’t you write an article for us?”

A new challenge

The question bugged me for weeks. It turned out Mike was serious, so I put pen to paper. In January 2019, I wrote my very first Fratello story about my beloved, bizarre, and underrated Venus 211 big-date chrono movement. I joined the team of editors, kept the #TBT torch for another six years, and have written more than 400 watch stories since, most of them on vintage watches. Simple.

Retrospective

From now on, we will continue with our vintage watch stories under the Retrospective column. We will mix content as we did before, always to please or surprise you. Besides steady vintage stars, we will discover interesting complications from the past and lesser-known but not less interesting watch brands and watches. Over the months to come, I plan to experiment with the format, keep it open, and welcome opinions for new angles on previously discussed watches.

Why a Gallet watch?

When I was thinking about the watch to become the Retrospective series opener, I wanted something special. Gallet holds a special place in my heart because I believe it’s one of the greatest yet underrated and somewhat undiscovered watch brands. Over the decades, Gallet introduced a fascinating chronograph lineup, including many individualistic, striking, or cult watches.

The second reason I chose this special Gallet model is because it embodies retrospection to me. I have a confession to make: I hate barrel-shaped and cushion cases, so I ignored this model for years. Only after my Gallet collection grew significantly did the maximalist in me trying to assemble all the important Gallet watches make me buy it. I didn’t expect to enjoy it, and I didn’t expect to wear it much. Honestly, I thought I would not wear it at all. If it had a Valjoux movement, I would’ve probably forgotten it, but since it has a mighty EP, I had to add it. Today, looking back on my expectations, I was all wrong.

My misconceptions

No matter what the greatest collectors whispered in my ears about cushion/barrel-shaped cases, I always saw them as men without legs — limbo watches. In my world, a watch needed lugs. Otherwise, I thought, it would be chunky and cumbersome. No matter how often I looked at catalog shots or online listings, I considered this Gallet chronograph unwearable.

My eureka moment

I wish I had seen my face when I strapped it to my wrist. It’s surprisingly slim. It also measures about 38mm from east to west and roughly 41mm from north to south. I don’t know the specific dimensions of, let’s say, Heuer’s “Orange Boy” or “Siffert,” but I know I tried them too, and they didn’t click with me. I don’t think the Gallet brand made me blind either as I was ready not to wear or like it.

Simply put, Heuer cushion-shaped cases didn’t work for me, but this case does. In pictures, I find this Gallet as unwearable as any other similarly shaped watch, but in reality, it is highly comfortable. Give it a chance.

So much to like

Once I overcame my seemingly insurmountable case problem, a visual paradise unfolded before my eyes. This watch’s tarmac-like bluish-black dial structure is an eye magnet. You will spend hours studying it with your naked eyes until, eventually, you get macro shots ready to micro-study your most expensive sandpaper. The balance of colors scattered among the numerous elements, such as the telemetric and tachy scales, the central chrono seconds hand, or the main handset, is another detail that will please your visual instinct.

Talking value, this barrel-shaped Gallet chronograph can cost anything between €4,500 and €8,000. It’s a pretty rare model. We have plenty of Excelsior Park-powered Gallet chronographs to fill a full year of articles with them. However, I believe there is just one barrel-shaped Gallet model that carries the EP40-68 movement. As this is also the only Gallet model with such a Bakelite bezel, it’s an element that deserves attention. It turns in both directions, clicks precisely, and stays firmly in place. From an operational standpoint, it defeats many modern divers in the €1,000–2,000 price range. The glass reflection effect is unbeatable, as is the lume under UV light.

Market variety

If you like this model, you should know there is also a panda version with black hands. According to my archive, the black-dial version was first introduced in the 1972 Bennett catalog with the “old” Gallet logo. A white-dial model with the Gallet by Racine logo was first printed in the 1973 catalog. Jules Racine even chose this model to be the hero watch on the front page of its eight-page catalog, which dates to about the same time.

Image: Pedro Matas, @tucayjordan

If you want a pure-bred example, you may go the extra mile and find one branded Excelsior Park. These are even harder to get than Gallet-branded models. Also, note that EP models have a pulsation scale instead of a telemeter. If you ask me, it’s cleaner and nicer, but it isn’t branded Gallet, which is much more important to me. The Girard-Perregaux fans may have their logo too. I didn’t know there was also one branded Gruen, with no tachy or tele scale. In addition, keep in mind that the GP and Gruen models have different bezel scaling. Thanks, Pedro, for helping me out with this market overview.

Conclusion

I saw real potential in this Gallet chronograph, but my prejudice toward the case shape was so strong that I hesitated for years. The reasons I overcame my irrationality are rather funny, but I am happy I allowed this model to get on my wrist. Baby, who was supposed to sit in the watch-roll corner, sees the sunlight here and there within the regular rotation of my Gallet watches. Its 12-hour totalizer is a real game-changer and makes it a real contender for any demanding collector. Unless you are a hardcore fan of barrel-shaped cases, I don’t recommend this as your first Gallet watch. But if you already have some and are thinking about another surprising model, this will exceed all expectations.

Expert opinions

Pedro Hernández Matas, @tucayjordan
Vintage Gallet expert

This is not my preferred Gallet watch as I am not the biggest fan of the case shape, but it has its place in my collection. What I love about the design is the interesting polishing contrast with the sunburst on top and a high polish on the sides. The design of the dial and hands design is perfect, as are the luminescent numbers on the bezel. The watch has one of the latest EP calibers, 40-68, which is, for me, one of the best chrono movements ever built. Simply smooth and reliable, if calibrated well, it can lose only one second in three days. From a quality and price perspective, all Gallet watches are underrated and undervalued.

Fred Mandelbaum, @watchfred
Vintage Breitling expert and EP enthusiast

This is an important model by one of my favorite brands, Excelsior Park. It represents the design evolution of the late 1960s and 1970s. If you asked what I don’t like about it, it would be the case shape. In full honesty, I hate watches shaped like this, but as a completist who tries to own all relevant models of a specific brand or watch type, it is a “must-have” for the Excelsior Park addict.

This specific model has excellent readability and functionality with both tachy and pulsation scales. My favorite details are the sunken reverse panda sub-dials with strong graining and chromed outer rings. The orange yachting minute-counter accent shines nicely, and so does the orange lume-paddle chrono seconds hand.

The actual reason why I collect these is the JB40-68 movement, which is the last execution of one of the finest chronograph calibers ever made. No other movement compares to the effortless crispness of chronograph activation.