RJ’s GADA Watch — The Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321

Sometimes I am jealous of people who have just one watch. However, that almost seems like something from the distant past since it’s so common to have more than one watch these days. Even if you’re not a watch collector or enthusiast, you probably have a watch that is dear to you because you received it from someone special or a watch that you bought because of its design. And alongside that one, you’ll likely also have, for example, a smartwatch that you use for workouts or other things.

There are not many one-watch people anymore

A friend of mine was a typical one-watch guy. He bought himself a Rolex Explorer II in the early 2000s, and that was it. And he wore it every single day until he got his Omega Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday back in 2017. Honestly, he only seldom wears that Speedmaster and still enjoys his Rolex Explorer II 16570 daily. For him, it’s the watch he can always enjoy, no matter what activity he’s doing.

During my holidays in 2022 Austria. A PloProf also works in the mountains.

And that’s the thing that can make a GADA watch very different to you than to me, for example. Now, unlike Lex or Nacho, I don’t live a very active life. I mainly work, go to work-related events, try to be at home with my family, try to walk a few holes on the golf course (but often fail miserably due to traveling), support my daughter with her field hockey games, and travel quite a bit for Fratello. Once per year — twice at most — I have some holidays with the family.

Unlike my colleagues, I don’t enjoy riding a bicycle, hiking, or swimming (hence why any certain level of water resistance isn’t a “must” for me). I agree that it is not the healthiest lifestyle, but I am quite good at resisting alcohol, smoking, and long nights of partying during events. I will use my bike a bit more often from now on, cut down on sugar and eating in general, and do some more walking to change for the better.

The Speedmaster Apollo 11 Moonshine accompanying me in Hong Kong

My GADA contenders in gold

Where was I? Ah, yes, what does this have to do with my pick for a “Go Anywhere, Do Anything” watch? Well, I don’t ask a lot from my watch when it comes to specifications. I want it to be accurate (enough) and versatile, and I need to be able to wear it everywhere I travel. Oh, and even more importantly, it needs to have a great design.

Now, I favor gold over steel these days, so I thought about being a bit snobbish and writing that my 18K yellow gold Rolex Day-Date on a President bracelet or my Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 “Moonshine” from 2019 would be my perfect GADA watch. Frankly, I have been wearing the gold Speedmaster like there’s no tomorrow (and it shows), and I never have any issues with it whatsoever. The Day-Date hasn’t gotten me into trouble either, but it has been recognized by other (non-watch) people more than once. While it has always been in a good way, it doesn’t strike me as a watch that I can wear everywhere I go for business travel or pleasure. The gold Speedmaster gets recognized less often, but since it’s gold, it’s still a risk in some places or situations.

Rolex Datejust 16234 with a tapestry dial — Image: Langedyk

A steel option

So, with a little bit of pain in my heart, I rule out anything gold. Another watch that could be perfect for daily wear is a Rolex Datejust. I only have a four-digit vintage model in my collection, but a nice Datejust ref. 16234 would tick a lot of boxes. Then again, this watch is also too recognizable. It’s not so for where I live or work, but it’s not a watch I’d just wear when traveling to certain places. That said, in my opinion, it is one of the best contenders to be a GADA watch.

With a strong design, rock-solid build quality, a great movement, and the Jubilee bracelet, it is one of the most comfortable watches out there. However, if you can’t even wear a Datejust for safety reasons, it basically rules out any Rolex. And I do wear my Rolex watches, but I try to be sensible when picking one. Unfortunately, I have to give a bit of thought to where I’m going that day or week to get it out of my external safe. It’s a sad reality but a reality nonetheless.

A great contender for my GADA watch is the regular Speedmaster Professional. It was actually my GADA watch for several years before I started Fratello in 2004. As I said, I don’t need water resistance because I don’t usually swim. I only swim when I’m on holiday, but I can just leave the watch in the hotel safe then. I don’t need a watch when swimming.

The Speedmaster Calibre 321 (left) and an original 105.003 (right)

My GADA watch is the Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321

In my opinion, one of the best Speedmasters, aside from the Moonshine Gold model, is the Speedmaster Calibre 321. During our Speedmaster World Cup series in 2020, in which our readers voted for the most desirable Speedmaster, the Calibre 321 stole the show. And I still stand for the watch that I defended against many other variations back then.

Although the regular Speedmaster Pro would do the job perfectly as a GADA watch for me, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 has a certain punch to it. Yes, I admire the Master Chronometer certification process and a Co-Axial escapement. However, if I must choose, I’d pick a 321 movement any day. I think it’s an incredibly handsome movement with lots of history. It might not be as accurate as the modern caliber 3861, but in this case, the aesthetics and history beat the technical specifications and innovations.

The Speedmaster Calibre 321 also has an incredibly comfortable bracelet with a timeless flat-link design. In addition, the bezel insert is ceramic, so it will remain scratch-free in the future. In combination with the sapphire crystal, it’ll keep the watch looking fresh.

A perfectly subtle and special piece

Admittedly, the Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 is a hard watch to get, and if you can, it’s quite expensive (retail is €16,700 today). But I bought mine when it just came out in 2020, before all the price increases. However, despite the high price point (I don’t think I would have bought it at the retail price today), I feel very confident wearing it wherever I go. It will not be recognized by non-watch people (and, honestly, only very rarely by watch people), which is perfect.

In my opinion, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 is the pinnacle of Omega’s achievements in recent years. Perhaps the movement is not as innovative as the caliber 3861, but being able to get the caliber 321 back to Omega (it was with Breguet for many years) and deciding to finally bring it back on the market after its discontinuation in 1968 is quite something.

The fact that Omega used the actual 105.003 from the last Apollo mission in 1972 to recreate the new Speedmaster Calibre 321 with its 39.7mm case makes it a perfect story as well. All these Calibre 321 models are assembled by hand in a special workshop in Biel, Switzerland. It’s a completely separate operation from the highly automated assembly line for nearly any other Omega watch.

This watch pays tribute to Omega’s Speedmaster legacy in the best way possible while being a modern watch that’s suitable for everyday wear. And for me, with the things I am doing (and not doing) daily, it’s the perfect GADA watch!

Would a Speedmaster also suit your needs as a GADA watch? Or would you need some more water resistance, a GMT hand, or a date window? Let me know in the comments.

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