Wear A Rolex If You Want To Be Different — A Rolex Perpetual 1908 Dress Watch, That Is

Wearing a Rolex signals different things. The most obvious ones are success and money. Conformity is another one. Wearing a watch from The Crown is like saying, “I made it, and I want everybody to know it.” I’m sorry, Rolex fans who admire the brand for its technical innovations, achievements, et cetera. For most, the brand founded by Hans Wilsdorf in 1908 is a status symbol. But not all Rolex references are created equal. You can wear a watch from the Genevan powerhouse that doesn’t act as a billboard for your ego. For those who want something more discrete, there’s the Rolex Perpetual 1908 dress watch. Who would buy such an incognito Rolex, I wonder…

There’s a certain Rolex model nobody talks about. Is it because it’s too discrete, or is it because the watch is irrelevant? In 2023, Rolex introduced the 1908 in yellow and white gold. In the 2025 lineup, the two yellow gold references, one with a white and the other with a black dial, cost €25,550. The white gold version with a black or white dial costs €26,850. The platinum version with an ice-blue dial showing a rice-grain motif debuted last year and costs €31,900 today. Those are premium prices. You can also buy a big 42mm Sky-Dweller in yellow Rolesor for that money or an even bigger Sea-Dweller in the same material for a bit less. For those in the market for a Rolex 1908, it’s all about the last word in the previous sentence — “less.” The watch is less of everything you associate with Rolex.

Is the Rolex Perpetual 1908 dress watch less or more?

When I say the Perpetual 1908 is less of a Rolex, I mean that not in the material way. The three watches in the current collection are an updated evolutionary step of the brand’s dress watches. The 1908 might have a different name, but it is a watch that is in line with the evolution of the Cellini. The design codes and positioning are closely related to the Cellini Time, Date, and Dual Time references it replaced. For instance, the domed and fluted bezel was also a design feature on the Cellini models. Other than that, the Perpetual 1908 is a different watch, but it serves the same purpose — offering an elegant, inconspicuous dress watch with the Rolex name on the dial and the logo on the crown. But those who would buy it must be a small crowd considering the competition the 1908 is up against.

A Patek or Vacheron dress watch? No, thank you, I prefer a Rolex Perpetual 1908

Can you imagine a watch conversation in which someone states that his or her dress watch of choice is not from Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin? I can’t. I suspect that whoever buys the Rolex 1908 is already an ultra-dedicated fan of The Crown. The world of luxury is a place of convenience and habit, especially when so-called “old money” is involved. You buy your shoes from brand X, your clothes are always specially made by Y, and your wristwatch is a Rolex. Why? That’s because, in the old days, the local jeweler who supplied wedding rings also carried Rolex watches. Over time, Rolex became the go-to watch brand. For everyday use, there was the Datejust, for the weekends, the “Sub,” and for special occasions, something a bit more formal like a Cellini — or now a Perpetual 1908.

I guess that 1908 owners have more than just that dressy, chic Rolex, and it wasn’t their first. But if you want to wear a Rolex but also desire to be original, the 1908 could be a good choice. It certainly is a watch that ticks all the dress-watch boxes. The 39mm case is just 9.5mm thick, and the dials show nice little details. The watches have delicately recessed small seconds sub-dials, and the platinum reference 52506 has a rice-grain motif on the engine-turned dial as a dynamic bonus. Two more subtle touches are the decoration flanking the minute track — a so-called filet sauté with a crimped pattern — and the elegant hour and minute hands.

The whisper of the fluted bezel

Arguably, the best design feature of the Rolex 1908 references is the double bezel, with its fluted outer portion and domed inner ring. The bezel is the one element that says — or, rather, whispers — Rolex. The watch is quiet enough not to alarm anyone but also eloquent enough to be “heard” by insiders. More importantly, it reflects the light, creating a lively timekeeping spectacle for the wearer. Regarding the wearer, do you think he or she buys the 1908 based on specifications? It could be because, apart from the mentioned build quality, the watch is outfitted with a top-notch modern movement. The slim caliber 7140 is an automatic movement featuring a Chronergy escapement with a Siloxy hairspring for optimal resistance to magnetism. It is rated to ±2 seconds per day and has an autonomy of around 66 hours. It doesn’t leave much to be desired.

But is the Rolex Perpetual 1908 an object of desire? Is the 1908 capable of finding an audience outside the circle of people who might be a dying breed? Traditions erode, especially in the arena of consumer goods where trends, taste, fashion, and a changing retailer landscape play a role. Can Rolex’s dress watch find a young, well-informed audience with a wish to swim against the stream? Buying a 1908 is buying the oddball from a mainstream brand and, therefore, a strong statement. Still, with so many discrete dress watches around from maisons that built their livelihood on them and are still going strong, it’s hard to imagine the 1908 turning attention away from those.

Rolex loyalty

Although the 1908 is only a couple of years old, it’s an anachronism. It’s connected to a world that’s fading away, and so are the watch wearers living in it. Only when formal dress watches replace easy-to-recognize, informal luxury sports watches will the 1908 make it big and compete with the likes of Vacheron and Patek. That is a fantasy world, and Rolex knows it. The brand should be applauded for the 1908. It’s a symbol of loyalty toward its customers. The dress watch is a testament to Rolex’s genuine care for its clientele. It can afford it, that’s true, but it’s still commendable. The gesture is as anachronistic as the Perpetual 1908 and very much the Rolex way.

Finally, it’s very hard to judge and perceive the 1908 as a dress watch alone. As it’s a Rolex and shares a place in the catalog alongside the GMT-Master II, Daytona, and Day-Date and everything they represent, the 1908 automatically becomes more than a case, dial, movement, and strap. You can’t see a 1908 without prejudice. The watch carries the brand’s full weight and iconic creations on its slender shoulders.

What are your thoughts on the Rolex Perpetual 1908? Would you consider it when looking for a high-end, precious metal dress watch? Would you buy it to express individuality through a mass-recognized brand?