The Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary Presage Craftsmanship Series Adds Four New Limited Editions
Celebrating the 110th anniversary of its first wristwatch, the Laurel, Seiko has announced the launch of two pairs of limited-edition timepieces in the Presage Craftsmanship Series. Each features a dial made by a dedicated artisan or craft workshop through a traditional Japanese decorative technique — enamel, urushi lacquer, Arita porcelain, and shippō enamel. All four models boast a new case shape, a fresh dial aesthetic, and an in-house automatic movement. And they are now hitting the market.
Celebrating 110 years of Seiko watchmaking
This quartet joins the lineup of Seiko limited editions to mark the milestone, which we have previously covered. Thus far, we’ve seen a Prospex diver, a King Seiko, and a Presage remake of Seiko’s first wristwatch from 1913. The new models in the latest assortment represent two functional variants. The enamel SPB393 and urushi SPB395 models house a triple-retrograde display, while the Arita porcelain SPB397 and shippō enamel SPB399 models are equipped with a date and power reserve display.
The new Presage case
For this release, the Presage welcomes a different case construction, bringing charm through its simplicity. Combining polished and brushed surfaces, the round case features faceted lugs, providing a subtle touch of refinement. For the triple-retrograde models, the case measures 40.2mm in diameter and 12.8mm in height. The other pair, however, has a 40.6mm case that stands 14.1mm tall.
The 6R movement series
On the side, a pillbox-shaped crown engraved with an “S” ensures an adequate grip, while a sapphire crystal on the case back showcases the watch’s mechanism. Seiko’s trusted 6R series of workhorse movements power all of these watches. The somewhat-uncommon 6R24 caliber drives the two models featuring the retrograde day, date, and power reserve. Ticking inside the other two is the 6R27 caliber, providing a subsidiary date and a power reserve indicator. Both movements run at a frequency of 28,800vph (4Hz) with a power reserve of 45 hours.
The Presage Craftsmanship Series
The real stars of the show here are the various dials on offer. All of the dials have the same set of hands and a mix of Roman numeral and baton indices. Among the triple-retrograde models, you can choose between the pristine white enamel dial with contrasting blued hands (SPB393) or a reddish-brown urushi (Japanese for “lacquer”) dial with white and gold accents (SPB395).
The former employs a time-honored technique performed by an enamel artisan, who applies a flawless enamel coat just 0.1mm thin. The latter displays a centuries-old decorative art form, using a color palette inspired by the streetscape of Ishikawa Prefecture’s city of Kanazawa, the name of which means “marsh of gold.”
The second pair offers an ivory-white Arita porcelain dial with black hands (SPB397) and a captivating blue shippō enamel dial with white hands (SPB399). Both of these models feature gold accents. The former is crafted in the Saga Prefecture city of Arita, steeped in 400 years of history of Japanese porcelain. The latter demonstrates the microscopic complexity of polishing layers of enamel, which amount to a mere 1mm glaze to bring out the wave pattern.
Closing thoughts
Seiko has outdone itself with this diverse range of dials. Although not entirely new designs, these Presage watches bring a fresh twist to the collection by blending elements of existing models with their exotic new dials. It’s like putting a “greatest hits” album together for this 110th anniversary. However, I find the triple-retrograde dials too busy with the amount of information presented. Also, the other pair’s 14.1mm thickness seems rather hefty for a dressy watch. Putting aside these concerns, the blue shippō enamel piece could be a standout among the four. Its attractive rosette dial texture and the blend of blue, white, and gold create a mesmerizing visual experience.
All of these watches come with 20mm padded leather straps in dial-complementing colors and a folding deployant clasp. Notably, the leather for the straps comes from Leather Work Group-certified tanneries, highlighting Seiko’s commitment to sustainable practices.
And despite Seiko’s price increases for recent releases, these new editions seem to align with their predecessors. The white enamel SPB393 retails for €1,650, the brown urushi SPB395 for €2,000, the ivory Arita porcelain SPB397 for €2,000, and the blue shippō enamel SPB399 for €2,250.
Production numbers are limited, making these new additions to the Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series even more desirable for fans of the brand. Only 800 pieces of the blue shippō enamel SPB399 are available alongside 1,500 pieces of each of the other three.
For more information, visit the official Seiko website.
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