Serica Introduces The New 6190 Field Chronometer — An Updated Version Of The Brand’s Popular Field Watch
I got my first taste of Serica a little over two years ago with the brand’s 4512. And what a great first taste it was! The 4512 was a modern take on a classic field watch done right with a ton of character to make it stand out from the crowd. In the next step for Serica, founder Jérôme Burgert decided to update the 4512. Today’s new version introduces a self-winding movement, a slimmer case, and a COSC chronometer certification. On top of that, all three dial designs were updated, which was more than enough reason for Burgert to give the series a new reference and introduce the Serica 6190 Field Chronometer.
Ever since I got that first taste of the Serica 4512, I have followed every step of the brand with great interest. And it’s safe to say that quite a few of the Fratello team members have become Serica fans. That’s why we have been eager to find out what the updated field watch would look like. With the new 6190, Serica hopes to continue the success of the first model. Judging from the info we have, the new and improved version certainly seems like the perfect step forward from the 4512.
The story of the Serica Field Watch
While my first encounter with the 4512 was a little over two years ago, the watch had been around for a bit. The first rendition of the 4512 dates back to 2019. It was met with a lot of praise when it was first introduced. The brand managed to inject the ultra-functional aspects of a field watch with a great dose of charm. Thanks to an original design for both the case and the dials, the 4512 immediately stood out. It kick-started a great collection of instantly recognizably Serica watches.
The 4512’s charm started with its 37.7mm stainless steel case with its characteristic broad-shouldered lugs and brushed flat-top bezel. They were the defining elements of the case that stood out immediately compared to its peers. Serica also offered the watch with the choice of three different dials. Two of them had a full set of Arabic numerals for the hours with the classic 13–24h scale and different minute tracks. The third was the California-dial version that I reviewed for Fratello. The three of them made up a great series of timepieces that combined style with the traditional toughness of a field watch.
From the Serica 4512 to the 6190 Field Chronometer
For 2023, Burgert decided to update the 4512 quite significantly, so much so that the new series of field watches has a new reference. The new Serica 6190 Field Chronometer models offer several updates compared to the previous generation. What has remained the same? The Serica 6190 is still a charming series of field watches offering three different dial options and a Bonklip bracelet. While I say that all of that is still the same, there have indeed been changes to both the dials and the bracelet.
Let’s kick things off with the new case. The case is still 37.7mm in diameter, but it has been slimmed down to a nice 10.4mm thick (including the 1.8mm double-domed sapphire crystal) compared to the 11.3mm thickness of the previous model.
The case has a 46.5mm lug-to-lug length, a 20mm lug spacing, and a 200m water resistance rating, just like the previous case. The biggest design change that immediately stands out is the chamfering of the lugs. It’s the same lug style that we have also seen used for the 5303 diver and the 8315 GMT.
The new lugs add even more character to the watch, and I love Burgert’s aim to offer design consistency in the Serica collection. The case still features that characteristic brushed flat-top bezel that defines the face of the watch in combination with the large crown.
Overall, I would say there is an added level of detail and sophistication in this new case. At the same time, the watch is still very recognizable as the successor to the 4512.
The three new dial variations of the 6190
In another update, the 6190 comes with three new dial variations. All three black enameled dials feature the text “Chronomètre” and “200m = 660ft,” referring to the movement and the water resistance. As we have come to know from Serica, there is no logo on the upper half of the dial. The brand name is neatly tucked away at the bottom next to the 6 o’clock marker. The first dial option is the updated Commando dial (right). It loses the 13–24h scale, resulting in a cleaner overall design. The dial features large luminescent rectangular markers at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock and combines them with luminescent hour numerals and an open minute track.
The second version has the new Denali dial. It is the brand’s take on a classic 3-6-9 design. It features a combination of luminescent numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock and Serica’s signature luminescent dot indices placed further toward the center of the dial. At first glance, I love this new design.
The third and last option is an updated version of the California dial. For the most part, its design has stayed the same. The main updates come in the form of full lume markers and an open minute track. I love these three new dials, which all have a cleaner look and improved functionality thanks to Super-LumiNova C3 on all of the hour markers and numerals. All three feature the same characteristic hands as the 4512, which are executed in white and filled with lume.
The new Soprod M100 automatic movement
For the next update, we find a different movement. The 4512 was powered by the manual-winding version of the STP1-11. For the new 6190, Burgert chose the same Soprod M100 caliber that also powers the Serica 5303 diver.
The automatic movement operates at 28,800vph, has 25 jewels, and provides 42 hours of power reserve. Additionally, the new movement bears Serica’s Grand Chronomètre certification. In addition to getting certified by the COSC, each caliber is further tested for power reserve, accuracy, and shock resistance. As it stands now, all of Serica’s current offerings bear the Grand Chronomètre designation.
As the movement is also thinner than the previous STP1-11, the brand was able to update the case and make it slimmer. Some enthusiasts might have reservations about the switch to an automatic movement, and I get that. You lose the charm of a hand-wound caliber, and the STP1-11 offered great accuracy at ±6 seconds a day. I do understand the update, though, as it offers greater day-to-day practicality, and you get a COSC-certified movement. On top of that, the overall profile is slimmer, making it more wearable.
An updated Bonklip bracelet for the 6190
The Bonklip bracelet also received a small but nice update in that it now bears the Serica logo. What stays the same are the two versions. The first is the standard version for wrist sizes starting at 15.5cm. The second is the Extra Long version for wrist sizes of 18cm or bigger.
I love the design and the comfort of the Bonklip bracelet a lot. It made wearing the 4512 an absolute joy. I was pleasantly surprised by how well the seemingly thin and flimsy bracelet could balance the watch on the wrist. With a thinner case, that will probably only become easier. One thing I had to figure out, though, was how to get the watch with the standard version of the Bonklip bracelet on my 19cm wrist. If I were to buy one, the Extra Long version might be the better option for me.
Impressions of the new Serica 6190 Field Chronometer
After seeing the trio of 6190 models and reading about the updates, I have to say that I am very impressed. It begs the question of whether something great got even better. From the looks of it, that seems to be the case. All the updates do come at a cost, though. The new 6190 Field Chronometer will be available for €990 (including VAT). That is quite a step up from the €690 price of the 4512. That said, the updates are significant. It makes the 6190 a great offering, even at a higher price.
There aren’t that many field watches out there that offer the same combination of specs and charm. Determining whether the updates are as good as they seem on paper will be fun. Until I get a chance to do so, I am greatly impressed by the steps that Burgert has taken to ensure the follow-up to the 4512 is impressive.
I love how he constantly looks for ways to improve his watches, both technically and visually. As a design fan, I love how the new 6190 offers cleaner dials and the distinctive chamfered lugs of the other Serica models. That is why I can’t wait to take the new 6190 for a spin and find out more. For now, it seems like a winner.
For more information, visit the official Serica website. Let us know what you think of the updated 6190 Field Chronometer in the comments section.
