So You’re New To Watches And Want To Buy An Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch
It is no surprise that we receive quite a few messages concerning the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. Over 500 articles on Fratello cover this chronograph, which results in some questions, especially from first-time buyers who are asking for some guidance when buying their first Omega Speedmaster.
The current Omega Speedmaster Professional 310.30.42.50.01.001
The classic Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch
Despite wearing my Speedmaster Calibre 321 (2020) and Speedmaster Apollo 11 Moonshine (2019) more often than my regular Moonwatch, I still feel if there’s one Speedmaster to own, it’s the standard Moonwatch model with a Hesalite crystal. It’s a great watch to own and wear, and you should at least try it once to see if it suits you and your collection.
The modern Moonwatch with caliber 3861
These days, you can visit any Omega boutique or authorized dealer and buy the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with a Hesalite or sapphire crystal, a black or white dial, and a bracelet or strap. The modern or current Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with either Hesalite or sapphire is the best buy.
Speedmaster bracelets (top to bottom) — the former bracelet, the modern bracelet, and the current bracelet with an extension mechanism in the clasp.
A few years ago, Omega upgraded the Speedmaster with a new movement, a new bracelet, a case design based on the “Professional” that was used on the Moon, and the old-style chronograph seconds hand.
Caliber 3861
But, of course, this comes at a price (€7,700 for the Hesalite version and €8,900 for the one with sapphire crystals). The Hesalite version would be my pick, but I can imagine some people want to look at the movement or prefer a sapphire crystal for its scratch resistance. Additionally, the modern Moonwatch is guaranteed water resistant to 50 meters. Every Moonwatch has been tried and tested for its water resistance, so it’s safe to swim with it (but not dive). A complete overview of the difference between the modern Moonwatch and its predecessor is available here. One side note to that article is that Omega has updated the Moonwatch’s bracelet with an extension mechanism since then.
The current price of the Moonwatch might be a shocker to those who remember looking for a Moonwatch (many) years ago. Right before the introduction of the current reference, the Moonwatch had a retail price of just less than €5,000, and on the pre-owned market, it would often sell for less.
Omega Speedmaster Professional 311.30.42.30.01.005
The predecessors of the current Moonwatch
With that amount in mind, you can still find a Moonwatch today on the pre-owned market. The predecessors of the modern Speedmaster Moonwatch refs. 310.30.42.50.01.001 (Hesalite) and 310.30.42.50.01.002 (sapphire) are still incredibly good watches. Omega’s Speedmaster Professional ref. 3570.50 was in the collection from 1997 till 2014, and it received a small update with the 311.30.42.30.01.005 that was in the collection until 2021.
Omega Speedmaster Professional 145.022-76
You can go back to older references, such as the 3590.50 (1988–1996) or any of the 145.022 iterations (1968–1988), but these are slightly more expensive and require some more homework. We’ve covered enough of these references to bring you up to speed on the topic, though. You can find them here.
Reference 3570.50
Speedmaster Professional 3570.50 and 311.30.42.30.01.005
The Omega Speedmaster Professional refs. 3570.50 and 311.30.42.30.01.005 are very similar. In the latter version, Omega changed the bracelet links to include screws instead of friction pins. The watch also came with a large Omega box with all kinds of extras, such as a NATO strap and Velcro strap, a tool to swap the bracelet for a strap, a loupe, and a commemorative coin. Otherwise, the watches are essentially the same and both use the Lemania-based 1861 movement. In turn, Omega’s caliber 1861 is an evolution of the former 861 movement. Caliber 861 was used from 1968 till 1996, with several small iterations. The last version of the 861 was already very similar to the 1861. It’s the 861 that was tested and flight-qualified by NASA in 1978 for the Space Shuttle missions in the 1980s (and onwards).
Omega caliber 1861
As always, the very early Speedmaster Professional models after the update (from 3590.50 to 3570.50) show some overlap in the details. You might find a 3570.50 with a tritium dial and hands, while it was also the first reference to have Super-LumiNova applied to its dial and hands. You might even find a 3570.50 still powered by a caliber 861. These so-called “transitional” models are typically more expensive due to their collectability.
Omega Speedmaster Professional 3573.50 — Image: The Diamond Box
Speedmaster Professional 3573.50 and 311.30.42.30.01.006
Just like the current Moonwatch, you will also find display-back-equipped versions of previous Speedmaster Professional references. These were produced between 1996 and 2021. These models used Omega’s 1863 movement, an iteration of the 1861 with nicer decoration. You can observe the Côtes de Gèneve, perlage, and polished levers through the case back’s sapphire window. This movement also uses a metal chronograph brake instead of one made of Delrin, a synthetic material. However, it wasn’t until 2002 or 2003 that the front crystal changed to sapphire for the models with a transparent case back.
Caliber 1863 — Image: The Diamond Box
Omega produced the Speedmaster Professional 3572.50 between 1997 and 2003, and it had a Hesalite crystal and sapphire-equipped case back. The Speedmaster Professional version with the two sapphire crystals, often referred to as the “Sapphire Sandwich,” has the reference number 3573.50. When Omega updated the 3570.50 in 2014, the double-sapphire 3573.50 received the same changes, resulting in the Speedmaster Professional ref. 311.30.42.30.01.006.
Speedmaster Professional 3570.50
What are the modern options?
This means that if you are looking for a somewhat more affordable but still modern standard Moonwatch, these are the options:
Speedmaster Professional with a Hesalite crystal:
- 3570.50 or 311.30.42.30.01.005
Speedmaster Professional with a sapphire crystal:
- 3573.50 or 311.30.42.30.01.006
The latter Speedmaster Professional references (2014–2021) would be the best pick as they have the updated bracelet and the big box with extras.
Availability and prices of the 3570.50 and 3573.50
If you search for Speedmaster refs. 3570.50 and 3573.50, you will likely find quite a few of these as the production period was quite long. When searching for the 3570.50, you can find examples on offer for just over €3,000. Since the condition is everything, though, you’ll probably want to increase the budget slightly. Boxes and papers might be of importance to you, but if it is a watch you plan to wear regularly and not buy specifically as a collector’s item, my advice is to prioritize the condition over a full set.
Speedmaster Professional 3573.50 — Image: Watch Oyster SA
Sapphire Sandwich
That said, Omega has produced so many of these references that you don’t need to compromise. The number of Omega Speedmaster Professional “Sapphire Sandwich” (ref. 3573.50) models offered is much lower than that of the Hesalite counterpart, but you can certainly find them. Prices are slightly higher, and a complete set in good condition will set you back approximately €5,000. Omega sold both models with the famous red leather box. When you see a seller’s photos of a deteriorated box, you shouldn’t worry about it. It is a common issue with these.
Speedmaster Professional 311.30.42.30.01.005 — Image: Marc Gebauer Lifestyle
Availability and prices of the 311.30.42.30.01.005 and 311.30.42.30.01.006
You can find the Omega Speedmaster Professional ref. 311.30.42.30.01.005 offered for roughly the same amount as its predecessor with sapphire crystals. However, the number of listings for the 311.30.42.30.01.005 as a complete set is a little higher as this reference is newer. Plus, it seems most owners wanted to keep the larger box with all the extras instead of throwing it away, as many did to the old red boxes. You can find a full set in good condition for around €4,500. The sapphire version of this watch, ref. 311.30.42.30.01.006, starts at that amount and quickly goes up to over €6,000 for one in good condition (and a complete set). It is probably not the amount you had in mind when searching for a pre-owned Omega Speedmaster Professional at an attractive price. However, there’s still quite a gap between the Omega Speedmaster ref. 311.30.42.30.01.006 and the current sapphire version (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002).
A 3570.50 with a fresh service overhaul
I would go for a pre-owned Speedmaster 3570.50 in good condition if I were buying it for myself. It’s the classic Speedmaster, and between €3,000 and €4,000, there’s not much (or nothing) on the market that can beat this watch (for me). If you are looking for a watch you can swim or even dive with, this is not the one for you. A diver chronograph might be something to look for instead.
Another option for those who want a Moonwatch is to go for an affordable 3570.50 and have it serviced/overhauled by Omega. The brand will charge you €950 for this service. I recently had a heavily worn 2007 Moonwatch 3570.50 serviced by Omega HQ, and it came back looking like new with a two-year warranty.
Lastly, some listings you’ll find will state that an Omega-certified or independent watchmaker serviced the watch. However, if there’s no paperwork or warranty card to back up this claim, you should not consider it serviced.
You can find more information on the modern Speedmaster on the official Omega website, and click here for an overview of Omega’s service prices.
