Starting A Watch Collection With €5,000: Thor’s Picks From Seiko, Furlan Marri, And G-Shock

With a diving legend, microbrand vintage-cool, and a G-Shock, this could be all you need

June 29, 2022

comments 19

While I do have some more expensive pieces in my collection now, I actually still gravitate towards the value end of the spectrum. I started with vintage pieces from eBay and somehow evolved through microbrands and Seiko, but what about today? In starting a watch collection with €5,000, my goal would be one of quality rather than quantity.

In fact, this complex exercise ties in with my own consolidation journey, one which is still ongoing and everything but easy. So I tried to view this with fresh eyes and a writer’s uncolored views of horology. But we all know this is a modified truth, as most watches are good, fairly accurate, and yes, they show the time. Take these suggestions as notes from an experienced collector, but just follow your heart.

Seiko SLA021 — One of the best Seiko watches that money can buy

Why start a watch collection with a Seiko? Because it was the Japanese, not the Swiss, that made me appreciate both the allure of in-house production and high horology. Seiko sometimes frustrates me with its seemingly random plan of releases, often a barrage of similar limited editions. But even with their rising prices, Seiko’s watches represent the pinnacle of in-house quality at a good price. Yes, the SLA021 is a very big watch, a direct competitor to the Rolex Sea-Dweller, in fact, but look. The feeling is very different, almost ironic, and that is a huge compliment. Let’s call it juxtaposition, as the Marinemaster is no joke. And no, I’m not interested in any discussions about the name, change of logo, or any of that nerdiness. We all know that this is the Daddy of Seiko divers, and it is a comforting brute of a watch. Nothing of 44.3mm has any right to be this comfortable.

Soft power

Seiko’s designers have been perfecting the sloping, reverse-angled case sides for decades, and what is the result? You feel the weight, but it is akin to being protected by a strong big brother or a hug from a friendly bear. Another beautiful contrast comes from the fact that the Zaratsu-polished case is finished by artisans in the Grand Seiko Shizukuishi studio, even if it is a mere Seiko. Even the solid 8L35 caliber is an in-house undecorated version of a GS movement. I have the SLA023 blue version myself, but the black one is a classic, and the new touch of a gold seconds hand is a sweet touch. Coupled with a 300m depth rating, Rolex-beating dial quality, and a ceramic bezel, this is diving royalty. The 15.4mm thickness and 50.5mm lug stretch feel smaller, and the daily accuracy rating of +15/-10 seconds per day is seriously pessimistic. Available for around €3,100.

Furlan Marri Black Sector ref. 2116-A — The dressy “vintage” number

With a 37.5mm Goldilocks case and Cornes de Vache lugs, the new Furlan Marri Black Sector is the brand’s all-important “second album”. The release that can make or break a band, even a new brand, is important for Furlan Marri. Founders Andrea and Hamad caused a ruckus with their first model, to say the least. It sold on Kickstarter for less than €500 and now sells on Chrono24 for anything between $930 and a mad $2,600. The 2116-A is their first foray into the mid-priced mechanical market, with a strong La Joux Perret caliber and a solid jump in price. For CHF 1,250 (currently €1,243) you get one of the most comfortable ’40s-style sector-dial watches on the market with lugs to die for. The grained texture on the dial is a formal background for glinting Breguet numerals and the strong vibe of mid-century elegance is tangible. If I didn’t do any sports or family activities with boisterous kids, this could comfortably be my one-watch starter collection.

A different kind of vintage

We all love a good ’60s skin-diver design, but they have been flooding the market lately. Furlan Marri made a bold move with this Holy Trinity-inspired reference instead of playing it safe. Therein lies its charm, especially partnered with soft comfort. The maximalist silver-printed sector dial is a dark background to polished Feuille (leaf) hands, it’s just a shame that we can’t see the movement. A big step up from the brand’s meca-quartz chronograph, the automatic G101 caliber has a 68-hour power reserve. It’s equipped with a tungsten rotor with a palladium coating, and the case itself is decorated with traditional perlage on the inside. That’s perfection for you. The watch winds smoothly and has kept superb time during my borrowed time living with the prototype. You’ll have a two-in-one collection of vintage chic from day one, as the Black Sector ref. 2116-A comes with one grained black curved-end strap and a smooth honey-colored one with a straight-end design. Both have quick-release pins for that easy changeover to match your outfit. The Furlan Marri pre-order window is still open, and you can order one for a very decent €1,243 plus shipping and VAT.

Casio G-Shock GBD-200-2ER — The inspirational go-anywhere tool

The GBD-200-2ER is a sleeker version of the legend-tough 5000-series, the origin of G-Shock. This, however, has a dual purpose, as the perfect go-anywhere travel and activity watch. Unlike a dinner-plate-sized Garmin, a G-Shock has the respect of the watch community while also being a fitness partner. Many of us are still lagging in the life-prolonging game of running, cycling, or walking to the shops instead of driving. With this, you have G-Shock cool, a blue cheer-me-up case, and a fitness tracker. Connect it up to the dedicated G-Shock app and get the hell off the sofa. Obviously, the Seiko Marinemaster can take a lot more punishment than a ramble through the woods and a couple of airport transfers, but this piece of blue resin is deceptively light when you’re lugging around suitcases or on a morning run. This is also Casio-affordable at a silly €149.

Image courtesy of Strapcode

Topping off the starter watch collection — Straps, straps, straps!

You’ve got around €500 left from your kitty of €5K. Did I miss my target? Well, no, and this is where I invite you to join the cult of the strap-a-holics. Both the Seiko SLA021 and the delectable Furlan Marri will look great on a variety of straps, extending your three-watch collection to six or eight in an instant. Granted, the Marinemaster comes with a silicone rubber strap, but it is both a dust magnet and is incredibly long (unless you’re Dwayne Johnson). Get a couple of Crafter Blue form-fitted rubber straps from Strapcode, and you have a lighter version of your indestructible tool for the hottest beach days.

What would you spend a generous €5K on, my judicious Fratelli? Two, four, or even six watches? Or would you start with one good watch? Let us know in the comments below.

Find me and follow me at @thorsvaboe

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Starting A Watch Collection With €5,000: Thor’s Picks From Seiko, Furlan Marri, And G-Shock

Good, inspired selection, although I personally wouldn’t go for anything as beefy as the MM or as dressy as the Furlan. Would probably opt for the GWM-5610 over the GBD too; the atomic timekeeping of the GWM is great for keeping the rest of the collection in order. I agree with the principle though; spend the bulk on the watch your going to get the most wear out of, enough to get a quality alternative and the rest on a solar quartz ‘multi-tool’.

dave says:

Jun 29, 2022 at 12:34

There’s certainly some wide-ranging versatility from the MM and FM!

G Shock is a no-brainer!

Arnold says:

Jun 29, 2022 at 14:09

As far as I’m aware, there is a quite significant crowd following of the Casio G-shocks, and that’s great.

To me, that is one of the unsolvable mysteries of life. I simply accept it the way it is, and explicitly forbid my brain to twist itself to understand why. It is simply a constant that has remained highly persistent since I got my first watch – a much loved Seiko Pan AM (M158-5009).

😀

1. dave says:
  
  Jun 29, 2022 at 15:35
  
  There certainly is a big following! T
  I’m wearing mine today ?
  
  1. Arnold says:
    
    Jun 29, 2022 at 15:48
    
    If everyone had the same preference, there would be only one watch from one brand, thus I’m happy that you enjoy wearing yours. Further, one has to know what one don’t like to sort out what one really enjoy – important part of the experience 😀
    
2. Ianbuk says:
  
  Jun 29, 2022 at 15:40
  
  I have been buying G-Shocks since they came out and still have my first from 1983 given on my 13th birthday. To be honest, I never really got into their rugged utility as a fashion watch until 1990 when wearing something as big was definitely not thing. Today, I have 30 of them and used them when at work, sky diving, diving and then in leisure as a coach.
  
  A very underrated brand.
  
  1. Arnold says:
    
    Jun 29, 2022 at 15:58
    
    Good for you 🙂
    
    I presume the reason for me not at all being a fan, is that I never liked the pile of various beeping small gadgets – “game consoles” in particular. I probably assosciate the G-shocks and the Casio brand persistently with those, and it probably will take a world class brainsurgeon that also is a world class psychiatrist to rewire my brain out of that one. I suspect all neurons are on red alert when my brain tries to connect casio and horology.
    
    I don’t however have the sligthest problem with others being unfortunate enough not to suffer from my beloved cronical deficiency ;D
    
  2. Ray says:
    
    Jun 30, 2022 at 05:46
    
    How do you figure ? G-shock/Casio are talked about on watch blogs a ton ! At least the last few years . I don’t know why , other than it moves merchandise just like any other watch they write about .

You’re an absolute madman. G-Shock is class, and the Furlan Marri is a great personal choice, but if this were your WHOLE collection (rather than a shopping list of the next three watches to spend five grand on) that SLA021 sticks out like a massive extravagant thumb. Naughty Thor. Naughty. Stop it now.

P.S. Can I have that G-Shock, though?

Thor says:

Jun 30, 2022 at 09:52

I know.. too colored by my own long-time ascent of the Seiko diver’s watch ladder. Here’s me thinking I could go straight to the top in another lifetime, with the benefit of hindsight. G-Shocks are far worse, I find a new one to desire every damn day..

Very obvious that a 5000$ watch collection is much to cheap for the Fratelli. Someone starting a watch collection with only 5000$ is looking for pieces that will gain value…because we can only afford a 5000$ collection.

Try making a collection that will gain the most value for 5000$. Because that’s how most of us that are in that price range think.

Nice try though. Out of touch much? ???

Rob says:

Jun 29, 2022 at 15:44

20 MoonSwatches, pls.

Gshok

Rob says:

Jun 30, 2022 at 10:38

Kind of want to convince Casio to do a special edition with it spelled like this… I would buy.

Everyone should have an MM300. No other watch has the depth in its dial that the Seiko does, and the case finishing makes it an interesting watch to wear and look at.

Thor says:

Jun 30, 2022 at 13:12

Yup. That sparkly deep dial is what did it for me in the first place..

Great choice if you desire watches that halve in value shortly after purchase. We shall see if Fratello deletes this comment.

Thor says:

Jul 02, 2022 at 14:33

Look, on two of these you are right, neither a G-Shock or a Marinemaster will keep their value. I can say with a hand on my heart that I have never bought a watch as an investment. But if that’s how you feel then buy one pre-owned, the value drop will have happened already, and you’ll save a bunch. The Furlan Marri on the other hand, their first ones sell high, but as I said, just but what you love, they’re not wrist-fitted stocks.