We all know the world is divided between people who like salmon skin and those who don’t. Whenever I prepare salmon at home for my family, I make sure to buy the kind with the skin still attached. I heat the butter in the frying pan, add the salmon skin side down, and let it simmer for a bit. That helps create the crusty layer I enjoy so much when cutting through a tender salmon filet. And I don’t know about your family, but I always end up with other people’s salmon skins on my plate too. If you’re anything like me, then I’m sure you’ll thoroughly enjoy Studio Underd0g’s new 03Series because its dial is inspired by the salmon and its shimmering skin.

It has only been a few weeks since H. Moser & Cie. and Studio Underd0g unveiled the fruits of their shared passion project. Both companies’ watches had a dial inspired by the passion fruit. Moser applied that concept to its Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, while Studio Underd0g quietly launched the 03Series, a new version of its playful chronograph. It was the first time that the British brand had used a Swiss-made chronograph movement instead of the usual Seagull ST1901. Now the new salmon-inspired 03Series model shows it also wasn’t the last time. Let’s take a look.

03Series head shot

The first salmon-skin-inspired dial?

Every self-respecting watch brand out there has a salmon-colored dial in its collection these days. Have a look at these great examples by Czapek, Parmigiani Fleurier, and Fears, and you’ll see what I mean. But most of those dials mimic the color of a salmon’s “meat,” not its shimmering skin. I don’t think there’s even been a watch with this approach before. Then again, Studio Underd0g has a reputation for original designs. Take a look at some of the brand’s earlier ones inspired by pizza, pumpkin, and aubergine, to name just a few. Now founder Richard Benc has found a way to surprise us all again.

03Series Salmon

The Studio Underd0g 03Series Salm0n (Skin)

The new 03Series Salm0n has a brushed and polished 38.5mm stainless steel case. Including the domed sapphire crystal on top, it’s 13.6mm thick, and its lugs span 44.5mm across. It’s a compact chronograph with a signed crown at 3 o’clock and a single rectangular pusher around the 2 o’clock position. The watch comes on a black Italian Saffiano leather strap made by Studio Underd0g’s loyal partner, The Strap Tailor. But what you’ve all been waiting to learn more about is the salmon-skin-inspired dial.

03Series salmon wrist

Like many of the brand’s watches, the 03Series Salm0n has a two-layered dial. The lower part, including the 30-minute counter, takes inspiration from the salmon’s orange-pink filet. It’s radially brushed and has a metallic finish. The upper part of the dial has a coarse texture and a silvery dégradé shimmer similar to a salmon’s skin. The sub-seconds register has an azurage effect, and the hour markers are simple black dots. They match well with the black hands and the other printing on the dial. All in all, I feel this is a great representation of a salmon’s skin. A few tanned parts could make it look even more delicious, but I guess this salmon still needs to go into the frying pan.

Swiss powered

Just like the 03Series Passion Fruit, the new Salmon model houses the Swiss-made Sellita SW510 M MP b, a cam-operated monopusher chronograph caliber. This hand-wound movement runs at a frequency of 28,800vph, features 23 jewels, and holds a power reserve of 63 hours. Through the sapphire window of the case back, you can take a look at the Geneva stripes and the ruthenium anthracite finishing. This is all part of the Elaboré level of finishing that Sellita applies to the movement. This movement grade also includes an advertised accuracy of ±5 seconds per day.

In addition to Sellita’s inspection, Studio Underd0g also partnered with Horologium for quality control. That means the accuracy of each watch is checked in three positions, and, if necessary, the watch is demagnetized.

Not limited by numbers but limited by time

I think this is another great design by Richard Benc and his team, especially because I love salmon skin. The dial’s contrast and asymmetric character certainly aren’t for everyone, but at least the colors are quite easy on the eye. For €1,800, this is a very original watch that could fit well in any collection. If you’re like me and interested in getting your hands on one of these, then pay close attention now. The Studio Underd0g 03Series Salm0n isn’t limited in terms of numbers. However, it’s only available for pre-order during a nine-hour time slot.

This pre-order window opens on September 17th, 2024, at 15:00 BST and closes at 00:00 BST (18:00–03:00 GST / 10:00–19:00 EDT / 07:00–16:00 PDT / 16:00–01:00 CEST / 22:00–07:00 SGT). You can only order the watch through Studio Underd0g’s official website. Placing an order in that timeframe will guarantee you a watch. The first 400 watches will be delivered in October 2024, and any further orders will be delivered in January 2025.

Let me know in the comments below if you’re also a big fan of salmon skin and what you think of this watch!

Watch specifications

Model
03Series Salm0n
Reference
03SAB
Dial
Two-layered construction with orange-pink lower and silvery dégradé upper
Case Material
Stainless steel
Case Dimensions
38.5mm (diameter) × 44.5mm (lug to lug) × 13.6mm (thickness)
Crystal
Domed sapphire
Case Back
Stainless steel and sapphire crystal, screw-in
Movement
Sellita SW510 M MP b (Elaboré grade): manual winding, 28,800vph frequency, 63-hour power reserve, 23 jewels, accurate to ±5 seconds per day
Water Resistance
50 meters (5 ATM)
Strap
Black Saffiano leather with stainless steel pin buckle
Functions
Time (hours, minutes, small seconds), monopusher chronograph (30-minute register, central seconds), tachymeter
Price
€1,800
Special Note(s)
Available for pre-order exclusively from Studio Underd0g's website on September 17th, 2024, from 15:00 BST to 00:00 BST (18:00–03:00 GST / 10:00–19:00 EDT / 07:00–16:00 PDT / 16:00–01:00 CEST / 22:00–07:00 SGT). The first 400 watches will be delivered in October 2024, and any further orders will be delivered in January 2025.