Sunday Morning Showdown: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 16202 Vs. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

You blink once, and it is Sunday again! Fear not — we have another big horological battle prepared to help you softly transition into action this morning. This week, we pit the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 against the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” 16202. It is the watch world’s latest darling reissue versus the daddy of the genre.

Today, Jorg defends the 222’s honors, taking on Thomas with the 16202. Before they get into it, though, let’s have a quick look at last week’s results.

Last week’s results

Jorg enters the arena gleaming with confidence after he managed to beat Mike last week. The gentlemen dug deep, but Jorg came out victorious with 52% of the votes for his Rolex Submariner ref. 5512. Still, Mike’s Rolex Explorer ref. 1016 put up a strong fight that nearly split the vote right down the middle.

Both candidates received heaps of praise in the comments. The Explorer 1016 mainly scored points for being the peak Explorer and keeping it simple and elegant. On the other hand, proponents of the Sub applauded its iconic status.

One comment mentioned that the numerals on the 1016 look like kids’ fridge magnets. That made me (Thomas) chuckle. Although the 1016 is one of my all-time favorite watches, I completely agree. Now, with last week’s news out of the way, let’s proceed to today’s battle.

Thomas: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 16202

This is the second time we have featured the new Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 in our Sunday Morning Showdown series within a month. I guess this says something about how smitten we all were at Fratello. However, I think I am about to bring the pain, Jorg. As lovely as it is, my Royal Oak “Jumbo” 16202 will kick the 222 back to the Vacheron service center. If I have my way, it’ll require a full movement service and exterior refinish.

But let’s paint the picture first. These two watches represent a genre that emerged in the 1970s. This genre arguably saved the mechanical wristwatch from extinction, which makes today’s combatants highly relevant to any watch enthusiast. I am speaking, of course, of the stainless steel sports watch with an integrated steel bracelet.

All of this heritage does not come cheap. In fact, you need a little over €35,000 to add either of these to your collection. If you manage to find one at retail, that is. Interestingly, a mere €900 separates the two, rendering discussions about prices moot. What you get from these two is incredibly similar. Both have blue dials, automatic movements, and, of course, integrated steel bracelets. Even specs-wise, there is little between them. In short, we think we’ve come up with an apples-to-apples comparison today, although I am sure at least one comment will try to prove otherwise. It is a Sunday Morning Showdown tradition, so to speak.

The Royal Oak is the one and only

Let me start with the most obvious point, Jorg — status. I don’t mean the status a watch like this supposedly gives its owner; I am talking about the status of the Royal Oak itself. The Royal Oak is a genre-defining watch. In fact, I would argue it is the most genre-defining watch of all. When people say “stainless steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet,” this is what they are talking about.

Now, this could have easily made it a cliché or even tacky choice. However, Audemars has managed its brand hero so well that it has maintained its significance. The base model, currently 16202, is also the best one. Why? Because posers with more money than taste will always choose a blinged-out fancy version. This keeps the blue-dial steel variant exclusive. This is one of the very few iconic watches that you don’t see in the wild very often. That’s very hard to accomplish and maintain for so many decades.

You’re a design freak, Jorg; humor me. Name the five most iconic watch designs of all time. Off the top of my head, I’d say, they’re the Cartier Tank, Rolex Submariner, Omega Speedmaster, JLC Reverso, and AP Royal Oak. Out of those, I reckon it’s one of the least controversial. It holds that spot for a reason, and that is why the Royal Oak deserves the vote.

A closer look at the Royal Oak 16202’s design

What I love about the Royal Oak and its current guise, the 16202, is its distinctiveness. This goes beyond the shallow points of being the first of its kind and octagonal. Gérald Genta succeeded in coming up with a watch solely built up of instantly recognizable elements. Look closely — everything is characteristic of the Royal Oak. You could show any watch enthusiast this set of hands, and he or she would recognize it as the Royal Oak’s. The same goes for the bezel, the crown, the hour markers, and even the dial texture. From a design perspective, this is completely nuts.

I find this especially admirable since the resulting package works so well. Granted, not everybody thought so throughout its entire history, but it certainly aged well. The design balances angular and organic shapes masterfully. This results in a watch that looks brutalist without being harsh or unrefined. Even the juxtapositioning of octagonal shapes and the dodecagonal layout of a watch inexplicably works. To me, this is a benchmark of watch design.

I will leave it at that. Jorg, my dear friend, please prove why I got it all wrong!

Jorg: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

Thank you, Thomas! Let me start by stating that I don’t think you’re wrong. In my humble opinion, there is no right or wrong when it comes to these two watches. There is simply a personal preference, and I would even go so far as to say that time defines this. Let me elaborate on that for a bit. With the 222 comes a certain excitement that I haven’t felt with the Royal Oak in a long time. The simple fact that we hadn’t seen the 222 in Vacheron Constantin’s collection for decades until almost three years ago makes it relevant and fresh. I know it’s a lackluster argument because you can’t blame the Royal Oak for having been there all along. Still, it most definitely plays a part in my preference for the 222.

The modern version of the 222 also revealed a certain sophistication that I truly appreciate. It’s a sophistication that makes for a brilliant watch and fits Vacheron Constantin as a brand. It’s a modest but stylish confidence that resonates with me. On the other hand, Audemars Piguet tends to cater to a more flamboyant poseur crowd that I feel less at home with. Let me be clear: I am not so naive to think both brands don’t attract a partly similar crowd. It comes with the territory. However, the perception a brand gives us matters to me, and that’s why I prefer Vacheron Constantin.

I won’t deny Gérald Genta’s brilliance

Does that hurt the one-on-one connection to the Royal Oak “Jumbo?” Quite simply, no, it doesn’t. As you said, Thomas, I am very passionate about design, and that’s exactly why I will immediately state that I love Genta’s work. While not all of it is equal, the man certainly left his mark on the watch industry with a design or two. I’m just kidding, of course. Genta’s legacy stretches far beyond the Royal Oak, but it is the one watch that defines his career. I agree that the Royal Oak is a genre-defining watch, and I would add that it is the last big revolution in watch design.

I have often paid respect here on Fratello to Genta’s work. Although his creations will always stand out, I also admire the man’s design thinking and keen eye for proportions. To start with the former, with the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Ingenieur, Genta based three watches on the exploration of three rudimentary symmetrical shapes — an octagon, a square, and a circle. But you can also add a hexagon to that list because the recently reintroduced Credor Locomotive shows another shape that Genta explored. It’s this simple but genius thinking that I admire most.

It’s about personal connection rather than general reputation

In my review of last year’s Locomotive, I also explained Genta’s brilliant eye for proportions. At first sight, the Locomotive seems like a quirky play on the design theme he created. But put that watch on your wrist, and you will be amazed by the brilliance of his design. You can debate whether the Locomotive’s looks are for you, but you can’t debate Genta’s talent for getting it right. At the same time, we also can’t deny that then-24-year-old Jorg Hysek got it right with the 222. Sure, he wasn’t the first and never will be. Call Genta the master and Hysek the apprentice. Call the Royal Oak first and the 222 the follower. As I said, though, I don’t base my choice on general perception but, rather, on personal connection.

My connection to the new stainless steel Historiques 222 is deeply personal and not based on reputation. The moment I put it on my wrist a few weeks ago, a wide array of impressions sparked a feeling of sheer joy. Let me elaborate on why I prefer it over the Royal Oak past that feeling of seeing something exciting and fresh. A first impression I loved was how refined and almost subtle the 222 feels, especially compared to the Royal Oak. The latter is full of big gestures, and as you said, Thomas, every detail adds a distinct character. But that also leaves more room for details that are less to my liking.

I never doubt the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

An example is the dial. The Royal Oak ref. 16202 features the iconic tapisserie dial. It’s always been a love/hate element for me. Some days, I adore it, but there are days that it feels like too much. Additionally, I’m not the biggest fan of the shimmer that the dial of the current Royal Oak has. On numerous occasions, it has sparked the idea that I would love to see the same watch with a different kind of dial. An example is the amazing sandblasted gray and ivory dial Audemars Piguet used for its pink gold Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon, which you see pictured above.

I never have that feeling with the dials of the 222. Even better, I adore the new stainless steel Historiques 222’s dial. Its deep, rich blue shade combined with the simple yet refined design makes it perfect for me. There is no pattern that “fights” with the brand name, and there is no shiny distraction from the elements that tell you all you need to know. Let’s not forget about the small gold Maltese cross on the bottom right of the case. It is another detail that I adore and that complements the dial with and characteristic bezel perfectly.

The Royal Oak feels almost too technical at times

When I put the 222 on my wrist, I got different sensations that solidified my connection with it. First, the refinement of the overall creation speaks to me more at this point than the brutalist statement the Royal Oak makes. The latter feels more technical and almost cold, whereas the 222 has a certain grace I adore. The bracelet of the 222 reinforces this feeling. I love the shapes and the wonderful way it hugs the wrist. Yes, the bracelet of the Royal Oak is also brilliant and comfortable. I will be the last person to take anything away from that. But in the excitement of seeing and wearing the 222, the bracelet is another crucial element of why I love it so much.

The one thing I thought you would use against the 222 is the caliber, Thomas. I will give credit where credit is due. The Royal Oak’s modern caliber 7121 beats the 222’s caliber 2455/2 in terms of performance and looks. But does that keep me from picking the new stainless steel Historiques 222? Absolutely not. Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques 222 simply speaks to me more than the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 right now. Of these two watches, I would most definitely pick the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 first.

I know it’s become a lengthy love letter to the 222, Thomas. It’s not on purpose. You understand better than anyone that a love for a design runs deeper than any status and reputation. That’s why I humbly disagree with you about this week’s matchup of two giants.

A difficult choice

Having said that, it’s not up to you or me to make a final decision in this tough battle, Thomas. Now it’s over to our dear readers, who must choose between the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” and the brilliant Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222. In this showdown, perhaps more than any other, we’d love to hear why you’ve chosen your pick. Let the voting begin!

Header image of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 courtesy of Bonhams.