Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1

Last week, two dress-watch giants presented new versions of existing watches in their collections. First, A. Lange & Söhne showed us four new references of the Lange 1 to celebrate the model’s 30th anniversary. Then, Breguet presented us with a new platinum version of both the Classique 5177 and 7787. So, for this week’s Sunday Morning Showdown, we thought it would be a good idea to put the platinum A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 and the platinum Breguet Classique 5177 up against each other.

Both watches show the hours, minutes, running seconds, and the date. Each also comes with a glossy black dial and a hefty platinum case. However, apart from those similarities, there are more than enough differences that set these two apart. Thomas and Daan will make sure to point those out to you this morning. But first, we’ll take a look at how things played out last Sunday.

Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown

We put two heavily vintage-inspired divers up against each other last time. In one corner, we had the relatively new Doxa Sub 200T. This is the smaller version of the brand’s fan favorite. In the other corner was the even newer Oris Divers Date, a revamped Divers Sixty-Five with a ceramic bezel and refined bracelet. Based on the voting result and the comments, it seemed hard for many to choose between the two. Or maybe there’s just a big fan base for both of these watches. Now, one week later, the Doxa has finally pulled ahead with 51% of the votes. Let’s see if this week’s battle won’t be so close.

Daan: The Breguet Classique 5177

Well, Thomas, here we are again; it’s Breguet against A. Lange & Söhne once more. The last time you and I pitted these two brands against each other, the Breguet Classique 5157 only won by just a hair against the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin. Those were two very clean-looking rose gold dress watches with only hour and minute hands on the dial. Today, it’s about two slightly more complicated watches that look a bit less classic than those time-only pieces we defended before. But even though they might use the same material for their cases and both have a black dial, they’re still very different from each other.

The Classique 5177 hasn’t been around as long as the Lange 1. But with 20 years of production under its belt, it has been around for quite a while as well. Over time, there have been several versions to choose from. All of them have come in either a white gold, yellow gold (discontinued), or rose gold 38 × 8.8mm case. For the dial, you can choose between a guilloché or a Grand Feu enamel finish. Up until last week, you could choose between either a white or blue enamel dial. But with this new release, you can now also get a glossy black dial with silver printing. But that does mean you have to agree with it having a platinum case instead of a gold one, and that’s exactly what I like so much about this release.

Under the radar

The new Breguet Classique 5177 with its glossy black enameled dial and platinum case is so under the radar. This is not a watch with which to show off from a distance. However, when you come in a little closer, there’s so much to get excited about. First of all, you may not be able to see a big difference between stainless steel, white gold, and platinum, but you can certainly feel the difference between them when you put them on your wrist. Well, all right, the weight difference between a gold and platinum watch might actually be negligible. But isn’t it cool to be able to say that platinum is about 30 times rarer than gold?

Then, there’s the beautiful dial with its deep black enamel and silver printing and hardware. It might not be as “blackhole-ish” as Vantablack, but it still looks pretty dark to me. At 12, there’s the graceful Breguet logo in silver. It’s there again at 6 o’clock, but this time it’s engraved and only visible from certain angles. The Breguet numerals at each hour have the perfect size, and the minute track is a joy to look at with a loupe. Admittedly, the date window is my least favorite feature here. But at least its ton-sur-ton execution isn’t too distracting.

A true modern Classique

What I love about this new version of the Breguet Classique 5177 is that it feels a lot different than previous ones. For some reason, the different case material and the black dial almost make it feel like a completely different watch. It looks more modern, yet it still has that signature Breguet Classique style. This new version brings the Breguet Classique to the present day without losing any of its original charm.

Compared to the Lange 1, I feel the Classique 5177 is so much more elegant. The Lange 1 looks and feels more bulky, and I’ve just never fallen for its off-center dial layout. It still looks well organized, and I don’t think it’s too busy, but I’m not in love with it. In addition, I prefer the Breguet’s automatic movement over the hand-wound one in the A. Lange & Söhne. It simply makes it a much more carefree watch. But, Thomas, I’m curious to hear what you have to say to defend the Lange 1.

Thomas: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1

Indeed, Daan, this is something of a rematch for us! I am writing this in an atypically relaxed state of mind. Why? It’s because I love both of these watches, so I feel that I cannot lose today. You have picked a very tasty contender, Daan. Still, when push comes to shove, I would have the Lange.

I will try to make my case, but let me start with a crucial bit of information on prices. After all, this is another similarity between the two. Both sit in the €40K–50K range, with the Breguet coming in at €43,500 and the Lange at €49,800. Granted, we only know the price of the pink gold Lange 1; the rest of the prices are on request. However, I think it is safe to assume that people who can afford one (or, rather, 1) can afford the other. They sit in the same bracket, I would say.

This is important because it does not feel that way to me. Based on gut feeling alone, I would have guesstimated the Lange 1 to be significantly more expensive than the Classique 5177. To see them so close in price only serves to confirm my preference for the A. Lange & Söhne.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 over Breguet Classique 5177

The key in this comparison for me is the attention to detail in design. I agree, Daan, that the simple black enamel with silver Breguet numerals is sleek. But it pales in comparison to the Lange 1. The more you look at this watch’s dial, the more it reveals what a masterpiece of design it truly is.

I know I am supposed to talk about the golden ratio, but that is just how, while I am more interested in why. In this case, it is because it helps create flow, dynamism, and tension while retaining calmness and beauty. The dial elements look as if they could start rotating in a Ressence-like way any second. There is a strong visual hierarchy too. The eye is naturally guided along the separate elements that make up the dial together. They aren’t fighting for your attention. The clever text placement and curving enhance the congruence and motion even further. It looks so simple, but I cannot stress enough how hard it is to design a dial like this.

I miss this level of ambition in the Breguet Classique 5177. You mention the date window, Daan, which looks out of place. I keep seeing “113” when it is the 11th. It looks less intentional than the Lange 1. While Lange’s designers sought to create a groundbreaking piece of art, Breguet’s designers seem to have been happy just to make a beautiful watch.

The Lange 1 feels more special than the Classique 5177

I feel that the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 is a modern classic. Not many watches from our lifetime (Daan and I are in the second half of our 30s) have become true classics. The Lange 1 is a watch that should be on any list of the top 100 most important watches.

Handling a Lange 1 is an experience. It is a watch you can marvel at. It is a watch people will ask about, gazing at it in amazement. You know I love the Breguet Classique, Daan. But, honestly, I think a preowned white gold model with a guilloché dial is the one I would buy. That offers all the Breguet quality with a more iconic aesthetic at a quarter of the price. If I am spending upwards of €40K, I want a little bit more pizzazz. The Lange 1 provides it in spades.

Don’t get me wrong; I am not trying to bash the Breguet Classique 5177. It is a watch I would happily own and wear. However, if it were my money, I feel I would simply get more joy out of the Lange 1. Another benefit is that I would get to choose between a 38.5mm and a 36.8mm version. Amazingly, the design survives the scaling process just fine, although I feel the larger one has a little bit more room to breathe visually.

Time to vote!

There you have it — two fantastic Haute Horlogerie combatants in platinum and black for those with a €50K budget! Which is your pick, the Breguet Classique 5177 or the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1? Cast your vote, and share your motivations in the comments section below.