Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 Vs. Blancpain Air Command In Titanium And Green
It’s Sunday morning, so we have a new Sunday Morning Showdown lined up for you! This week, Daan and Jorg face off for this battle between high-end pilot’s watches that you, the Fratelli, requested. The first is the new green-dial titanium Blancpain Air Command that came out not too long ago. It’s going up against the Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 that debuted last year. It’s a natural pairing because these vintage-inspired models represent the utilitarian side of these traditional Swiss brands. Let’s find out which of these two renowned watches will take the win!
Both of today’s classically styled pilot’s watches have interesting backstories, but the remarkable thing is that those stories are completely different. The history of the Breguet Type 20/Type XX is well documented and a big reason enthusiasts love the watch so much. When it comes to Blancpain’s Air Command, the story is characterized by question marks about the origins and design of the watch. However, both watches are recognized as great examples of pilot’s chronographs from the “propeller era” of aviation. Both also come with prices just north of €20,000. But there are also plenty of differences that Daan and Jorg will undoubtedly explain to you. In the end, as always, you can vote for your favorite. Let’s pass it over to our writers to make their respective cases!
Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
But before we do that, let’s take a quick look at last week’s battle of the Omega Speedmaster FOiS models. The second-generation model of the Speedmaster First Omega in Space took last week’s win with a comfortable 65% of the votes, leaving the first-generation model with just 35%. In the comments section, the battle seemed slightly more balanced regarding the preference for a certain aesthetic. What everybody agreed on was that the new watch was technically superior. That likely played a big part in the result. But it’s time to go to this week’s Sunday Morning Showdown, so over to Daan and Jorg to battle it out!
Jorg: Blancpain Air Command in titanium and green
Today’s battle is not a completely new idea, Daan. I must confess that I was part of a similar showdown almost four years ago. In that battle, Ben defended the steel Blancpain, and my pick was the Breguet Type XXI. So, have the tables turned completely in four short years? My answer is a whole-hearted “yes!” Let me explain why. The main reason is a change of opinion on aesthetics. Breguet introduced a new Type XX last year, and what potentially could have been a great design turned into a dial that I simply cannot get behind.
But let me explain why my feelings for the Air Command have strengthened. When the first modern version of the Air Command was unveiled in 2019, it looked like it would be a straightforward one-time limited edition celebrating the original watch from the 1950s. As most of you know, the origins of the Air Command are somewhat shrouded in mystery. In the mid-1950s, Blancpain created a few prototypes for the United States Air Force. The watches were offered to American fighter pilots through the distributor Allen V. Tornek. It is generally believed that Blancpain created a dozen watches for Tornek. However, specific details about the production number and what happened to those watches are unknown.
The return of the Blancpain Air Command
Despite lacking details, the original Air Commands are highly sought-after vintage watches that fetch astronomical prices at auctions. So when the brand reintroduced the Air Command in 2019, it was a great opportunity for Blancpain enthusiasts to get their hands on a more affordable and modern version of the original watch. All 500 pieces of the reissue sold out in no time, and it was a good sign for Blancpain to think about introducing the Air Command name to the permanent lineup. And that’s exactly what the brand did. However, Blancpain walked a different path instead of creating different color variations of the first stainless steel model.
Three years after the Air Command’s resurgence, the brand introduced titanium and rose gold versions in 36.2mm and 42.5mm cases, each with a blue dial and bezel. Fast-forward another two years, and Blancpain recently released a green-dial version with a black bezel in two sizes. When the 42.5mm version landed on a desk in the Fratello offices, I didn’t exactly sprint over there to have a look. But when I eventually did, I found the new Air Command very impressive. There was the watch that I had liked but never loved in a new configuration that genuinely excited me.
Sometimes, it’s as simple as a change of colors
The reasons are fairly simple. I adore the army-green color that Blancpain chose for the dial and the strap. It works especially well with the beige/”fauxtina” details. However, the specific color combination creates a watch that is not defined by mimicking the original discolored lume. The green and beige hues work super well with the black ceramic bezel insert, creating an aesthetic that almost has a desert/tropical air to it. It’s a different, more contemporary way of looking at this dial, as Lex explained, and I firmly side with him on this one. It gives the watch a relevance that effortlessly ties into a current-day wardrobe.
Just as a quick reminder, let’s review some of the details. The watch has a 42.5mm Grade 23 titanium case that is 13.7mm thick and measures 51mm from lug to lug. This lightweight case has an elegant, curvaceous profile that flows naturally from top to bottom. The finishing is top-notch, and the hue of the titanium suits the dark green, beige, and black colors of the dial and bezel insert.
The in-house Blancpain caliber F388B
Inside the case, you will find the 297-part F388B movement with a silicon balance and hairspring. Like the special edition, the caliber features a rotor in the shape of a propeller. In a wise move, the brand’s designers decided to swap the gold rotor of the limited edition for one that fits the overall aesthetic of the case and the rest of the movement much better.
The integrated flyback chronograph movement also boasts a column wheel and vertical clutch for super smooth operation. It operates at 5Hz and, when fully wound, offers 50 hours of power reserve. The mix of different finishes is impressive and keeps you coming back to the movement to check out the intricate details that make it a joy to behold.
Why the Air Command is the better pick
With all the details out of the way, let me explain why this new Air Command is my favorite of today’s two contenders. I have already explained that I love the colors of the new Air Command. Another important element is the dial. First, the Air Command’s dial offers a refinement that the Type XX’s lacks. The Breguet dial offers a relatively in-your-face experience, while the Air Command has a nice balance between larger and smaller elements, making it the better-balanced dial.
But the big elephant in the room, of course, is the date window on the Type XX’s dial. Sure, both watches’ dials suffer from cut-off numerals, but the Breguet designers also thought cramming a date window in between the 4 and 5 o’clock numerals was a good idea. Then, they even added “Swiss Made” below the date window.
As a result, the numeral at 5 o’clock is also cut off. What you end up with, then, is the left side of the dial without any cut-off numerals and the right side with three of them due to the larger sub-dial and the date aperture. While the larger sub-dial is historically correct, the date window is a clear design faux pas.
The final choice for the Air Command is easy
It makes the already busy dial of the Type XX look super strange. It’s a shame, really, because what could have been great now feels awkward and puzzling. But it makes choosing the titanium Blancpain Air Command easy for me, and that’s why I would spend my hard-earned €22,450 on this new green version of the watch every day of the week, especially on Sunday. But tell me, Daan, what makes the Breguet Type XX the better pick for you?
Daan: Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067
Well, Jorg, let me explain, and I’ll start by pointing out what bothers me about that Blancpain Air Command of yours. The 2019 re-edition of the Blancpain Air Command was based on an ultra-rare original from the late ’50s. Apart from its size, that first re-edition stayed quite true to the original watch. It was a bit bigger, but in terms of character and charm, it was very close to its inspiration. Sure, the propeller-shaped rotor on the back was perhaps a bit much, but it was a daring and fun wink from the design team.
However, with that monstrosity of yours in titanium and green, I feel they took it a bridge too far. I guess they tried to reimagine a Blancpain Air Command for modern times. But if they wanted to do that, I think they should’ve come up with a completely redesigned case and dial. Simply using a more advanced material and a contemporary color doesn’t suddenly make it a modern watch. Don’t get me wrong; I think it looks good, and the lightweight case makes it wear comfortably. But I think the modern color and material are out of place in this homage to the 1950s Air Command.
Breguet Type XX ref. 21326 (ca. 1974) — Image: Artcurial
Contemporary versions that stay true to the original
I much prefer the evolution that the Breguet Type XX experienced over the years. Simply take a look at RJ’s introduction article for last year’s new Type XX/Type 20. His quick overview of previous references shows that the designers tried to stay true to the original while also considering the contemporary context of the watches. That resulted in some interesting references, such as the Type XX ref. 21326 (ca. 1974) with a completely different case and bezel design.
After that, the designers decided to stay closer to the Type XX/Type 20 models from the ’50s and ’60s. The current Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 is another example of that. However, it is updated with a brand-new movement that withstands today’s magnetic fields and can rest for a weekend without running out of power. And no, I’m also not a fan of the interruptive date window at 4:30. But, as RJ also tried to explain, it might simply be that watches with a date window sell better than ones without it.
Ceramic vs. steel
The final thing that makes me prefer the Breguet over the Blancpain is the bezel. I’m a sucker for all-steel bezels in general. They give a rugged look to a stainless steel watch. The ceramic bezel insert on the Blancpain might be more resistant to scratches, but these are tool watches. They serve a certain purpose, and I don’t mind the scratches on the polished bezel of the Breguet to remind me of that. In addition, I also feel the function represented by the bezel on the Breguet is much more useful than the one on the Blancpain.
The Blancpain has a 60-minute countdown bezel. That’s useful when you cook your pasta or bake a pizza. However, there’s no alarm to tell you the timer is finished, so you can easily forget to check the time and have overcooked pasta or a burnt pizza. I much prefer setting a timer on my phone, hands-free using Siri, with a loud and clear alarm at the end of it.
The Breguet Type XX, on the other hand, offers you the ability to track another time zone. That’s not something you constantly need to pay attention to or set multiple times a day. You simply set it, and it’s there when you need it. In my eyes, that’s way more useful than the countdown bezel on the Blancpain.
Cast your votes!
So, there you have it. Both Jorg and Daan made their arguments, and now it’s time for you to vote. Are you on Team Jorg because you also can’t stand the Breguet’s date window and you’re a fan of the Blancpain Air Command in titanium and green? Or are you on Team Daan because you like the true-to-the-original look and don’t mind the functional date window on the already cluttered dial? Cast your vote now, and let us know in the comments below why you chose one or the other.
