Sunday Morning Showdown: Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Vs. IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40
It’s Sunday again, so it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. Mike and Jorg go head to head in a battle over integrated-bracelet sports watches this week. Two weeks ago, we had a similar match-up when Vacheron’s 222 went up against the Royal Oak. This week, two more famous watches in the same category fight for the win. The main difference between these watches and the two contenders that battled it out two weeks ago is their price. Both the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 and Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm are much more affordable than their famous peers. But which of the two would you pick? Get yourself a cup of coffee, and let’s get going!
This week’s battle was sparked by the release of the two Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm models. It’s only been a couple of weeks since Lex wrote the review of these two, which, at first glance, look like normal Laureatos. Admittedly, that’s also what they are. However, the two new models were a great reminder that the smaller size works wonders for the Laureato. In today’s showdown, the Midnight Blue version goes up against the blue-dial IWC Ingenieur that came out last year. IWC added it to the current Ingenieur collection that debuted at Watches and Wonders in 2023. With prices less than €3,000 apart, these two watches are direct competitors for fans of the genre. But which one will come out on top? Let’s find out.
Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
But first, let’s take a look at last week’s results. In that Sunday Morning Showdown, Daan got rid of the ugly smell of defeat that had followed him around for quite a while in the battles against Thomas. His Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina took the win in a direct match-up against Thomas’s Chopard L.U.C XPS ref. 161948-5001. Having said that, it was a close one. In the end, the Omega took the victory with 52% of the votes and left the Chopard with 48%. The comments showed a similar divide, and people certainly had something to say about both watches! In the end, the modern remake of the classic Seamaster won, and that’s what it is all about in our Sunday Morning Showdown series. It’s time to find out who will be crowned king this week. Over to Mike and Jorg.
Jorg: Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Midnight Blue
It’s confession time for me, Mike. In the past, I have expressed my love for Gérald Genta’s Ingenieur on multiple occasions. I even wrote a long article about why the classic Ingenieur SL ref. 1832 is so much more than just a watch. It’s a personal story connected to my dad’s career as a mechanical engineer, which gives the watch so much more significance than many others.
In that article from three years ago, I asked IWC to bring back that classic Ingenieur. And 14 months later, the brand answered the call with the new Ingenieur Automatic 40. I even picked it for a previous installment of our Sunday Morning Showdown series, in which it went up against the Zenith Defy Skyline. So, what happened, and why isn’t it my pick in today’s battle?
The answer is the sum of the effect of both of today’s contenders. Let’s start with the current IWC Ingenieur. After an initial smile upon its debut, the past two years have gone by, and I’ve hardly thought about the watch. Yes, IWC did a great job optimizing Genta’s classic design and integrating some modern design tweaks that make it work well. But the watch also lacks the character and charm of the original. It’s almost too clean. Over time, then, my initial excitement gave way to indifference. Every time I see the watch, I like it, but it hasn’t found a lasting place in my heart. It’s the missing character that, for me, causes the current Ingenieur to fall short compared to the classic ref. 1832.
What do you actually get for the money?
On top of that, I — and many others — have made remarks about what you get for your money. It’s widely known that the bracelet is not executed as well as some of the competitors’ bracelets at a similar price point. It doesn’t feel as sturdy and is not impressively finished. If I were to throw down €12,900, I would expect the bracelet to be a lot better. And that’s where the Girard-Perregaux Laureato comes into play. At €15,700, yes, it’s more expensive than the IWC Ingenieur. However, what you get in return more than makes up for the €2,800 difference.
But before we get into the fact-based reasons why I prefer the Laureato, let me elaborate on the impact it had on me. We had seen a 38mm version of the stainless steel Laurato before. But the copper-dial version of the watch that came out in 2022 quickly lost its spot in the spotlight after an abundance of initial praise. Three years on, Girard-Perregaux introduced the new Sage Green and Midnight Blue variants to remind us of the brilliance of the 38mm Laureato.
Two things stood out for all of us in the office. First, the 38mm size is great for the Laureato. As most of you will know, the regular Laureato has a 42mm diameter, and that is on the brink of being too big. The 38mm size hits the sweet spot for wrists of most sizes, including mine. The overall balance of its elements is spot on as well, as Thor explained in his article about the copper-dial variant.
The Laureato is an impressively detailed watch
Once on the wrist, I found the 38mm Laureato’s visual impact super impressive. It hit me with a series of visual details to confirm that Girard-Perregaux is a step up from IWC. Even in the office, I could appreciate the great finishing of the case and bracelet with their mix of brushed and polished surfaces. On top of that, they accentuate the beautifully flowing lines of the tonneau-shaped case with its characteristic bezel and seamlessly integrated bracelet.
Once I stepped outside in the sunlight, that’s when the dial revealed its brilliance. The beautiful deep blue hue in combination with the hobnail pattern immediately catches attention, and the hands and applied indexes provide a nice shimmer depending on how the light hits them against the classy background. Outside is also where the mix of finishes is even more impressive. I instantly fell in love with the watch because of its visual impact.
Girard-Perregaux is far more refined than IWC
To be honest, this point was a bit of a surprise. In the past, I have criticized the Laureato’s retro feel and the typography on the dial. That’s why I favored the Laureato with a black onyx dial, which we find in the current 42mm pink gold version and the former Infinity version created for Wempe. But the two new dials proved me completely wrong as they were the stars of the show. Plus, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm is quite spectacular overall. It presents the full package in terms of size, comfort, finishing, and details. It shows that the Laureato is simply a far more refined timepiece than the current Ingenieur. It’s that eye for detail that also doesn’t make you question the overall quality. It’s an easy step up from the Ingenieur.
Lastly, in terms of the movement, I also prefer the in-house GP03300 caliber over the IWC’s caliber 32111. The Laureato’s automatic movement is a proper in-house caliber rather than a Richemont-shared one. The Ingenieur’s caliber is the non-COSC version of the Baume & Mercier Baumatic movement that Cartier and Panerai also use. While it offers a modern construction and an impressive 120 hours of power reserve, it lacks the character and history of the GP03300. Girard-Perregaux’s caliber is outdated in terms of technology, but with its proven track record and the added visual attraction of a pink gold rotor, I still prefer it much more. Yes, this has become a long story, Mike. But as you will understand, I would pick the Laureato 38mm every time. But please let the people know why I’m wrong.
Mike: IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 in blue
I admit that the Laureato 38mm makes a compelling case. Its smaller size transforms a watch created when the industry was unsure about diameters into a highly wearable timepiece. However, I’m here to talk about the Ingenieur Automatic 40. IWC revealed its revived integrated-bracelet sports watch at Watches and Wonders in 2023. Some would say it was a badly kept secret as rumors swirled for months before the pivotal show. Still, most of us were relieved to see IWC back in the fold with a competitive entry.
The black- and white-dial Ingenieur Automatic 40 variants from 2023
Classic looks
The latest Ingenieur came after a strange period of ’60s-inspired IWC watches. The rest of the luxury market found tremendous success with ’70s integrated-bracelet throwbacks, which made it confounding that IWC took so long to jump on the bandwagon. When the brand finally chose to do so in 2023, the new Ingenieur Automatic 40 arrived as an updated ode to the original ref. Ingenieur SL ref. 1832 from 1976. Like many other iconic sporty pieces of the era, the original watch came from the pen of Gérald Genta.
Slight differences from the original
The Ingenieur Automatic 40 restores the grid-pattern dial and is available in multiple colors, the newest of which is blue. Four stainless steel models are available alongside a titanium version. Two key differences separate the modern edition from its ancestor. IWC chose to add crown guards and changed the case design to accept an end link instead of creating the case with a built-in male end link. The latter decision results in a better-articulating bracelet and a nice 45.7mm lug-to-lug length. The 10.8mm thickness is reasonable, and the 100m depth rating is entirely practical for everyday use.
A corporate movement, but so what?
The automatic IWC 32111 caliber works away under an all-steel screw-in case back. Jorg laments the fact that the watch has a movement shared by other Richemont-owned brands, such as Panerai. I’m not sure I care because it’s an amazing engine. Specs such as 120 hours of power reserve, a frequency of 28,800vph, and adjustments in five positions make this a convincing choice.
A sweet bracelet
The H-link bracelet looks the part on the Ingenieur, but its makeup is worth mentioning. In keeping with a dressier look, the watch has a semi-hidden push-button folding clasp. Adjusting the links, though, is a classy affair. The watch uses small buttons on the underside of each link, a clever mechanism in place since the ’90s.
Best of all, the Ingenieur looks great
Thus far, I’ve held off on discussing the most important aspect of the Ingenieur. Namely, it looks great! So many of us have been waiting for IWC to release a clear winner, and this watch easily qualifies. The dial, the overall proportions, and the movement make it desirable. It’s the kind of watch that reminds me of the ’90s when IWC had a killer, highly focused catalog. At €12,900 for the latest blue-dial variant, the Ingenieur isn’t inexpensive, but it undercuts the Laureato by nearly €3,000. That’s a healthy difference and one that benefits the IWC.
Choose your integrated-bracelet companion
Now it’s time to choose. It’s a battle between two luxury integrated-bracelet watches that aren’t the Royal Oak or Nautilus. The Laureato 38mm and Ingenieur Automatic 40 have their positives, so it ultimately comes down to which you find more attractive and could see yourself wearing. Cast your vote wisely, and let us know why you selected the watch you did in the comments section below.
