Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko SBGH347 Vs. Rolex Datejust 36 Ref. 126200
It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for breakfast with a classic Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, Mike and Jorg go head to head with two great mid-sized daily wearers from Rolex and Grand Seiko. One is the latest generation of the classic 36mm Rolex Datejust with a domed bezel. It will go up against the recently introduced 37mm Grand Seiko SBGH347. Which of the two will come out on top? That is up to you to decide.
Each of today’s picks represents the perfect “entry-level” daily wearer from its respective brand. Compared to other Rolex and Grand Seiko watches, these are relatively affordable. The new Grand Seiko SBGH347 will be available in October for €6,900, and the Rolex Datejust can be yours for €7,700. Therefore, they represent an important segment of watches for people looking for an accessible timepiece from a reputable brand. But both also represent completely different mindsets. We’ll probably also see that reflected in today’s parts from Mike, who chose the Rolex, and Jorg, who will make his case for the Grand Seiko. Let’s find out!
Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
But before we do, let’s recap last week’s battle. The brand-new Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA079 won with 60% of the votes, leaving the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 with 40%. Going over the comments gave a similar view of the battle. Most people agreed with Jorg that the new Marinemaster represents a lineage of industry-defining dive watches. It’s a big reason people feel more connected to the Marinemaster than the Aquis. However, the latter does well based on the overall quality and the much-respected Oris Calibre 400. But in the end, Seiko won comfortably, despite the initial stages having been quite close.
Jorg: Grand Seiko SBGH347
My pick for today’s battle was a surprising release for me. Grand Seiko has many watches that could be a perfect entry-level daily wearer. But this one stood out immediately for two reasons. First, it is because of the nicely sized 37mm case combined with the ice-blue dial. It makes the watch stand out immediately. On the dial is also where you find a clue as to why I like this watch a lot. The SBGH347 is powered by a Hi-Beat movement, which is a big reason for me to buy a Grand Seiko.
As a result, this Grand Seiko SBGH347 is the full package. It’s all I could want from a comfortable daily watch. And if we put the SBGH347 next to today’s contender, there is another big reason for me to choose the Grand Seiko: it is much more refined. Its refinement stands out in the overall style as well as the finishing of the different elements. To elaborate further, let’s look at some details.
The details of the Grand Seiko SBGH347
The new SBGH347 has a 37mm Ever-Brilliant Steel case that is 13.3mm thick and measures 44.6mm from lug to lug. The watch is perfectly proportioned on my wrist, although I must say that I wouldn’t have minded it being slightly thinner. Then again, the case’s sculpture is wonderful, and the finishing is nothing short of impressive. Grand Seiko truly does not cut any corners when making sure all the watches look fantastic.
For the SBGH347, the designers chose Zaratsu polishing for most of the case’s surfaces, including the sides and the bezel. Only the tops of the lugs are vertically brushed, and they flow nicely into the comfortable bracelet with its predominantly brushed top surface and polished sides.
As we know from Grand Seiko, the inspiration for the beautiful blue dial comes from Japanese nature. Specifically, the dial was inspired by frozen Nanataki Falls in Iwate Prefecture, where the Grand Seiko Studio is located. Mike, Gerard, RJ, and I have poked fun at Grand Seiko’s endless nature inspiration in the past, but if the result is a dial like this one, I honestly don’t mind reading another story about where the concept came from.
The icy blue color combined with the vertically brushed texture looks super classy and easily beats any Datejust options. The applied indices, sharp dauphine hands, and framed date window give the watch a refinement that makes it look better than the Datejust. I have never been a fan of the Rolex Cyclops, especially on the 36mm Datejust, so to see the nicely framed date window on the Grand Seiko is another reason to prefer the SBGH347.
The Hi-Beat Grand Seiko 9S85 caliber
Another big factor is the Hi-Beat movement that powers the SBGH347. The in-house automatic caliber 9S85 operates at 36,000vph, offers 55 hours of power reserve, and has 37 jewels. Thanks to the display case back, you can see the beautiful movement in action, and on the front, you’ll witness the magic of a sweeping seconds hand hovering above the gorgeous dial. It’s one of the many details that make this Grand Seiko SBGH347 stand out from the Rolex Datejust ref. 126200 and why I prefer it.
This brings me to my last point: I would gladly spend my €6,900 on the Grand Seiko SBGH347, but I wouldn’t pay €7,700 for this specific Datejust. When choosing a Datejust, it’s all about the fluted bezel and the Jubilee bracelet. This just looks too much like an Oyster Perpetual with a date window and the unwanted Cyclops.
Knowing that the Oyster Perpetual is much more affordable at €6,300 and my preferred Datejust is €9,400, it leaves this Datejust 36 ref. 126200 in limbo. And that is not a good place to be. That’s why I would choose the Grand Seiko every time. But I would love to hear your thoughts, Mike!
Image: The Watch Club
Mike: Rolex Datejust 36 ref. 126200
Jorg makes some great points about the SBGH347, and it’s undoubtedly a great addition to the Grand Seiko lineup. Still, there’s nothing quite like a Datejust when choosing the ultimate dressy yet sporty watch. Granted, most folks envision a fluted white gold bezel and Jubilee bracelet when thinking about the model, but the smooth 126200 on an Oyster bracelet is a more understated, sportier option.
Image: Watch Club
Of any modern Rolex, this is the model for me
I’m outspoken about my relative ennui regarding the current Rolex lineup. The thicker case designs and bright detailing don’t appeal to me. Thankfully, when the newest 36mm Rolex Datejust models were released in 2019, it marked the return of a more elegant case design. The lugs are slender again, and the watches are supremely comfortable. If I were in the market for a new Rolex, the 126200 with a mint-green dial would be the choice.
While I enjoy a Datejust with a fluted bezel, I’m happy that the smooth option hasn’t been forgotten. Rolex has increasingly moved upmarket, so a Datejust with a steel bezel feels like an outlier. It means there’s still the chance to buy a more elemental Rolex. Plus, the color options are wonderful.
The calibre 3235 is a powerhouse
I enjoy a high-beat movement like Grand Seiko’s 9S85, but there’s no denying the goodness of the Rolex caliber 3235. This automatic movement runs like an indestructible appliance. In other words, it may not be as sexy with its 28,800vph frequency, but it’s a certified chronometer and has 70 hours of power reserve. Of course, this watch will rarely leave your wrist, so the power reserve numbers are somewhat meaningless.
Image: Watch Club
Rolex still makes the best bracelets
While I’m tough on modern Rolex, the brand still produces the best bracelets in the watch industry. Somehow, Rolex has managed to keep the Jubilee and Oyster thin but sturdy. Then, if we juxtapose the fluidity and quality against the Grand Seiko’s bracelet, the margin widens further. I love a Grand Seiko, but as others have mentioned, the bracelets are disappointing and lacking for a high-end watch. The rest of the finishing on the Datejust is also praiseworthy. Rolex may not boast about Zaratsu, but I’ve always been impressed with the high level of consistency for a volume luxury product.
Image: Ticking Way
The on-wrist experience of a 36mm Oyster case…
Coupled with the perfect bracelet, few watches can match the feeling of on-wrist perfection like a 36mm Oyster case. Adding a smooth bezel only integrates the watch more with one’s anatomy. Then, there’s the thickness. While other brands struggle to make a reasonably thin automatic watch, Rolex asks you to hold its beer while serving up 11.7mm beauties all day long. You can dislike Rolex or the challenge of buying one, but if you’re okay with a 36mm watch, there’s nothing better. Regarding the Cyclops, I was once a hater, but I now see it as a design hallmark. And as someone whose eyes border on useless, the magnifier is a boon.
Final thoughts
I mentioned the collective frustration that remains with trying to buy a Rolex. However, many will tell you that the wait for a basic Datejust like the 126200 is no longer as much of an issue. When we discuss pricing, a difference of €800 between the 126200 and the SBH347 is likely not a difference maker. I dislike resale discussions, but the Rolex will almost certainly retain more value and be easier to move on should the wearer have a change of heart. In the end, I wouldn’t fault anyone for choosing the Grand Seiko if the watch has more appeal. For me, though, I’d choose the Datejust 36 ref. 126200 every single time. Then again, like you, I only get to vote once. Choose your favorite by voting below, and let us know why you picked it in the comments.
