Sunday Morning Showdown: No-Date Divers — Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Vs. Rolex Submariner
Indeed, we already put the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M up against the Rolex Submariner in March of this year. Surprisingly, it was the first time those two classics faced each other during one of our Sunday Morning Showdowns. However, those two watches both had a date. With this week’s introduction of the new black no-date version of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, we think there’s a good opportunity for a rematch against the current no-date Rolex Submariner.
The new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M not only lacks a date, but it also has an aluminum bezel insert and dial and a different bracelet. This year’s first battle between the Omega Seamaster and the Rolex Submariner resulted in a balanced 50-50 voting outcome. Let’s see if the dateless version of that same battle leads to a completely different result.
Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
But first, let’s check what happened in last week’s installment of our Sunday Morning Showdown. It was a battle between two vintage-inspired GMT sports watches, the Tudor Black Bay 58 and the Laventure Transatlantique II GMT. Of course, these are two watches made by two very different companies. Tudor has been around since 1926, and Laventure was founded only seven years ago. Also, there’s a big difference between the number of watches these companies produce. But in the end, they are two vintage-inspired GMT watches, and we thought it was a good idea to put them head to head.
The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT prevailed with 73% of the votes. Most of you thought it offered more value for money. But it’s nice that some Laventure owners also shared their thoughts on this in the comments. They showed that buying a watch isn’t always about getting the most value for money but also about the emotional connection you have with it. Now, let’s see what Daan and Thomas have to say about today’s contestants.
Daan: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M ref. 210.30.42.20.01.010/003
When I first saw the images of Daniel Craig at the Paris Olympics, I secretly hoped he had a smaller new Seamaster on his wrist. Unfortunately, now we know he didn’t. It was indeed a new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, but it still had the same 42mm case as before. Honestly, I find both watches in today’s battle a bit too large for my 17cm wrist. So for me, it comes down to a choice between their designs.
Image: The Watch Club
Of course, the Rolex Submariner is an all-time classic. Its recognizable design has slowly evolved to what it is today — an icon. Many other watches took inspiration from the Rolex Submariner. However, in the end, nothing even comes close to the Submariner’s design. You can spot the Oyster case and bracelet together with the unidirectional bezel and the iconic dial layout from a mile away. In addition, the quality of Rolex watches is still unparalleled. They feel so solid both in the hand and on the wrist.
However, if I had to choose between the current no-date Rolex Submariner and the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M I’d go for the latter. Let me explain, Thomas.
A love-it-or-hate-it design
I know Omega’s Seamaster 300M doesn’t even come close to the Submariner’s celebrity status. Its ’90s design is much less timeless, and I feel you either love it or you hate it. I don’t think there’s anyone out there who can’t stand the Submariner’s classic design. On the contrary, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M’s twisted lugs, skeletonized hands, helium escape valve, and wave dial stir up a lot more debate. Nevertheless, I like the 300M’s quirkier design. I think it somehow all comes together nicely, especially on this new version.
I was lucky enough to attend the introduction of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond 60th Anniversary in London. It was great to go hands-on with that clean blue version of the Seamaster Diver 300M. I love its no-date layout without any color accents, the finely textured wave dial, and the less shiny aluminum bezel insert. However, the animation on the back was a bit too much for me. But now there’s the newly introduced Seamaster Diver 300M in black without that animation. I much prefer this cleaner, monochrome version over the “regular” Seamaster Diver 300M with a black ceramic dial and bezel insert.
Aluminum or ceramic?
That brings me to the aluminum vs. ceramic debate. Apart from its size, my biggest gripe with the current Rolex Submariner is its shiny ceramic bezel insert. I guess these watches are luxury objects, so they “should” have some bling, but I much prefer a brushed ceramic insert or an old-school aluminum one, as we find on the new Seamaster Diver 300M. Yes, I know ceramic is more resistant to scratches, and it will look like new, even after many years. But I simply like the matte look of an aluminum bezel insert better.
I guess Omega could’ve also equipped the new Seamaster Diver 300M with a brushed ceramic bezel insert, but I like the fact that the aluminum one will show its wear after a few years, just like the rest of the watch. And if you want the watch to look new again badly enough, you can send it in for a polish and a new bezel insert. But it’s certainly not all hosanna with the new Seamaster Diver 300M.
Oyster over mesh every time
One thing I can’t really get behind is Seamaster’s mesh bracelet. It looks quite cool and enhances the vintage vibe I think Omega is looking for with this series of 300Ms. On the wrist, though, it just doesn’t do it for me. The folding clasp is too clunky, and the mesh doesn’t articulate or taper very nicely around my wrist. Rolex’s Oyster bracelet, on the other hand, is tried and tested and honestly feels like one of the most solid and best bracelets in the industry.
Fortunately, Omega also offers the new Seamaster 300M on its excellent black curved-end rubber strap. Its slightly brushed surface looks great in combination with the rest of the matte detailing of the new 300M. It also nicely maintains the overall monochromatic look and wears very comfortably. Another bonus is that it also keeps the price of the new Seamaster Diver 300M down to an acceptable €6,600 (€7,200 on the mesh bracelet). On the strap, it’s almost €3,000 cheaper than the Submariner on its Oyster bracelet, which currently sells for €9,500 — well, only if the boutique manager is willing to sell it to you, of course.
So, if you’d ask me, I’d go for the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M over the current no-date Rolex Submariner ref. 124060 any day of the week. But I guess you, Thomas, have a very different opinion on this matter.
Thomas: Rolex Submariner ref. 124060
Indeed I do, Daan, although, reading between the lines, I get the feeling you kind of agree with my pick. Let me start cordially by stating I love the new Seamasters. Finally, Omega released a watch with fewer embellishments rather than more. Gone are the shiny bits and the red accents, and in come the beautiful matte textures and simpler lines. These are easily my favorite Omega releases in years.
Unfortunately, as you already mentioned, the proportions have not been addressed. I don’t mind a big dive watch — I have owned and enjoyed 44mm and 45mm divers. A 42mm diameter by itself isn’t that oversized for a dive watch. It is the way the Seamaster carries itself that is a bit cumbersome. Something about its length, thickness, and flatness makes it appear way larger on the wrist than its measurements suggest. Like you, I find it looks bad on my forearm. (Cue the angry comments attacking our manhood.)
The no-date Submariner is much more universally wearable. Admittedly, it doesn’t fit as gracefully as its pre-ceramic ancestors, but hey, we live in 2024, and we have to accept reality. I find it wears elegantly, even on my smallish 17.5cm wrist.
Try not to think of a no-date Submariner
I reckon “Try not to think of a Rolex no-date Submariner” might be the most uttered phrase in watch-design studios ever. It seems classical dive-watch design peaked in the early 1950s. Many later contestants look like convoluted attempts to do things differently or simply like homages. The Seamaster is of the former type, with all its fuzzy, unnecessary details. When I shift my gaze from the Seamaster to the Submariner, I can feel the muscles around my eyes, and even my brain, relax.
Why is it so good? Because the Submariner is the simplest design solution to the challenge at hand. If you set out to create a watch for divers with perfect legibility in the dark, a dive-time bezel, great water resistance, reliability, and daily wearability, the simplest possible solution looks like a Rolex no-date Submariner.
This is the archetypal shape for a reason. Removing anything from the Sub without compromising its performance is very hard. This is why it became iconic. I feel it is one of the very few watches truly deserving of that moniker. It also makes it completely timeless. Rolex performs the mandatory updates every decade or so, and it just remains relevant.
Perhaps the best everyday watch on the market from a technical perspective
If I had to describe the Sub’s engineering in one word, it would be “virtuoso.” The no-date Submariner is just so effortless. Daan, you already alluded to the bracelets, and they indeed offer a prime example. The Omega mesh is complicated, bulky, and prone to issues. The modern Oyster is, in my view, the best bracelet ever made. It is simple and indestructible, and it feels as if it articulates on oiled ceramic ball bearings. You, Daan, would have to opt for the rubber strap, which is very cool, but it is also a choice out of compromise, not luxury.
The superior tactile sensation extends across all daily operations, like rotating the bezel or operating the crown. Everything feels confident and assertive. Even with your eyes closed, your fingertips will tell you that you bought a very expensive watch when operating the Sub.
The same goes for the movement. If I am buying a watch for long-term, hard everyday wear, I want either a simple Sellita/ETA or a Rolex movement. Why? Because they were designed and engineered to be ultimately reliable and serviceable. They aren’t the type of beauties you would put behind a display case back, but they just toil away for decades.
Which to choose?
Admittedly, Daan, I am tempted by the new Seamaster Diver 300M models. They are very attractive and cool. If I were saving up for a Submariner, I would probably hear the lure of these Seamasters as I crossed the €6K mark. In fact, they are more interesting and less predictable than the no-date Submariner. Heck, I might even find them more attractive, period.
However, if you have been around the block in the watch world, you may find your buying process changing. You learn that the next shiny object may trigger infatuation, but you may not end up loving it long-term. With the Seamaster, you buy the hot thing of the moment, but what if Omega releases a version on a better bracelet or in a 39mm case? A Rolex Submariner is perhaps a bit boring, but you know that you will enjoy it for life, whatever version/generation you get. This, to me, makes it the watch to get out of these two.
Time to vote!
There you have it — two super cool no-date dive watches with stark monochromatic themes. Which would be your pick? Cast your vote, and share your motivations in the comments section below!
