Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38mm Vs. Tudor Black Bay 54

It’s a summer Sunday morning, so grab your caramel Frappuccino, and get ready for a battle rooted in history. We’re kidding, of course; an early morning battle like this requires a double espresso. But we weren’t kidding about the history-injected showdown that we are presenting to you this morning. We paired the latest 38mm Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 with the Tudor Black Bay 54. These are two popular dive watches with plenty of retro charm and proprietary movements. So grab your double espresso, and let’s get into it.

It was quite the wait before Oris brought the 38mm Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 to its regular collection. But two years after introducing the Chronos Limited Edition, the brand from Hölstein finally introduced a new green-dial version of the same watch. While it’s technically only a new dial variant, this release has far greater relevance in terms of commercial potential. With a smaller case and a stainless steel bezel, Jorg’s pick for this week seems to hit the mark perfectly. But will that be enough to beat Mike’s pick, the popular Tudor Black Bay 54, in a head-to-head showdown? The smallest of the Black Bay dive models was showered with compliments during Watches and Wonders last year. One year on, will it prove to be the same hit it was a year ago? Let’s find out!

Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…

Before we get into this week’s battle, let’s quickly look back at last week’s showdown. In it, another Oris watch took the win. The brand’s Aquis Date Calibre 400 earned 59% of the votes, giving Thomas a comfortable victory and leaving Daan’s TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date with just 41%. The comments reflected that outcome, showing great appreciation for the Oris Calibre 400 and the better overall design with a superior integration of details, such as the date window. Let’s find out if Oris can make it two in a row against the super-popular Black Bay 54. Over to Mike and Jorg…

Jorg: Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38mm

Let me dive right in and confess that I don’t expect to win this battle. Any battle against a watch from Tudor is tough, particularly if the two contenders are in the same price segment. But that doesn’t mean I feel that the Oris shouldn’t win. It’s the interesting juxtaposition of a personal preference versus the popular vote. Despite going up against the popular Black Bay 54, the new Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 in the 38mm size is easily my preferred pick. Let me explain why I would pick this Oris over that Tudor with €4K in my pocket to spend on a watch.

Lex’s Divers Sixty-Five Momotaro Special Edition

I have always liked the Divers Sixty-Five. It’s a charming vintage-inspired diver that wears like a charm and looks good in almost any configuration. Whether it’s our Fratello Limited Edition, Lex’s Momotaro Special Edition, the two-tone bronze and steel models, or Thomas Stover’s 12H Calibre 400, they all look fantastic! This has made me consider buying a Divers Sixty-Five multiple times.

The Divers Sixty-Five Chronos Limited Edition

But that feeling was never stronger when I saw the Divers Sixty-Five Chronos Limited Edition. The smaller 38mm case with the stainless steel bezel, the icy blue gradient dial, and the brand’s proprietary Calibre 400 made for a stunning release. The hot sauce on this creation was the steel bezel, which gave it just the right amount of kick to make it stand out immediately.

A thing for stainless steel bezels

But Oris never followed up on that release with a regular-production model. We did see the steel bezel return on the Cotton Candy releases, and it is probably no surprise that I also love those. I wholeheartedly confess that I have developed a thing for stainless steel bezels.

For years, I had never been a huge fan of that aesthetic. But tastes change over time, and so do the preferences for certain watches. Most recently, I have thoroughly enjoyed “test-driving” the Tudor Black Bay Pro, another watch that gloriously benefits from the aesthetic of a stainless steel bezel.

The bezel plays a big part in immediately making this Divers Sixty-Five stand out from the crowd. But it would be too simple to make that the deciding factor in today’s battle. What I love about the Oris is that it has a charm and welcoming presence defined by the nicely proportioned case. The stainless steel skin-diver-style case measures a versatile 38mm across, 45.7mm long, and 12.6mm thick. While the numbers are not that far off from the Black Bay 54, it’s the combination of the sculpture and details of the case that gives it a more attractive profile. We all know that Tudor watches suffer from slab-sided cases and, therefore, look chunkier and less elegant.

There is no discussion about the vintage styling

Another thing that Oris has nailed with the Divers Sixty-Five is the natural feeling of a vintage-inspired watch. We all know it’s rooted in the past but it doesn’t force an overtly retro presence on you. With Tudor, there is always a lot of discussion about the injection of vintage style in the different Black Bay models. Thomas openly addressed it in his review of the Black Bay 54, and I agree with him that it can feel unnatural. Funnily enough, I never have that discussion with people about the Divers Sixty-Five, and that says a lot. It’s clear where its roots are, but the dose of injected vintage elements never defines it. It just “is.”

In that ever-ongoing discussion about Tudor, I prefer the absence of vintage bells and whistles. That’s why the Black Bay Master Chronometer in black presented during Watches and Wonders this year is my favorite Tudor Black Bay diver. I’ll have that on an Oyster-style bracelet any day of the week over the Black Bay 54. And the same goes for the Divers Sixty-Five in this battle.

While on the subject of bracelets and vintage styling, hopefully, you all know that Oris equips the Divers Sixty-Five with a bracelet using actual rivets. This is in contrast to Tudor’s bracelets, which use faux rivets. On top of that, the Oris bracelet comes with half links for better sizing options. So it’s safe to say the Oris bracelet is superior in combining presence and purpose.

The Calibre 400 that powers the Divers Sixty-Five

Another plus that this €3,600 Divers Sixty-Five offers is the impressive Calibre 400, which is visible through the display case back. We have repeatedly written about the brand’s proprietary movement since it came out. As a short reminder, the self-winding Calibre 400 operates at 28,800vph, has 31 jewels, and offers an impressive 120 hours of power reserve thanks to its twin-barrel construction. On top of that, the antimagnetic properties also outperform the Kenissi MT5400 caliber that powers the Black Bay 54. The official accuracy Oris states is -3/+5 seconds per day, which is within chronometer certification. Owners of Calibre 400-powered watches regularly state even better and more impressive numbers than that.

It has resulted in a Divers Sixty-Five that is the full package. This 38mm version with its stainless steel bezel has the looks and a great caliber, and it wears like a charm. It also features a beautiful, lush green dial that gives it even more presence compared to the relatively boring Black Bay 54. The combination of vibrant colors and a stainless steel bezel gives Oris a wide variety of new dial options for the future.

The Divers Sixty-Five has become less of a hardcore dive watch and more of a stylish and slightly retro daily wearer that I adore. Let’s hope that Oris will continue this series of great 38mm Divers Sixty-Five models because I’d take one over the Black Bay 54 any day of the week, especially on Sunday.

Mike: Tudor Black Bay 54

The Tudor Black Bay 54 was a surprise when it was released in 2023. No one expected Tudor to offer a 37mm dive watch, but the brand has read the room regarding smaller watch sizes. The watch has been a bona fide hit, and as a big city dweller, I’m only just starting to see it for sale in shop windows. That’s a good thing for buyers but a bad thing for competitors like the Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400.

Similar on paper

On paper, both the Oris and Tudor look relatively similar. They’re two steel sub-40mm dive watches with movements containing beefy power reserves. Both feature Oyster-style bracelets with rivets (or a riveted look), external rotating bezels, and traditional dive-watch dials with loads of lume. Finally, the prices are within €400 of each other. So, is this simply a matter of choosing which watch you like better, or does the Tudor make a resounding and undoubtable case?

For many, it will be hard not to fall for a watch that looks achingly close to the original Tudor Submariner reference 7922 from 1954. While Tudor and Rolex put on a charade of trying to keep the companies separate, a watch like the Black Bay 54 makes the whole thing seem ridiculous. However, it’s part of the allure that draws folks toward Tudor no matter what anyone tells you. Buying a Tudor because it’s part of the Rolex family isn’t inherently wrong, but it would be a poser-like move if the underling brand’s watches weren’t so damn good.

The 54 improves on the Black Bay formula

The Black Bay 54 took the familiar Black Bay model and improved on it. The thickness is just 11.3mm and the case actually looks thin instead of slab-like. Then there’s the crown. Tudor chose a slim, more historically correct version that sits flush against the case. That’s a big improvement over the odd collar that Tudor has employed for most of its Black Bay models until now.

I won’t kid you, the riveted-look bracelet is unnecessary, but at least it’s well made and now contains the T-Fit clasp. The simple bezel without minute markers helps maintain a strong visual presence. The choice of a 20mm lug spacing was a masterstroke for strap fans and those who like a larger-looking watch. All in all, this is a great watch, and if the dimensions work for your wrist, it’s impossible to ignore.

Nothing against the Oris, but…

I own a 40mm steel and bronze Divers Sixty-Five and it’s a lovely watch. It’s comfortable, elegant, and beautifully crafted. It’s also several years old and uses a Sellita movement. Some have refused to buy into the idea of a €3,600 Oris because it has an in-house-designed movement with 120 hours of power reserve and boasts chronometer-level accuracy. Here’s my take: I’m fine with an Oris at this price level. I struggle because this watch looks exactly like the Sixty-Five with a Sellita. For nearly double the price, I want something different because, let’s face it, the Sixty-Five existed for years as an affordable diver.

With Tudor, the Kenissi MT5400 has an actual chronometer certification and 70 hours of power reserve. Those attributes are more than enough for most buyers. Another beef many have with the Oris is its lightweight 100m water resistance rating. The Tudor doubles this with a 200m rating and can serve as a real diver if that’s important. Plus, at €3,970 on a bracelet, it’s not that much more expensive than the Oris.

Time to make your choice

If you choose the Tudor or the Oris, you’ll be left with a great watch that will reliably accompany you for as long as you enjoy wearing it. This isn’t a matter of price. Heck, even the looks are similar down to the bracelet design. This decision comes down to which is more appealing due to the intangibles. The movement specs and depth rating could sway the balance one way or another. It’s also a pick in favor of a brand fighting to move upmarket versus another that is quite comfortable fighting on the Rolex undercard. Which is your choice and why? Let us know below!