Sunday Morning Showdown: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time VS. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green
It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown! So make yourself a nice cup of coffee and let our writers make their cases before you get to decide which of the two watches is your favorite pick. This week, it’s the battle of the luxury travel watches. Jorg will make a case for the white gold Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time ref. 5164G. Mike will defend the honors of the pink gold Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time with the green dial. Both watches were introduced during Watches and Wonders this year and present a new take on a familiar silhouette. Which of the two will come out on top? You decide!
This week is a battle of two new watches that didn’t create too much buzz during Watches and Wonders. That’s mainly because both timepieces are variations of models that we already know. But with a spotlight on both models, we are reminded of their brilliance. The new white gold Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time ref. 5164G in blue was part of Patek’s much-debated denim drop. While the two other watches come fitted with casual “denim” straps, luckily, the Aquanaut Travel Time did not follow that example. As such, it was our favorite of the three models. The new Overseas Dual Time was part of a quartet of pink gold Overseas models with stunning green dials. The green and gold pairing showed the incredible appeal of that classic color combo. But which one is the better one? Over to Mike and Jorg to make their cases!
Last week on Sunday Morning Showdown…
Before we do, let’s take a quick look at last week’s showdown. In last Sunday’s battle, the TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox wiped the floor with the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph. The Carrera won the battle, taking 67% of the votes, leaving the Black Bay Chronograph with only 33% of your votes. In the comments section, that balance was similar. Most people who commented did not like the style of the Tudor, particularly the snowflake hands, which were an often mentioned “issue.” While the Glassbox was not hailed as the absolute best TAG Heuer has to offer, it did take last week’s crown comfortably in the end. Let’s find out if this week’s battle will also get a clear winner.
Jorg: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time ref. 5164G
We can all quickly agree that Patek’s whole “Double Denim” spiel wasn’t for us, Mike. I usually wear casual clothes, but that doesn’t mean I want my watch to have a casual denim strap. Generally, I don’t want a watch to adopt the style of my clothing, so that whole exercise seemed rather far-fetched. As Lex said in his review, the Nautilus Chronograph seemed to suffer from its new youthful look.
But in addition to the two denim faux-pas, Patek showed that the light blue color works really well for the Aquanaut Travel Time. It’s the perfect companion to the rose gold version with the brown dial that was already part of Patek’s Aquanaut line.
As I explained in our list of favorite GMT watches of the first half of 2024, the Aquanaut Travel Time is my favorite Aquanaut. I am not a fan of the time-and-date models because they are a bit too simple and boring, if you will. A big part of that is due to the shape of the case. If you want to know why Gérald Genta made the Nautilus look the way it does, I think the answer is in the design of the “standard” Aquanaut. It misses that visual attraction that the Nautilus case has. That is also why Aquanaut Travel Time works so well for me.
A color combination that works well
The case of the Travel Time changes because the Patek designers needed to integrate the travel time complication. That’s why its case benefits from the two pushers on the left side, which are functional and add just the right visual sparkle that I love. The white gold case also combines well with the blue-greyish dial and rubber strap. It gives the watch a relevance that will appeal to many watch fans. If you want the classic, more traditional option, get the rose gold version of the 5164G. But if you want a proper sporty and crisp take on the Aquanaut Travel Time, this is the one to go for.
The dial is another element that really elevates the Travel Time above the standard Aquanaut ref. 5167/8. Besides not being a fan of the standard case, I am also not a fan of the dial of those models. The combination of the dial pattern, Arabic numerals, and the minute track is too simple. It makes the pattern seem too big and prominent and the entire composition too one-dimensional. If you look closely, the pattern’s rectangles, the Arabic numerals, and the hour markers are roughly the same size. You need different sizes to add a visual layering that makes a dial attractive and has some depth.
The automatic 26-330 S C FUS caliber
The addition of the travel time complication adds extra visual sparkles, along with a date subdial at six o’clock with its mini-geosphere, the day/night indicators for local and home time, and the additional hand for the second time zone. Not only do the elements visually break the pattern, but they also add the refinement the dial needs. Thanks to that travel complication, the watch has exactly the right level of visual zing. But let’s not forget that the complication adds some cool practicality too. The 290-part self-winding 26-330 S C FUS caliber is visually stunning and offers 45 hours of power reserve.
Why do I like the Aquanaut Travel Time over the Overseas Dual Time?
The movement is housed in a white gold case measuring 40.8mm in diameter, 10.2 mm thick, and 46.5mm from lug to lug. It’s a handsomely sized case that wears well on a variety of wrist sizes. On top of that, it creates a slimmer, more elegant profile than the Overseas has. The Overseas case is similar in terms of diameter, but at 12mm thick and with a lug-to-lug of over 49mm thanks to the integrated bracelet, it looks chunky compared to some of the other Overseas models, let alone “my” Aquanaut.
Additionally, the Patek designers have done a way better job of integrating the complication on the dial side. The dial of the Overseas Dual Time looks scattered with a large AM/PM indicator at 9 o’clock, the contrasting red tip of the hand indicating the second time zone. It kills the brilliance of the stunning dial of the standard Overseas.
Looking at the Overseas Self-Winding that was also part of the same introduction, the Dual Time comes across as unbalanced, and that is why I would never pick it over the regular Overseas, or the Aquanaut Travel Time for that matter. To me, it’s a no-brainer, really. But I’d love to hear your thoughts, Mike.
Mike: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time
Thanks, Jorg! Before I discuss the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time, I’ll provide my thoughts on the Patek. The Aquanaut was released in 1997, and I remember the occasion well. My dad picked up on the news, and we promptly went to our local Mayor’s jewelers to see one. The sales pitch for the Aquanaut was funny, though. It was offered as a sporty Patek (ok, fine) and the cheapest way to get your hands on a Patek (not so fine). The rubber was also off-putting for the time and gave off Hublot or Swatch vibes. My dad didn’t buy one and cast a longing eye toward the Nautilus, the watch he actually wanted. So, the whole “affordable/cheap” vibe has stuck with me when I look at the Aquanaut.
Twenty-seven years later, who could have guessed that the sporty luxury genre would overtake the classic dress watch category of watches? In 1997, no one wore tennis shoes with a suit unless (insert airline name) lost one’s luggage on the way to a meeting. So here we are, and now the Aquanaut has grown up with complications and faces many rivals. Vacheron’s Overseas is one of them, and in this showdown, the new rose gold Dual Time is my chosen contender.
Hot take: in general, Vacheron makes a prettier watch than Patek
Based on the wearing habits of the fancy set in London, my opinion is probably with the minority, but I find the Overseas much prettier than the Aquanaut. The case design is smoother and the scalloped bezel is more refined than the clumsy “Eco-Nautilus” that is the Aquanaut. Plus, is it just me, or does the Aquanaut dial look like a cheap plastic packing tray? The Vacheron may not have a tapisserie dial, but it looks rich and luxurious.
The Patek’s dial is certainly more symmetrical, but I don’t see that as a positive. The Vacheron keeps things simple with its left-side AM/PM indicator, which is a must unless a 24-hour scale and movement are employed. Regarding its positioning, I’m ok with it on this model. That’s odd, considering my distaste for similarly designed power-reserve indicators on the dial side. Here, though, it’s a must, whereas power reserve feels relatively useless considering the longevity of modern movements. The off-kilter location refers to a need resulting from the underlying mechanicals. With its perfect symmetry, the Aquanaut feels like it could be a quartz watch.
The movement is better in the Vacheron
The Dual Time uses Vacheron’s 5110 DT/2, an automatic with 60 hours of power reserve. Compare that to the Patek’s ETA-like 45 hours of power reserve and it feels like one watch is due for an update in the engine bay. Hint: it’s not the Vacheron. Now, I think boasting about power reserve is an oversold topic, but it is a spec that feels relevant for a travel watch. Regarding movement finishing, my high-level take is that both look lovely and, thankfully, contain solid gold rotors, Geneva seals, and beaucoup bridges.
Versatility
While no one will likely look down on wearing a Patek on rubber to a suit-and-tie meeting (let’s face it, you’re likely the boss if you’re wearing it), it’s a sportier-looking watch. The Vacheron plays dress-up better with its matching gold bracelet. However, it comes standard with rubber and calfskin straps that can be easily swapped without tools. The leather maintains the formality and tones down the watch if subtlety is desired. The Patek only comes with rubber, although I’m sure it’s possible to “upgrade” to a denim Canadian Tuxedo look. Then, let’s mention water resistance. The Vacheron has a depth rating of 150 meters, while the Patek makes do with just 30 meters. For a watch with the word “Aqua” in its name, it’s odd that the Patek fails to rise above dress watch capabilities in the pool. Technically, the Vacheron could accompany its well-heeled owner on one of those “I got dive-certified in 30 minutes” dives in Bali.
On the wrist
The 41mm by 12mm Dual Time is sized perfectly for this type of model. The lug-to-lug span of 49mm is on the high side, but Vacheron’s bracelets articulate beautifully around the wrist. Besides, these sporty dress watches are supposed to make a bold but classy statement at any party.
Take your pick
Folks, you’ve heard my pitch for the Vacheron Overseas Dual Time and Jorg’s soapbox stand for the Patek Aquanaut Travel Time. The Aquanaut rings in at €61,995, and the Overseas adds two stacks of high society for a total of €82,000 due to its gold bracelet and extra straps. We doubt that price sensitivity matters in this market, but the difference is worth mentioning. It’s time for you to make a choice. Click your option and let us know why you’ve cast your vote for a specific watch in the comments section.
