Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex SPB483 Vs. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80
Welcome back to our weekly Sunday Morning Showdown series. Every Sunday morning, two writers go head to head in a battle of the ages. Mike and Jorg will go at it this week with a pair of value-driven dive watches. Both are fairly recent releases from popular brands on the more affordable side of the watch universe. Jorg picked the divisive Seiko Prospex SPB483, while Mike chose to back the 40mm Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 that came out earlier this year. It’s time for both men to go to battle while you enjoy their stories with a nice cup of coffee. In the end, you all will decide who wins!
Both of today’s watches came out this year. The Seiko Prospex SPB483 is part of a trio of new Prospex divers that introduced a new shape. The divisive octagonal bezel is a much-discussed element that didn’t win everyone over. At €1,200, this watch is slightly more expensive than Mike’s pick, but Jorg, having gone hands-on with it, will undoubtedly try to convince us why it is the better timepiece. He and the Seiko SPB483 will square off against Mike and the Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80, which debuted in a new 40mm size this past spring. This watch offers incredible value for money and the Swiss-made seal of quality that many watch fans love. On top of that, it’s only €795, so it is more affordable than its opponent. But does that guarantee a win? Let’s find out!
Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
But first, here’s a quick look back at last Sunday’s battle. In it, the Rolex Submariner ref. 124060 took the win with 62% of the votes versus 38% for the new black-dial no-date Omega Seamaster Diver 300M. But while the results showed a clear win for the Rolex, the comments gave a somewhat more nuanced view. Still, there was no doubt that the Sub was the more popular watch. People voted for the Rolex for several reasons, such as the Submariner’s history dating back to the 1950s, the superior bracelet, and it simply being the better watch. In the end, though, there is no doubt that both have a huge fan base. That also goes for both Seiko and Tissot. But which of today’s contenders will come out on top? Let’s find out…
Jorg: Seiko Prospex SPB483
Today, I have the challenging task of defending a watch that sparked many questionable reactions when it came out. The divisive SPB483 is part of a trio of new watches that Seiko launched in October. I had the pleasure of taking the watches for a spin and was surprised by how much I liked them. As I explained in my review article, we watch enthusiasts are a funny bunch. We constantly want to see new designs, but once we do, we fanatically drum up a plethora of references to prove that they look like something else. This new Seiko Prospex SPB483 also got that treatment. And for the record, I am guilty of doing it too. Immediate visual associations popped into my head as soon as I saw the octagonal bezel.
But either praising or criticizing it simply because of the bezel shape is easy — too easy. So I hope you won’t also go that route, Mike. You know how good the Seiko designers are at repeatedly making something look like a Seiko. And this SPB483 is no different. As I explained in the review, I also started thinking of familiar references at first glance. But after a few seconds, I let that go and started taking the design in for what it was — a new Seiko Prospex diver. Fairly soon, I was completely sold on this new model.
A thoroughly considered design
There are ample reasons to start with the design of the case and the bezel. The Seiko designers’ efforts to create a handsome combination of both elements are impressive. They understood that the bezel shape needed an angular case with standout lugs to make it truly special. And they succeeded in designing that rather beautifully. The watch’s profile is stunning, and the lines of the lugs are visually dramatic, creating a new silhouette that stands out immediately. But the remarkable thing is that the case profile is instantly recognizable as a Seiko diver. The typical Seiko dial enhances that feeling.
But let’s go over some basic specs before we move on. The stainless steel case measures 41.3mm in diameter, 12.5mm thick, and 48.2mm from lug to lug. While it is slightly bigger than the Tissot, I can say from experience that it doesn’t wear noticeably bigger. Still, its overall presence is a lot more dramatic. Whereas the Tissot perfectly fits the traditional but predictable dive-watch mold, the Seiko takes a turn and introduces something way more exciting. I adore the sculpted shape of the case with the dramatic lugs that flow nicely into the beautiful crown guards on the right side.
The SPB483 is unmistakably a Seiko Prospex design
The octagonal bezel works well with the case shape and features fairly rounded edges, giving it plenty of elegance. Sure, the shape is reminiscent of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer, and some will suggest a mix of Gérald Genta designs. I understand that. But once on the wrist, there is no doubt that you are wearing a Seiko diver. The combination of the lugs, the numerals on the bezel, and especially the dial makes this unmistakably a Seiko.
The case is paired with an Oyster-style bracelet featuring polished center links and brushed outer links. I love the balance between the case size and the bracelet, and I was seriously impressed by the comfort they provide on the wrist. I must admit that the bracelet’s integration into the case is not the best. The inside of the lugs slope down dramatically to reach the bracelet, which sits quite a bit lower. But I also must say that the quality of the bracelet is fantastic for the price. I’ve handled both the SPB483 and the Seastar in question, and I can say that the Seiko’s bracelet is more robust and executed better than the Tissot’s.
The Seiko is the far more exciting choice
Inside the case, Seiko equips the watches with its in-house caliber 6R55. This automatic movement operates at 21,600vph and offers 72 hours of power reserve. It’s a familiar movement that Seiko uses for various watches. With an advertised accuracy of +25/-15 seconds per day, it isn’t necessarily more impressive than the Tissot’s Powermatic 80. I understand that might be of concern to people who obsess over specs.
But when choosing between these two watches, you can do so based on multiple principles. For me, it’s all about the design and the mentality behind it. The Seiko Prospex SPB483 is not here to please everyone, and I love that. It’s a design that is divisive and atypical for Seiko. But as I already stated, it is still a Seiko Prospex diver. Once I put the blue SPB483 on my wrist, I was seriously impressed.
While the Tissot Seastar 1000 ticks many boxes, it didn’t give me the excitement I felt when I wore the Seiko SPB483. In the end, that is what watches are all about for me. I need to feel like I want to wear a watch, and that’s what I got with the SPB483, whereas I didn’t feel that with the Tissot at all. And that is why the Seiko is my clear winner in this match-up. But I know you have something to say about that, Mike…
Mike: Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80
Right off the bat, the Tissot Seastar 1000 brings a price advantage to the duel. However, is that truly an advantage, or does it mean the watch is a less worthy rival to the SPB483? As a dyed-in-the-wool Seiko fan, I never would have cross-shopped a Swatch Group product. The idea doesn’t seem so far-fetched since the advent of the Powermatic 80, though, along with a host of good-looking choices from Tissot. As I’ve quipped on podcasts and in articles, brands like Tissot, Certina, and Mido are now beating Seiko at the game it used to dominate.
A full-fat diver at a great price
The Seastar 1000 debuted this March in four variants, including stainless models, black PVD, and a two-tone with gold PVD. Tissot went for the jugular with mainstream dimensions, including a 40mm by 46mm case with a mere 12.5mm thickness.
High-grade features, such as a 300m water resistance rating, a screw-down crown, and a sapphire crystal impress on a watch with a base price of just €795. Then, depending on the model, you get an Oyster-style bracelet or black Tropic-style strap with quick-release spring bars. Seriously, there’s a lot of value packed into these watches.
Bits of flair on the textured dial
We must be living in the age of the textured dial because the Seastar 1000 and Seiko SPB483 feature them. On the Tissot, a wood-like vertically grained dial comes in blue, turquoise, or gray. A combination of luminous rectangular, circular, and triangular applied indices provides a clean look. Similarly, the thick Super-LumiNova-filled hands ensure maximum legibility. A white-on-black date wheel sits within a framed rectangle at the base of the dial. Finally, all models come with an external unidirectional bezel. It’s filled with a black mineral glass insert.
Overall, a traditional look
Whereas the SPB483 has proven divisive for its styling, the Seastar 1000 may receive some flack for being too traditional. My view is that a dive watch with classic proportions and styling is always welcome. Plus, if it’s as nicely put together as the Tissot, then it’s a great choice. Plus, with the PVD option, it’s funky enough to keep from looking too much like, say, a Submariner.
A gem of a movement inside
The Powermatic 80 is widely used in Swatch Group products, and it’s a masterstroke in terms of value and performance. The lengthy 80-hour power reserve was and still is a class-leading feature. Regarding the accuracy, Tissot states ±15 seconds per day, but owners report near-chronometer levels. That’s markedly better than the SPB483’s 6R55, even if the Tissot runs at the far end of the reported accuracy range.
Time to choose
The Tissot Seastar 1000 is a value leader in a traditional package. The Seiko SPB483 and related variants bring a new style to a Seiko Prospex diver with great finishing. In the end, you can only choose one. Are you opting for the Seiko, or has Tissot captured the crown in the market for high-value, high-spec dive watches? Cast your vote, and let us know why you chose your winner.
