Sunday Morning Showdown: Vacheron Constantin 222 — Vintage Vs. Modern
Vacheron Constantin has recently taken the stage by reintroducing the stainless steel 222. This year, the world’s oldest continuously operating watch brand is celebrating its 270th anniversary — one of the reasons it’s part of the Holy Trinity — and started strong by giving us a recreation of its classic from 1977. Nearly five decades ago, a then-23-year-old watch designer named Jörg Hysek designed the original Vacheron Constantin 222. It featured the same JLC-based movement as the other two steel sports watches in the haute horlogerie segment, the Royal Oak 5402ST and Nautilus 3700/1A. However, the 222 was eventually replaced in 1996 with the Overseas collection.
A 222 ad from 1977
But then, in 2022, Vacheron Constantin surprised everyone with a full-gold recreation of the 222. It was the talk of the town during Watches and Wonders that year and praised by many enthusiasts following all the introductions. It was also easily one of our favorites of that year here at Fratello. And now, almost three years later, Vacheron ensured all watch enthusiasts were talking about the stainless steel version on the day of its release (and before, actually, as a French newspaper leaked it). So, who did it better — Jörg Hysek in 1977 or the current designers at Vacheron Constantin?
But before discussing the stainless steel Vacheron Constantin icons, let’s recap last week’s installment of Sunday Morning Showdown.
Last week’s Sunday Morning Showdown
The Muppets are not for everyone, or, rather, watches featuring them are not for everyone. And they don’t have to be; luckily, some of you see the fun in these types of watches. This week, I (RJ) finally could see the Oris ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition in real life, and it’s a fun piece. The pink dial is a bit too cotton-candy-like for me, but the execution of the watch in a smaller size is pretty well done. If Oris brings out some new stainless steel ProPilot X models with an all-brushed bracelet and fewer Jim Henson-inspired dials, they can have a good run with them.
Our very own Statler (Thomas) and Waldorf (Daan) took care of the Muppet show here last week, with Thomas backing Kermit and Daan supporting his favorite pig. However, it was a brutal victory for Kermit the Frog, with 70% of the votes. That was not a bad result for the Frogster, and I feel a bit bad for his ex. But now it’s time to move on to this week’s battle of iconic watches.
RJ: The modern Vacheron Constantin 222 in stainless steel
I can’t stress enough that I love the original 222, and the same applies to the aforementioned Nautilus 3700/1A and 5402ST. So why did I decide to back the modern Historiques 222 here? That’s a good question. It’s about wearability for me, and reliability plays a significant role in that too. Quality-wise, a modern watch is often a few steps ahead of its vintage counterpart. The 1977 Vacheron Constantin 222 is a great watch, but the bracelet is not up to today’s standards.
Also, while I love the Jaeger-LeCoultre 920-based movement inside the OG, I know from experience that it wasn’t the best performer and needed service more regularly than I would’ve liked. But hey, it’s a beautiful movement and perhaps one of the loveliest time-and-date calibers I’ve ever owned.
Big money for the original Vacheron Constantin 222
That said, for the money you need to shell out for a nice vintage Vacheron Constantin 222 in good condition, I want something I can wear daily without worrying. Damaging a modern watch has different implications than it has on a vintage piece. After spending €40K+ on a vintage 222, I would treat it super carefully. As weird as this may sound, spending around the same amount on a modern watch wouldn’t worry me as much. Buying a new watch makes it my watch, so I can do whatever I want with it, treat it how I want, and have it serviced when I want. I’ve noticed that I’m not as brave about wearing vintage watches.
Important upgrades
One advantage of the new 222 is that you can see the movement. The original 222 had an all-metal case back, but the new one lets you see what Vacheron Constantin is about. Admittedly, it is not the same “iconic” movement, but the in-house caliber 2455/2 is a looker. The rotor bears the exact “222” engraving as the original model had on its solid case back. On top of that (and this annoys me about many vintage watches), the original did not have a quick-set mechanism for the date. This 2455/2 has a quick-set date, making your horological life a bit easier.
And the bracelet, oh, the bracelet! It’s a work of art. The satin-brushed finish and the Maltese cross on the double folding clasp make it a looker. The quality of today’s bracelet is so much better than the ones (with the hideous flip lock) from the old days. There’s just one thing I prefer about the vintage ones, and it’s the single-folding design of the clasp. A double-folding/butterfly clasp tends to be a bit bulky on the inside of the bracelet. That said, it didn’t bother me when wearing this new Vacheron Constantin 222.
The more solid choice
Ultimately, it’s about how a watch makes you feel when wearing it. As you probably know, I own and wear a gold Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary, a re-edition of the 1969 BA145.022-69. The original is beautiful, but the new one has indisputably better build quality and all the perks of a modern watch. I prefer owning and wearing the modern re-edition over owning the original one. I used to own a vintage gold Speedmaster Professional, and it’s a different world when wearing it. The same applies here. The modern version feels more solid and will make you feel more confident about using it as often as you want. I could and would wear this modern 222 every day, while the vintage one would probably quickly become a safe queen.
The modern 222, although slightly different from its ancestor, is an incredibly cool-looking watch. On top of that, it will not bother you with someone else’s past. You can create a personal history (read: scratches and dents) with a modern watch.
Image: Amsterdam Vintage Watches
Mike: The vintage Vacheron Constantin 222 in stainless steel
Well, here we are again with another comparison of a modern reissue and the original. German designer Jörg Hysek penned the Vacheron Constantin 222 for the 1977 Basel show. Like the IWC Ingenieur SL, the watch has occupied a space in the second tier of 1970s integrated-bracelet dressy sports watches behind the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Unlike the IWC, though, it’s odd that the 222 has only recently garnered more interest. These days, good steel Jumbo 222s fetch mega money.
Image: Phillips
A tough argument, but there are flaws with the new model
Today, my argument for the original is a bit challenging. The new piece looks similar enough, but I think my complaint with the latest piece is more about what Vacheron has been doing or hasn’t done over the past 30-odd years. Much like IWC with the Ingenieur and Piaget with its original Polo, I will never understand why Vacheron stopped producing the 222. But I’m no marketing executive, so perhaps there were good reasons. However, I can’t understand why it took so long to reissue a steel 222. Now that it’s here, the new piece costs an eye-watering €35,300. If Vacheron had made the watch all along, buyers would have had the opportunity to pick it up years ago for a fraction of the price. Plus, there are changes that I don’t necessarily love with this new model.
Image: Chrono24
Design pieces need to keep their proportions
The original Vacheron Constantin 222 is 37mm by 7.2mm, whereas the new model is 7.95mm thick. That’s not a large difference, but historic watches like this should keep their original proportions. Also, RJ makes a point about the original’s more fragile bracelet and “hideous” flip lock. I guess I’m more of a fan of older, lighter bracelets instead of newer, bulkier executions. Plus, the original bracelet was made by the legendary Gay Frères and feels cohesive with the watch’s edgy design.
Image: Moonphase.fr
The original movement was fantastic
The original automatic Vacheron Constantin 1120 (JLC 920) caliber was a work of art. While not a modern movement, it’s a classic Swiss caliber with beautiful finishing. It’s also one of the thinnest full-rotor automatic movements in the world at just 2.45mm thick! The frequency is lower at just 19,800vph, but it boasts the same 40-hour power reserve as the modern 2455/2. With adjustments in five positions, this is a high-grade caliber that feels more special than its modern replacement. Finally, it’s worth noting that the same movement was used in the original Royal Oak and Nautilus.
Image: Chrono24
Vintage is always the way to go
My other highly controversial take is that vintage is always best. The hunt for the right watch, the research, and the feeling of wearing something so few own is hard to beat. Plus, there aren’t any more being made, which translates to a finite number of remaining pieces. I’m not saying that everyone will be able to buy the new Vacheron Constantin 222, but it’s an easier prospect if one has the means, contacts, and buying history. In the end, I’d simply rather have the original — warts and all.
Image: Amsterdam Vintage Watches
Time to choose the right Vacheron Constantin 222
Now it’s time to choose between the modern Vacheron Constantin 222 and the original ’70s model. There’s no wrong choice here, but it’s a decision between a rare vintage collectible and a modern reissue with updated specs and build quality. Let us know how you’ve voted and why in the comments section below.
