Sweet 16: The Moritz Grossmann Enamel Roman Vintage
Today, we’ll look at the new Moritz Grossmann Enamel Roman Vintage. This is a limited-edition watch celebrating the 16th anniversary of the brand’s revival. As always with Moritz Grossmann, the focus is on finishing and mechanical prowess.
For fans of Moritz Grossmann watches, the new Enamel Roman Vintage isn’t a new model. It’s a variant within an existing line, but it brings a beautiful new handmade enamel dial. Even though it’s exclusive and severely expensive, we thought it was worth sharing.
The Moritz Grossmann Enamel Roman Vintage — celebrating 16 years
The Enamel Roman Vintage is a limited edition of just eight pieces. It celebrates 16 years since Moritz Grossmann’s resurrection by CEO Christine Hutter. The 18K white gold watch has a 41mm by 46mm case with an 11.35mm thickness. It comes on a black alligator strap with a matching 18K white gold pin buckle.
An enamel dial requiring over 90 production steps
One of the key differentiators of this piece compared to “normal” Moritz Grossmann models is the enamel dial. The brand explains that production takes several days and encompasses over 90 steps. At any point, cracking or bubbling could occur, and the process would need to start from the beginning. Black enamel makes up the base layers. Then, white and red enamel are pad printed onto the dial and fired. The result is beautiful with endless depth. Moritz Grossmann also creates the stainless steel hands in-house, and they retain the brand’s signature shape.
The caliber 100.1
The Enamel Roman Vintage uses the manufacture 100.1 hand-winding movement. It is made of German silver and has the hallmark Grossmann balance with a hand-engraved balance cock. Functionally, the watch brings a party trick I’d love to try. It winds traditionally when the crown is in the resting position. Then, pulling the crown out stops the watch. However, due to its spring-loaded construction, the crown returns to the starting position against the case while the movement remains stopped in the time-setting position. All of this is to keep dust from entering the watch. To restart the movement, the user presses the pusher below the crown. It’s a lovely old-world solution in a modern dress-watch case.
The movement is regulated in five positions and consists of 198 parts. It includes gold chatons and a high standard of finishing. The frequency is 18,000vph, and it has a 42-hour power reserve.
Final thoughts
I could stare at most Moritz Grossmann watches for hours. The brand’s pieces are among my favorites due to their dials and stunning movements. It’s nice to see a traditional option in addition to all the futuristic skeletonized options on the market. Of course, this watch comes at a price. Each of the eight pieces will cost €62,800. That’s a lot of money, but for those who can afford it, a masterpiece will enter the collection.
