#TBT A Trio Of Oddball Watches From A Former President Of Cartier — Ralph Destino

The idea of “going round in circles” is often used as a synonym for not achieving anything. This is because, when moving in circles, you keep returning to the same point where you started, having made an effort to advance without actually achieving anything. But when it comes to watches, this is not necessarily a bad thing. That’s why today, we’ll be discussing Ralph Destino and his watches.

I do see two different ways of interpreting the idea of going around in circles: regular circles and random ones. I often find myself going around in circles regarding watches I keep on an active wish list. Let’s call them desirable watches. For example, Gallet watches fall into that category. I hunt them actively multiple times weekly, using the same or new, slightly more creative sources. The result can often be the same as when hunting in random circles (more on that later); you just far more often feel that you found nothing. What are we looking for this week? A Gallet Rattrapante? Well, it’s not the first time, so off we go again, making the thousandth round with little likelihood of success, and on and on it goes.

Ralph Destino on 1982 Smirnoff print ad.

Random circles with Ralph Destino

Then there is the other going around in circles: random circles. It happens with watches I like but which are not obsessive must-haves. The span between individual hunts is longer and inconsistent, sometimes weeks, months, or even years. Those “circles” are the opposite of regular; they are often driven by unexpected impulses. And that’s exactly how Ralph Destino came back on my mind again after two or three years since my last search.

It’s not easy to recognize, but it’s another one of Destino’s creations. Image source: Ricardo.ch

A Ralph Destino Recap

Let’s start with a refresher on Destino, a prominent figure in the American luxury jewelry industry. Destino spent over thirty years at Cartier, the last fifteen of which he served as chairman of Cartier North America. He was also named president of Les Must de Cartier Inc., the wholesale portion of the business in the U.S., where he handled Cartier’s introduction into North America. To better convey his creativity and wide focus, I will borrow a few lines from this NY Times article: “He flies to Detroit each year to design the luxury Cartier edition Lincoln Town Car. This involves choosing the colors and fabrics for the interior and the details for the dashboard.”

Now comes the twist

Ralph Destino was into watches, too. And I don’t mean as a collector (though it wouldn’t be surprising) but as a manufacturer. Before he became successful and rich with Cartier, he sold his jewelry manufacturer, Ralph Destino Ltd., which he established with his father back in 1958. As he was a jewelry nerd, you will find way more cufflinks with his name on them on eBay than watches. But he did make a number of them! And I dare say they are pretty bold, unusual, and well worth the interest of the right collector.

Image source: eBay.com

Ralph Destino Spider Web

The one watch that put Ralph Destino on my radar is one that I have nick-named the “spider web.” Three years ago, after I first saw it in a watch friend’s collection, there was not a single example available online. Now, there is one out there. It also happens to be in good condition and rather well-priced. Well, I should say that there are technically two of them out there. But I would not recommend even considering the other example, which has a pretty chewed-up dial. And that’s because, with the Ralph Destino “spider web,” it’s all about the hypnotizing dial. Before I knew about it, I had found myself on the hunt for a Doxa Grafic. But, I must admit, I prefer the Destino, so the Doxa has since been taken off the list.

Image source: eBay.com

What I really like about it is the fact that Destino overcame the urge to put the brand’s name (his name) on the web. This way, the off-centered design with concentric rings gets an ultimate clean look. Compared to other examples, there is another notable detail on branding. While some examples have a simple “Destino” stamped on the case back, just a few got Ralph Destino’s full name engraved on the movement. That current example listed on a matching gold-plated stretch bracelet is very, very tempting. Someone get it, please; otherwise, I fear that I may have to!

Image source: eBay.com

A leather-dialed Destino

Destino’s urge to create something special and unique was high, and the second model featured today proves it. We have seen lacquer, stones, precious metals, and even wood shining at us from under a set of watch hands. But have you ever seen a dial made of leather? Those who know may be able to name one or two rare examples from Hermés and Hublot, but this was certainly unique at the time. You’ll notice that this leather dial, which features the brand name and “17 jewels” printed on the bottom left corner, even matches the strap. No matter if the strap is dried out and totally unwearable, it is a cool vintage timepiece. The Destino background and unique use of materials might overpower my cold attitude toward dials with no hour markers.

Image courtesy of Ricardo.ch

Corvette-branded Destino

If you are still not impressed, let’s try the third example. This time disguised under Corvette branding. It features an onion-like crown at six o’clock (insert six exclamation marks here), a super tall UFO-like case, a badass set of hands decorated with rivet-like dots, and central lollipop seconds hand that is not filled with lume but matching black paint.

I am still not done counting the unique details found in this watch, which include a minute track that looks like rays from the shining sun on a dark background or a set of four unusual hour markers that seem to be drilled in flat steel dots. That’s a pretty epic touch. Other than that, you won’t find Destino’s name on the dial; but both the inner case back and the movement are stamped Ralph Destino Ltd.

Image source: eBay.com

Final thoughts

Collecting vintage watches from brands like Breitling, Omega, or Rolex is easy, but it’s also an expensive hobby. There’s a literal price to pay for those brand’s popularity. That popularity also has a second side effect. And that’s a certain feeling, in collector’s circles, that just about everyone has them already. This makes collecting them almost seem a bit boring. While the vintage watch realm is big and hides hundreds of unknown brands, finding a great story that combines a unique style and a founder’s strong personal story is difficult. Ralph Destino and his watches got it all. If I were new to vintage watches, I wouldn’t think twice about jumping in and starting to unearth what other timepieces branded Ralph Destino are out there. So, to someone (anyone!) out there listening: please make Destino your destiny, so I don’t need to. Thank you, and happy hunting!