#TBT Breitling Chronomat Ref. 769 — The Gentleman Extraordinaire

If watches attended classes on elegance and dignity, the Breitling Chronomat ref. 769 would be a lecturer, if not a rector.

The first Breitling I acquired was the Chrono-Matic ref. 2110. I liked the “race” for the first automatic chronograph as much as I liked the design of the chronograph itself. It ticked so many boxes for me. It had an unusual movement that brought a 12-hour recorder and left small seconds behind in favor of a date window. The Breitling Chrono-Matic was one of my very first vintage watch purchases.

From Chronomatic to Chronomat

When you put the Chronomat next to it, they seem like siblings, yet they are each very individualistic. It’s almost hard to believe that there are three decades between them. It’s not that the Chronomatic 2110 looks old; quite the opposite. The design of the Chronomat, which was born in 1941/1942, looks so timeless.

Mature relationship

I believe you also have a few special friends in your life. I am now thinking about my friends that I don’t usually see for years, but when we see each other again, it feels like we met yesterday. There is no blaming each other for not staying in contact and no regrets about the time we haven’t met. It’s about moments, understanding the quality of the relationship, peace, and true happiness that we could finally meet. There is no pressure or remorse that we missed something. Instead, we are just glad that we reunited. Because we knew we would, sooner or later…

Well, my connection to the Chronomat ref. 769 is sort of like that. We do not see each other often for a long time, but it doesn’t give me panic attacks. With some watches, I feel guilty if I don’t wear them that much. That’s not happening with my Breitling Chronomat. It’s not like it doesn’t deserve the wrist time; quite the opposite. It’s hard to explain, but I just really feel like there is no remorse or regrets. When we accidentally bump into each other (in a safe drawer), we smile at each other and continue from where we dropped off last time.

Mike and me

If you read Mike’s archive piece on his Chronomat 808, you will learn he had some relationship “delays” with it as well. Believe it or not, it’s been four years since I took over #TBT, and it has been four years that I have been thinking about featuring this watch. Well, here we are today.

Advertising poetry

If I wanted to add some booze to the fire, I would say that we are looking at the Navitimer’s father. However, the Chronomat was intended as a watch for pilots. To understand it better, I invite you to google vintage Chronomat ads. As an adman (or is that madman?) by profession, I can tell you I am so amused when I come across an ad with a donkey. Compare it to a Brad Pitt holding a surfboard, and tell me you are not surprised the subject of that storytelling is still on a wrist, beating loud and clear as it did almost 80 years ago when some engineer or mathematician used it to calculate slightly more complex calculations than the one in the print ad. If you want to fully understand how it works, look here.

What I like about the Chronomat ref. 769

Nobleness, majesty, magnificence, grandeur — you choose. Many dials that wiped out half of their Arabic-numeral markers still don’t have as much space and lightness as the Chronomat ref. 769 has. And it’s necessary to highlight that the Chronomat combines four scales and tracks in total. Mike’s later Chronomat 808 moved the patent number to the case back and made the Chronomat model name move above 6 o’clock. My older Chronomat ref. 769 has Chronomat squeezed tightly under the Breitling logo, but it allowed the patent to be printed on the dial. I find the characteristic patent cross a genuine detail and always a fresh addition to the dial.

Winners pack

And you know what’s best? All that, on top of the novel functionality, was packed into a sleek 36mm case. If I never saw the watch in person and just found its picture and didn’t read a single word, I would guess it was a 38mm watch at least.

Doc, wait!

My specific example dates back to 1946, making it three years older than my father. My brain still struggles to believe that. It’s just a perfectly aged set of syringe hands that double-confirms the era. Finding a 769 in such a pristine condition is not easy today, with prices climbing up to €5,000. A strong dollar doesn’t help much either. The slide rule usually moves very easily and almost feels loose. But as it isn’t a diver’s countdown bezel, and besides, you only read it while controlling it with your fingers. In the end, the friction of the slide rule doesn’t matter much. Besides, I bet you will never use it for any calculations.

Shotgun notes

If you are used to Breitling-signed crowns, do not run to your watchmaker to change it for you. Honestly, I don’t find the logo’s absence lamentable at all. The Chronomat was intended to be a tool watch, not a beauty-contest contender. Despite that, it’s a charmer with wong legs —sorry… lugs —sharp edges, and rectangular pushers. Have I ever confessed that I don’t like rectangular pushers? If I have a choice, I will always lean towards round-pushers versions. Well, here you see my exception.

A strap made in heaven

Any questions regarding the watch strap? It has quite a story as well. In the next few weeks, I will bring you a review of a set of vintage-inspired straps from WatchStrapHeaven. I was busy making a selection myself, so the people there pushed me forward with their selection. They included this one as well. I kindly rejected the offer. Actually, not very kindly. I said with a full mouth, “No thanks, it looks like linoleum.” Jan, the founder/owner of WatchStrapHeaven, neither shouted at me nor took it as an insult. He didn’t give up, and instead, he asked me to give it a chance. He said that it’s quite popular. It didn’t change my view on it, but I politely accepted.

Long story short, it’s surprisingly wearable. In pictures, it doesn’t look like a watch strap I would be willing to pay €150 for. But Italian Shell Cordovan Bund Strap Rothko Natural is very different. It’s so thin that it made me browse through my favorite watch strap suppliers to compare them. I believe you don’t find any thinner straps. And it makes a real difference when combined with Breitling Chronomat 769. I used to wear the watch with Localtime straps or soft leather Spoleto straps from Colareb, but I have a new champion.

Look at the thin profile shot above. Modern 2-3mm straps on a Chronomat are visual overkill, regardless of whether you want you to accept it or not. In this case, the lack of treatment, waxing, or painting on the strap sides has that simple beauty effect Chronomat and his non-signed crown have. Notice that there still is enough space for the side stitches to pop out. This is another detail that Jan added to make a vintage Bund-style strap feel younger.

Last thoughts on Chronomat ref. 769

The Venus 175 is high-class. It doesn’t have the smoothness that Excelsior Park movements have, but it’s a fine and reliable movement. Price-wise, the Breitling Chronomat ref. 769 isn’t underrated, but it still lives in the shadow of the mighty Navitimer. If you bought a modern Breitling and are unsure from what corner you should step into a vintage-watch realm, Chronomat ref. 769 would be a truly appreciated choice. Happy hunting.