The Best Watches I Saw At The British Watchmakers’ Day
Early in March, I attended the second British Watchmakers’ Day at Lindley Hall (Royal Horticultural Halls) in Westminster. The sophomore effort had another fantastic turnout and cemented the show as a bona fide addition to the watch-event calendar. With 45 British-based watch brands presenting, there was plenty for everyone to enjoy. All brands have a connection to the British Isles and are part of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers. Bremont was also in attendance for the first time after being notably absent last year. However, it didn’t stop Bremont CEO Davide Cerrato from roaming the halls and checking out the competitors’ and compatriots’ wares. As anyone who attended can attest, it can be pretty busy, and sometimes, a particular brand will receive the lion’s share of attention. While I didn’t get to see every brand, plenty did excite me for British watchmaking.
It was a glorious and unseasonably warm March day in London. After a late night at the Fears Watches Gimlet party, I was ready for the main event. A line was already appearing for watch fans in search of the number of limited-edition pieces solely available on the day. Daan went into these models here, but garnering the most interest was undoubtedly the Studio Underd0g × Fears Gimlet. I’ll go into why shortly, but also grabbing headlines was the even more limited Fears Brunswick 40.5mm Jump Hour Edwardian Edition. The 10 sterling-silver-cased pieces were snapped up quickly at a much higher price of £5,450. Elsewhere, Christopher Ward was doubling down on its highly successful C1 Bel Canto range with an assortment of colors available. Bremont also showcased its latest editions, with the heritage propeller logo all but entirely phased out.
Studio Underd0g × Fears Gimlet Brunswick 38
The limited nature of the Gimlet and the attractive price point made it an essential purchase on the day. A total of 200 pieces were available for £1,000 each, with 100 for the morning and 100 for the afternoon attendees. I couldn’t help but be swept up in the hype and purchased my first-ever Fears. I missed out on the morning queue but was able to snag one for the afternoon. Admirably, there was no preferential treatment for the press. I had to wait in line with only a plastic lime slice as a token of confidence that my Gimlet was waiting for me at the front. With it being my first time going hands-on, I was surprised by how nice the case felt compared to the more premium Brunswick 38.
While concessions were made to the case finishing to keep the price down, it still felt like a quality product. Also surprising was the movement feel. While the Sellita SW210-1 is no match for the top-grade ETA 7001 caliber in the Brunswick 38, manually winding the Gimlet feels tactile and satisfying. The playful all-lume dial and floating numerals also distinguish it from the stalwart Fears catalog. That’s where the Studio Underd0g flavor comes in, and from what I hear, the Gimlet is the first in a line of cocktail-themed collaborations between the two British brands. The cherry on top is The Strap Tailor calfskin leather strap in Vert Marquis. I look forward to the next edition of this exciting line of watches.
Bremont Terra Nova
Bremont was attending the British Watchmakers’ Day for the first time. Having missed out in 2024, Bremont sought to join the Alliance last year. The brand had a prominent stand this year and, somewhat symbolically, was situated a level above the other brands and opposite Roger W. Smith. As a Bremont owner before the recent change in management, I had been slightly skeptical of the change of direction and the de-emphasizing of producing watches in England. The new watches may have land, sea, and air exploration in their marketing. However, the plucky ethos of the former leadership is missing, and with such a dramatic shake-up in rebranding, it will be an uphill battle to rebuild. I wish Bremont the best and appreciate that hemorrhaging cash reserves to pursue the goal of British movement-making was fruitless. Yet that pioneering spirit is what attracted me and many others to the brand.
Within the new collection, I was smitten with the Terra Nova 40.5mm Power Reserve in bronze. The previously in-your-face dial design of the inaugural Terra Nova models is desaturated in the sandy and vertically gradient dial of the bronze 100-piece limited edition. Decreasing the numerals and logo size also goes a long way in allowing the dial tones to breathe. I would go as far as to say this is the best of the new Bremont, and it’s this subtle refinement of last year’s releases I’d like to see continue to establish its new trajectory. The limited nature of the Terra Nova and its £4,450 price could be a barrier. The logo refresh is another contentious issue, but with the gradual phasing out of the heritage propeller logo, it could end up like Christopher Ward, with a new logo fully adopted and, hopefully, embraced.
Zero West S5e Spitfire Escape
Zero West is another brand that is going for a shift in the right direction. I’ve always admired Zero West, especially its creative and referential dial designs. Visiting the Emsworth studio in southern England occasionally is one of my most enjoyable days covering watches. The element holding me back was the 44mm cases that made up the bulk of the catalog. While perfect for many wrists, the overhanging lugs didn’t sit well on mine. After extensive R&D, Zero West introduced the S5e and S6e Spitfire Escape. The brand now opens itself to a new audience thanks to a smaller 42mm case with a more streamlined design. Flight instruments inspire the S5e (time-only) and S6e (chronograph) dials, with part of a Spitfire Merlin engine cast into the case band’s limited-edition number plates.
My favorite is the £3,480 S5e with nods to the “Dirty Dozen” series of watches and military styling, such as the stenciled numerals and broad arrow symbol at 12 o’clock. For me, it’s the case that sets the S5e and S6e apart from previous Zero West watches. The modular design of the 316L steel housing, internally referred to as “DualConcentricConstruction,” shows the ability to mix and match polished with matte-finish surfaces in the future. You may even see alternating metals to highlight lasting legacies and bring narratives to life. Alongside the case are new strap options, including Zero West’s first bracelet. The three-row construction is perfect for everyday wear. However, I’m more interested in the integrated rubber strap as it feels great on the wrist and maintains focus on the case lines.
Schofield Watch Company Obscura
While the Schofield B6 Deep Blue, Shallow Green, and Sea-Change editions were new for the show, my eyes could not escape from the Obscura. The models mentioned above have stunning case backs featuring mermaids and enamel sea art by Benjamin Guffee in patinated bronze cases. But in my periphery was this almost bio-mechanical object that defied conventions. Initially, I thought the case was formed by superconducting materials such as we’ve seen with the Bamford × Black Badger Zenith El Primero Superconductor. Hastily, Giles Schofield corrected me that the Obscura uses a Damascus steel case yet eschews the typical wood-grain effect for a cellular structure. After many attempts at balancing the acid and oil case treatments, Schofield landed on a winning formula that’s unlike anything in the watch world.
Further alienating the Obscura in the nicest way is the sparse and unfamiliar dial design. Yet it all comes together seamlessly with a gray dial symbiotically matching the tones of the fascinating case. On the underside are three magnifying portals to view the partially obscured hand-wound Unitas movement. Further touches include the luminescent crown insignia and the multicolored luminescence on the dial periphery, revealed by a strong light source. Sadly, the well-lit venue — a rarity for watch events — hid the dial’s light show. Still, the Schofield Watch Company Obscura left a lasting impression on me as a rare sight in watchmaking. Limited to 40 pieces, the Obscura is available for £9,558.
Honorable mentions
There was so much to see, and this is not an exhaustive list. However, there were some further highlights to mention. The William Wood Dunkirk is still an excellent timepiece to behold, and it has so many details that I went into it here.
Vertex has a new expandable metal bracelet, or Fix-o-Flex, for the M36, which felt great on the wrist, although it was challenging to get over my hand. You can add links, however, to tailor-fit it to your wrist.
I also saw the Anoma A1 Slate, which brilliantly combines clever construction to maintain its triangular shape while also being wearable and, amazingly, housing an automatic caliber.
Did you attend the British Watchmakers’ Day this year? If so, what were your highlights? Let us know in the comments below, and we hope to see you there next year.
