The Disco Volante Is In — Two Viral Novelties And Their Vintage Inspiration

Disco Volante is a watch style. In Italian, it also means “flying disc” but neither Frisbee nor mid-argument dinner plates. It’s simply a term for a UFO and harks back to the mid-20th century. With such a rich history of Italian people collecting watches, many terms and nicknames have an Italian origin, but is this design ethos a new and rising trend?

Judging from the response to the seemingly lugless Furlan Marri Disco Volante in its three versions, we will see more, and I, for one, will rejoice. Like the odd Cartier Pebble with its massive resurgence, round or roundish watches with short or no lugs are comfortable daily wearers. They also offer a much-needed alternative to the plethora of diver’s watches that abound and are sleek options if small rectangles do not convince you. Let’s look at the Furlan Marri, a smooth alternative to it, as well as some strong pre-owned options.

A different take on vintage, now with a bracelet

I already covered the Furlan Marri inspiration for this story, now known as the Disco. Read my article on it here, and it will serve as an intro to a style that has gone fairly viral in #watchfam circles. Even if my forearm has a tattoo that reads “contrarian,” I do get the hype because we need new retro styles to covet.

We’ve all seen ’60s diver’s watches and know the time-traveling style they bring. I get it, but I enjoy dressing smart and have never quite caught the rectangular-Cartier bug, so I hope this is a new trend. In its three versions (Verde, Havana, and Celeste), the Furlan Marri Disco has been improved with the addition of a chic mesh bracelet that only heightened my desire. Better still, the price has remained the same at CHF 2,500

Image: Amsterdam Vintage Watch Co.

Vintage UFO grails from AP

The Furlan Marri Disco has a soft, circular case that takes inspiration from the most well-known flying saucers. Audemars Piguet might be known mostly for the Royal Oak and its Offshore brethren today, but when it comes to vintage dress watches, the brand excels. Most Disco Volante-style watches come with spare, minimalist dials like the Tiffany-signed one above sold by Amsterdam Vintage Watch Co. It has a Genta-revised design from the ’70s that AP made for many years. In fact, the one above is from the early 2000s. The elaborate oversized bezel with its concentric rings gives it a big presence, only underlined by the big added value of a Tiffany signature.

Image: Tempus Orologi

The AP Disco Volantes come in many references with wildly varying price points. But I should underline one important fact here. Though I mentioned that Gérald Genta revised the design, in fact, a German designer should get the credit for its creation. Gebhard Duve originally sketched the “Discovolante” 5093 models in the 1950s, as Audemars Piguet writes on its excellent AP Chronicles. The lovely 5093 above is my favorite, recently sold by Tempus Orologi in Italy for an unknown sum. It boasts a patinated cream dial and an architectural hobnail bezel in 18K white gold. Do a quick search on Chrono24, and you’ll find an exceedingly wide spread of prices, starting with this lovely manual-wind 1960s model at just less than €4,000 up to more than €30K.

Image: Chrono24 (private seller)

Sports watches, JLCs, Omegas, and more

You will find a lot more if you do a general Disco Volante search. And you’ll be able to get your hands on vintage UFO gems for less than €1,000. The trend took off (get it?) around 50 years ago, and the choices are vast. With this search on Chrono24, you’ll find quirky alternatives, such as this Longines Admiral powered by the caliber 431. It rocks a big (for a Disco Volante) 42mm case with a broad, radially brushed bezel. It’s very unusual and shows that some brands appropriated the style into a sportier context, which only adds spice.

Omega also had a UFO affair with the De Ville dress line. And within my search, they routinely appear for less than €1,000, offering big value. Of other brands, you will even find some Jaeger-LeCoultre variants and a delightful brace of Vacheron Constantin references. They are usually of the mid-’50s variety with a strong hobnail bezel design and a 35mm yellow gold case. However, the important question that needs to be asked is whether the Furlan Marri is the first of many new Disco Volantes to come. I say yes, and another lugless watch offers proof.

A triangular Disco Volante?

Like the rest of the team, I have only just decompressed from three days of horological wonder at Geneva Watch Days. And between running way too fast for 28° Celsius to catch a meeting, I met with Matteo Violet-Vianello. He’s the charming designer behind the brand Anoma. Brad Homes covered the Anoma A1 for us back in May, and after getting it on my wrist, I was smitten. The first model may have sold out and gone viral for good reason, but is it a Disco?

I would say “yes” as I’m sure there are triangular-shaped UFOs in the underground bunkers of Area 51. The Anoma has all the qualities except a circular case. It has a minimal design with a dressy touch sans lugs and is remarkably smooth with pebble-soft charm. The first run is sold out, but stay tuned to Anoma for more. I believe £1,300 is a fair price to enter the realm of flying objects.

Do wrist-worn flying objects tempt you, Fratelli? I’m certainly feeling them, and I will also add an image of the epitome of the term. No, it’s is not a watch but, rather, the amazing Bertona Alfa Romeo Disco Volante from 1952. Feel free to comment on the watches and the trend (and even the car) in the comments.