The Five Best Current Regulator Watches — Featuring Louis Erard, Chronoswiss, Patek Philippe, And More

Regulator watches are not often the first, second, or third pick for a collection. The watches with a large central hand to indicate the minutes and smaller sub-dials to display the hours and seconds are an acquired taste. This non-coaxial configuration might seem odd initially, but quickly enough, you will get used to reading the time accurately. The separation of elements also makes for distinct dial layouts that can look brilliant. We have selected five examples of exciting regulator watches that perfectly show how versatile this style can be.

Regulator watches are often associated with classical timepieces. Until recently, that would have made sense. In the last few years, though, we have seen quite a few regulator watches that leave behind the traditional looks in favor of more modern designs. But the classic aura surrounding regulator watches is not without reason. The style was inspired by regulator clocks found in clock repair workshops starting in the 1700s. The minutes were given the most prominence as they are the most important thing to be able to read correctly. The hour and seconds hands were placed in sub-dials so every element could be read independently for an accurate time setting. It’s a logical solution for a practical “problem.” So let’s find out about five brilliant regulator watches that are available new today.

Louis Erard × Alain Silberstein Le Régulateur

An immediate first pick for this list is the Louis Erard × Alain Silberstein Le Régulateur series. Louis Erard is known for its regulator watches, and we have seen many different variations of them from the brand. We have had quite a few in for review at Fratello, but none of them have made such a great impact as Louis Erard’s collaborative efforts with Alain Silberstein.

The first collaborative series of three watches was unveiled in 2021 and was an instant hit. The combination of the modern titanium cases with the instantly recognizable Silberstein style made for one of the year’s best, regardless of which model you preferred. We reviewed the Louis Erard × Alain Silberstein “Le Triptyque” Le Régulateur II from the series that sold out almost instantly. To our delight, though, this wasn’t the end of the series.

Since then, Louis Erard has released several variations of it. Every time I see them, I am reminded of the design brilliance of, specifically, Le Régulateur. After that first black model, a “Blanc” or white model followed the year after. Last year, Daan wrote about the Le Triptyque Khaki series, which also looked brilliant. Besides the regular La Semaine and Le Régulateur models, the brand added the stunning Le Régulateur Tourbillon to the lineup.

The latest version of the watch is a variation of the first black model. It incorporates blue accents on the dial and is still available for CHF 4,000. As all of the Louis Erard × Alain Silberstein models are limited editions, you need to keep an eye out for them.

The details of Le Régulateur

Our favorite Louis Erard × Alain Silberstein Le Régulator watches feature a distinct-looking 40mm micro-blasted case made of Grade 2 titanium. The polished lugs, measuring 47mm long and made of Grade 5 titanium, literally hold the case in place. Looking closely, you can see a clear color difference between the main case and the lugs. The watches are 11.8mm thick and have the same super comfortable nylon Velcro straps.

Powering Le Régulateur models is a 31-jewel élaboré-grade automatic Sellita SW266-1 movement with a 38-hour power reserve. As mentioned, you have to keep an eye out for new and upcoming editions. In my opinion, these are some of the most exciting regulator watches out there today.

Patek Philippe 5235R Annual Calendar

The next pick is a watch I had the pleasure of reviewing a little over four years ago. The Patek Philipp 5235R Annual Calendar is one of those watches that you won’t forget easily. The watch was part of a broader discussion about the brand integrating modern design queues into its watches.

I did not have a problem with that at all, and looking at the watch today, I still think it’s one of the brand’s nicest designs. And to call it a modern watch would be wrong in a way. The watch’s design finds its roots in the Art Deco era, a time in history that spawned amazing designs.

The 5235R features a 40.5mm rose gold case that is only 10mm thick. It is matched with a black and graphite dial with white and rose gold details. While the dial might seem fairly straightforward at first, there is a lot of detail to admire. The beautiful vertically brushed graphite backdrop features a black outer ring that holds the railroad minute track with its Art Deco-style numerals. Additionally, the integration of the annual calendar is refined and almost modest. The day and month indicators flank the hour sub-dial on the top half of the dial, while the date display is integrated into the small seconds display on the lower half. Together, the three displays form a nice triangle.

A caliber specifically developed for the 5235R

The watch is powered by the in-house caliber 31‑260 REG QA. Specifically developed for the ref. 5235, this movement consists of 313 parts. It is only 5.08mm thick and features a 22K gold micro-rotor and an unusual 23,040vph (3.2Hz) frequency. It is a beautiful work of art, and for an automatic complicated watch, it is nice and slim.

Overall, the Patek Philippe 5235R is a sleeper in the brand’s collection. Part of that is because it combines an annual calendar with a less familiar regulator display for the time. But I think that is what gives the watch so much charm. That charm, however, does come at a price. The Patek Philippe 5235R Annual Calendar costs €61,390, making it a wonderful piece of unobtainium for most of us.

Alpina Alpiner Extreme Regulator

Another example of a modern regulator watch is the Alpina Alpiner Extreme Regulator. As Thomas explained in his introduction article on the first 41mm model, it makes sense to use separate displays for the hours, minutes, and seconds in a tool watch. The improved readability works well in various situations in the great outdoors.

Since this watch’s debut in 2022, Alpina has added two color variations to the lineup. The trio of regulator watches presents a sporty look defined by the 41 × 42.5 × 12mm cushion-shaped case.

The case is paired with a triangular-patterned dial available in three colors. The inaugural model features a gray dial with blue sub-dials, while the second model reverses those colors, and the third features a full black dial. A glance at the dial reveals that the designers at Alpina applied a clear hierarchy. The hours sub-dial is significantly larger than the seconds sub-dial. This creates a natural order of importance when reading the time from the minutes to the hours and then the seconds.

The Alpiner Extreme Regulator is an original choice

Inside the 200m-water-resistant case, you will find Alpina’s automatic AL-650 caliber. Based on a Sellita movement, it has 31 jewels, ticks at 28,800vph, and offers a 38-hour power reserve. Both the inaugural and the black models come with super comfortable integrated rubber straps. The second model has an integrated stainless steel H-link bracelet that fits the style very well.

As Thomas explained, it’s a very cool piece if you are looking for a sports watch that’s off the beaten path. The Alpiner Extreme Regulator costs €2,195 on a rubber strap and €2,495 on the bracelet. The combination of the styling and regulator configuration makes this a distinct and affordable third pick for our list.

Chronoswiss Strike Two Regulator Series

This list would not be complete without picking something from Chronoswiss. Along with Louis Erard, the brand has made the regulator its signature style of watch. If you are a fan of Chronoswiss, you know that the older models are brilliant classically styled celebrations of the regulator style. Modern-day Chronoswiss creations still take inspiration from the earlier models but are far more extravagant takes on the subject. However, both coexist peacefully in the current collection. The brand showed last year that it can perfectly match the past and the present with the Strike Two Regulator Series.

Right before Watches and Wonders last year, Chronoswiss released the Strike Two Golden Gear and Strike Two H2O that Mike wrote about. Then, last November, the brand added the Strike Two Terra and Strike Two Highland. The four models combine the classic Chronoswiss style with modern techniques. One glance reveals that these are regulator watches with a horizontal display. The hour sub-dial is at 3 o’clock, while the small seconds is at 9 o’clock. As with the Alpina, the hour display is larger than the small seconds, demanding more attention.

The four Strike Two models feature 40mm round stainless steel cases that are 12.7mm thick. The cases feature the recognizable onion-style crown and coin-edge bezel that we know from Chronoswiss. The series now includes four dial variations that all have a very distinct character. Two models feature CVD-coated vertically brushed dials in either black or a beautiful and classic dark green. The other two come with textured dials in brown or blue. All of the models have a very distinct look.

The regulator caliber C.6000

Inside the watches’ cases, you will find the automatic Chronoswiss C.6000 movement developed with La Joux-Perret. This ruthenium-plated caliber and open-worked tungsten rotor are visible thanks to the display case back. The C.6000 is a beautifully finished movement that operates at 28,800vph and offers 55 hours of power reserve.

I love these modern takes on the original Chronoswiss regulator watches. You can clearly recognize the style from the watches from the 1980s and ’90s, but it is balanced with the modern aesthetic of the dial and the open gear with two vertical bridges visible behind the classic hour display. At CHF 9,800, these four models are also more affordable than many of their peers in the current Chronoswiss collection. The Strike Two watches are a perfect celebration of the past and the present.

Ressence Type 9

Our last entry on the list is another original take on the classic regulator watch. If you are familiar with Ressence, you know that the brand has a completely original approach to displaying the time. As Thomas explained in his review, the brand’s pebble-like watches feature integrated regulator dials and hands that are constantly rotating.

The Type 9 is the latest take on that theme and another striking variation we love. This watch features a 39mm Grade 5 titanium case measuring only 11mm thick. Underneath the domed sapphire crystal, the Grade 5 titanium dial rotates once every hour. The large central hand tells you the minutes, and the sub-dial displays the hours.

The hour display always stays on the opposite end of the minute hand and rotates counterclockwise. This ensures that the numerals always point the right side up. The inner disc of the hour display rotates as well, with the lume-filled pointer indicating the correct hour. This is all made possible by the patented ROCS 9 (Ressence Orbital Convex System) based on the ETA 2982-2.

The automatic movement also offers manual winding via the disc on the case back. Additionally, the caliber operates at 28,800vph and offers 36 hours of power reserve. The CHF 12,500 Ressence Type 9 proves that the traditional regulator display can be reinterpreted brilliantly in modern fashion. That’s why it is the perfect last entry on our list of five regulator watches that show the great variation possible with the regulator style.

Final thoughts on this list of regulator watches

While the regulator-style watch might find its roots in the early 1700s, the style itself is still as relevant as ever. And though it might not have the practical significance it did back then, the practicality of reading the time accurately is not lost. On top of that, separating the timekeeping elements gives modern watchmakers plenty of creative freedom to come up with great variations on the regulator style. But I want to turn the question to you: what are your favorite regulator watches? Let us know in the comments section.