The Fratello Team’s Most Worn Watches Of 2023 — From Breguet, Hermès, Omega, IWC, Rolex, And More
As the end of the year draws closer, it’s time to take a look back at the Fratello team’s most worn watches of 2023. In this article, we’ve compiled a selection of the most wrist-hogging watches from a handful of the Fratello staff. They range from vintage to new and dressy to sporty, and each has a story of its own. This year, the selection is a real mixed bag. Have a read through each editor’s section, and be sure to let us know your favorite in the comments below!
Mike: Patek Philippe Calatrava 570
Like most collectors, I try to do a diligent job of rotating my watches. Therefore, it says something if a watch that entered the collection in August(!!) qualifies as the watch I wore most often. The watch is none other than my white gold Patek Philippe Calatrava 570 from 1962. Now, I have to be careful not to spoil the backstory because an in-depth review of this watch is forthcoming. But suffice it to say, this is the watch for me. At my core, I’ve always favored the less-is-more approach to watch design, and in this regard, the 570 is an absolute masterpiece.
Every day, no matter what I’m wearing, I consider the 570. When I opt for something else, the reason is typically related to the weather, activities (i.e. athletics), or guilt from not wearing my other watches. It’s simply that good, and aside from the lack of water resistance, it’s a formal watch that truly works in just about every environment. I rarely subscribe to absolute statements, but in the case of the Calatrava 570, it’s easy to see why it’s lauded as one of the most iconic watches ever produced.
Dave: Hermès H08
The H08 is, so far, the most expensive addition to my collection this year. Sure, I’ve added a few small-budget pieces for fun, but the H08 was a serious and more calculated purchase. Since Hermès released the H08 back in 2021, I’ve been a fan. I lusted after its cool combination of titanium, DLC, and orange rubber strap. On paper, it was very “me,” but I rarely buy watches unseen. This was one that I had to see up close before taking the plunge. At Watches and Wonders 2023, I finally got a chance to see the watch in hand, and at that moment, I knew it was for me. After some quick searching on Chrono24, I found a seller in the US who offered a nearly unworn piece for a good price, and the rest is history. A few days of impatient waiting later, the doorbell rang, and then the watch was finally on my wrist.
Since the H08 arrived, it’s been the most frequent watch on my wrist. I’m not one for any kind of formal rotation, but the H08 rarely goes back into the safe. It spends a lot of time out and on the wrist or the valet tray for a day or so if I grab something else. The H08 is just so comfortable and perfectly sized for me and my wrist. In conversation with friends and fellow collectors, I have described the H08 as the perfect alternative to something like the Patek Aquanaut. Of course, they are not comparable in looks or even horological value (despite the H08’s Vaucher movement being rather nice to look at). What I meant is that both have a similar role — a classy sports watch on a rubber strap with ample water resistance, designed to be a daily wearer. The Aquanaut is expensive and nigh-on impossible to buy. The H08 can be purchased quite easily. Additionally, I am not scared to wear my H08 out and about for fear of attracting unwanted attention. It’s hard to argue with any of those points, right?
Thomas: Rolex Explorer II ref. 16570
Looking back on the watch year 2023, I have a clear winner in terms of wrist time — my black-dial Rolex Explorer II ref. 16570. Admittedly, I had to get used to this one. I obsessed over it for ages before finally pulling the trigger. And then…I didn’t quite enjoy wearing it. I don’t know why, but the Explorer II and I didn’t quite click.
Usually, when this happens, the feeling just gets worse over time. The watch will start feeling like a bad buy, and I end up selling it. Not this time. I started wearing the Explorer II now and then…then a little more often. And after a couple of months, it took 80% of my wrist time. I don’t have a clue how that happened, but I absolutely love it now. It feels like the watch that most closely suits my taste and style. It goes with everything, and I often have to push myself to go to the safe and switch watches. “Come on, you’re a watch guy; you cannot just wear this one watch all the time,” I often say to myself.
The Explorer II ref. 16570 has become the core of my collection. It is now my GADA of choice, with more specialist watches around it. And I think it may serve that purpose for some time to come!
Ben: Bremont MBII Savanna
At the end of my Bremont MBII review earlier this year, I stated, “The ultimate question is whether this hands-on time inspired me to purchase my own Bremont watch. Well, let’s say that the cogs are already turning on this. I should be on my way to becoming a Bremont owner in the next few months. All will be revealed soon, so stay tuned to Fratello for more on my Bremont journey.”
I have waited all this time to inform you that I finally got my Bremont MBII Savanna this summer. I knew I wanted a watch from the Martin-Baker range for my first Bremont piece. But as I looked at my collection, I noticed a lot of stainless steel watches with blue, black, or white dials. Therefore, the sandy and tactical coating on the 43mm Grade 5 titanium Savanna edition was different enough to stand out.
Since the summer, the Savanna has hardly left my wrist. I am experimenting with various straps, too, including the suede NATO from the limited-edition H-4 Hercules. The MBII is currently on the Artem 22mm Loop-Less™ Sand Beige Sailcloth strap.
Andreas: IWC Aquatimer Deep Two
I suppose my answer to this question is rather boring. The watch I wore most this year has been the same for many years. Usually, I wear a different watch each day, matching my clothes and mood. But this changes when I am on diving holidays. There, I’m diving almost every day, and for every dive, I wear my preferred dive watch. During the day, I don’t change my watch, and if I stay on a liveaboard or at a remote dive resort, I don’t even take any other watch with me. So I’m wearing that dive watch for several weeks a year, giving it wrist time that none of my other watches receive. The watch I prefer most for diving is the Aquatimer Deep Two from IWC. That’s because it contains a mechanical depth gauge. Initially, that depth gauge didn’t work quite satisfactorily, and I reported this issue on the former German IWC online forum. IWC listened and changed some parts of the depth gauge mechanism.
My watch was the first to contain that updated mechanism. After testing it during a few dives, I could report that IWC had solved that issue. The integrated depth gauge now reliably indicates the depth I visit. Having a depth gauge integrated into my watch saves me from carrying a separate instrument during my dives to form a complete backup for my dive computer. Apart from having accompanied me on several hundred dives, the IWC Aquatimer Deep Two is a good-looking and appropriately massive watch. Underwater, I wear it on a Velcro strap. After diving, I put it on the rubber strap because it looks much better and lets the Velcro dry. A quick-change system comfortably facilitates this.
Lex: Omega Speedmaster 3594.50.00 “Replica”
Maybe it wasn’t my most worn, but it was most definitely my best-worn watch of 2023. I’m talking about my Omega Speedmaster that they call the “Replica” or “Relaunch.” Yes, it’s the reference 3594.50.00, which features Broad Arrow hands and a steel bezel. I’ve tried a couple of straps this year, but the one I’m most satisfied with is a perforated pigskin strap from Joseph Bonnie. It’s thin, it’s supple, and it has a very uncommon brown hue. Therefore, it doesn’t have a name.
The “Replica” I’m wearing was made in 2001, and that makes it 22 years old this year. When is a watch considered vintage? Some say 20, others say 25 years. Since my Replica is older than 20 years, it’s not a pre-owned watch, but either new-vintage or even vintage. The strange thing is, I don’t see this watch as vintage. That’s for two reasons. The first one is that my kid was born the same year that the watch was made, and I don’t consider my 22-year-old a vintage son. The second reason is a bit more confronting because it has to do with aging: I still think 2001 happened almost yesterday. To me, vintage is the 1960s. In other words, when I wear my Replica, I look at a new watch while feeling vintage myself. But the watch looks so good with its steel bezel, Broad Arrow hands, and sculpted case that I don’t care.
Nacho: Omega Seamaster Professional 300M 2254.50.00
Could this be the most obvious “most worn watch” of them all? I don’t think it will come as a surprise, but the watch that spent the most days on my wrist during 2023 was (by far) the Omega SMP 300M ref. 2254.50.00. I wrote about it being my GADA watch in the first half of the year after picking it up in January. This Seamaster is not just a watch I truly enjoy from a functional, historical, and aesthetic perspective. It’s also one that I bought to mark my 30th birthday. With the focus of my interest in watches remaining firmly rooted in the relatively affordable side of things, nothing quite beats the value that “neo-vintage” pieces from big-name brands offer.
It’s a bit of a cliche to say it, but they just don’t make them like they used to. Sure, the 2254 doesn’t have many of the technically impressive specs of a current Seamaster. But it’s this pared-back simplicity that I find so charming. It’s similar to the appeal of a classic car, where less is more. Sure, there are no heated seats, power windows, or power steering (ceramic bezel, sapphire case back, or micro-adjustment), but I still love it and plan on driving it hard for many miles to come. Don’t be surprised if, come the end of next year, the Seamaster 2254 remains my most worn watch.
Morgan: Rolex Explorer ref. 124270
You probably guessed it already. Yes, my GADA watch is also my most worn watch of the year. The Tudor Pelagos FXD would have stolen first place if the year were longer, but I bought it over the summer, so it’s not fair to choose it ( I am looking at you, Lex). I wore my Explorer pretty much everywhere, from Switzerland to Réunion Island and during fancy dinners and dog walks. This Rolex model never feels out of place and kind of flies under the radar.
Regarding the year to come, I don’t know which watch will take first place. I have some watches on my radar already that could change everything (or not). But what I can tell you is that the Rolex Explorer will be on the podium for sure. I will never get bored with it!
RJ: Sir Mix-A-Lot
After my buying spree in 2022, which I covered in my Watch Resolutions For 2023 article, I took it very easy in 2023. I bought the watch I covered in that same article, the Breguet Tradition 7027, and a few small bits and pieces here and there. These included our salmon-dial Fratello × Aquastar Deepstar II and the red-dial Straum Jan Mayen. I also purchased a vintage 1986 Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph with an El Primero movement.
The Breguet Tradition received the most wrist time of the aforementioned watches. It’s a more versatile watch than I had thought, and with its modest 37mm case size, it is incredibly comfortable. Aside from that watch, I think I did not have a clear winner in terms of wrist time this year.
It was probably the Moonshine Gold Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary, but I don’t think the Speedmaster Calibre 321 and Rolex Day-Date are far behind. And to be honest, it’s fun to switch things up a bit. The problem is logistical because changing watches requires me to go to the safe deposit box, which is something I often need to plan with my traveling schedule.
That said, I will call the Breguet Tradition the winner for 2023. It’s a great addition to my modest collection of (mainly sports) watches, and now that it has been freshly serviced (it had lost its accuracy), it is perfectly suitable for daily wear.
Jorg: Seiko SZSB006 TiCTAC 35th Anniversary Limited Edition
Without a doubt, my most worn watch of this year is the Seiko SZSB006 TiCTAC 35th Anniversary Limited Edition. I wrote about this watch multiple times before I bought it. This Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) limited edition was created in collaboration with Japanese retailer TiCTAC and came out in 2019. It is Seiko’s take on an Explorer-like daily wearer. As I explained in a lengthy article, I was conflicted when I first saw it. Was it too much of an Explorer tribute?
But the more I looked, the more I saw a clever combination of design elements that reflected Seiko’s roots and made it a perfect addition to the Alpinist lineup. After our copy editor Brandon, who lives in Japan, edited the article, he told me that TiCTAC still sells the watch. With his help, I was able to get my hands on an SZSB006, and from the moment I received it, I’ve been wearing it religiously.
As I explained in another article about the watch, the design of the dial and hands feels rooted in Seiko’s history. In addition, the case is slim and precisely the right size for my wrist. Finally, the bracelet feels rattly, almost like a bracelet from the 1970s. This is something you would not want or maybe even expect from a modern Seiko piece.
But all these elements translate into an abundance of charm. Sure, the watch has its flaws, but the charm is much greater than the overall sum of its parts. That is exactly why it has been fun every time to put this Seiko Seiko SZSB006 TiCTAC 35th Anniversary Limited Edition on my wrist in 2023. It is easily my most worn watch of the year, and it has undoubtedly given me the most enjoyment as well.
Daan: Rolex Explorer ref. 114270
Just like Lex and RJ, I’m not sure which watch took first place in terms of wrist time. I’m used to putting on a different watch every day. Still, it feels like my Rolex Explorer ref. 114270, which I bought late last year, was my go-to watch in 2023. As Morgan already mentioned about his 36mm Explorer, it works in any situation, and it’s also never in the way. I wore it non-stop over the summer in Spain. It’s a watch that you never have to worry about, and it always looks so damn good on its infallible Oyster bracelet.
As my wife and I bought a house this year, in terms of additions to my collection, it was quite a calm 2023. I bought the new Blancpain × Swatch Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms Arctic Ocean because I was intrigued by Gregory Kissling’s story about its development. Recently, I also bought the 38mm Timex × Keith Haring Easy Rider. Both feel more like bonus watches, and I’ll probably wear them quite sporadically. Let’s see what next year will bring when all the renovations are done and we’ve finally settled in.
Thor: Aera D-1 Diver
In 2023, I wore my metal G-Shock a lot, but another watch was a big surprise. And with a 44mm case, I mean that literally. In May, unboxing a watch from Aera Instruments threw my compass off course by a big margin. I had written about the D-1 Diver before and, despite its size, admired it for its clean lines and almost Leica-like clarity. Just like Thomas, historically, I had been a loud-mouthed advocate for the reduction of watch diameters, but the D-1 turned me. And that’s a pretty big deal amid a consolidation that has seen most big-cased pieces sold. Two factors made me fall for the D-1 along with Aera’s firm decision to stick with 904L steel for all its cases and buckles (yes, it does make a difference, with a warmer feel to the skin, and a smooth, hefty feeling).
From my initial trepidation to an uncanny, draping wrist comfort in three seconds, it got its hooks into me. And remember, I even prefer bright colors, whereas this is a (mostly) monochromatic tool watch. What happened? Well, this is highly subjective, but the ergonomics are sublime for its size. The bezel is 44mm across, but the case is 42mm wide and smoothly rounded with an even smaller footprint on the wrist. From the perfectly bezel-aligned sapphire crystal’s curvature to the crisp numerals, the details add up in a big way. The FKM rubber strap, with its dramatically wrist-hugging curvature, laughs at the smallest dust particle trying to stick, while the long 904L buckle makes even the longish strap feel tailored. This means that a big watch has probably been my most worn watch this year, charming me with its laser-like clarity of purpose. Size isn’t everything, and Aera does big-brand execution for a very reasonable £1,100 price.
Brandon: A custom-made piece from HoD — “The Aladdin watch”
What a story this watch has! I commissioned it in July 2020, and it only just came home to stay in January 2023. First, it took about eight months to make it from scratch, but I was highly dissatisfied with the first dial when I got it because it looked way too black. I then commissioned another dial, which took a few months to get, and I foolishly thought that I could swap it myself. Well, in the process, I stained the anodized finish, and my watchmaker couldn’t fix it despite his best efforts. He then sent it back to HoD’s workshop in Russia, but the watch got lost in transit for a good seven months. Just when I’d lost all hope, it turned up somewhere, and it finally made it back to Moscow. In the meantime, however, HoD had gotten swamped with custom orders. Consequently, it took another 10 months for me to get my watch back! That was frustrating, to say the least, but all’s well that ends well. I ended up wearing this watch for over two months in 2023, and I adore it.
This piece will have very little monetary value to anyone else. For me, though, it’s not about that; this is a jewel in my collection. Everything about it was done to my specifications, from the cornes de vache lugs and custom-skeletonized ETA 6498 to the thermally purpled movement parts and purple crystallized titanium dial. We spent a good while getting the case design right, and at 41mm wide, 50mm long, and 10mm thick, it’s perfect. It provides just the right amount of visual impact without overwhelming my wrist.
As you can see, I got the folding clasp (and minute track) customized with my initials, and the custom ostrich-leg strap is an off-beat but great match. I had privately dubbed this watch the “Purple Reign,” but Wei Koh and Revolution beat me to putting it in writing with their latest Parmigiani collab. So I’ll go with our CEO Timo’s nickname for it — the Aladdin watch. “Riff-raff, street rat… I don’t buy that!”
Final thoughts
There you have it, folks — the watches most worn by a selection of Fratello team members. As we approach the end of the year, have you also been giving your collection some thought? What was your most worn watch in 2023? Let us know in the comments below.