The Fratello Watch List: Mike’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Cartier, Vacheron, And Rolex
Over the past year, I’ve enjoyed smaller, simpler watches from the ’40s and ’50s. This change in my collecting course has been fun and relatively inexpensive. Does that mean I’ve given up on later vintage and more modern pieces? Absolutely not, but as you’ll see with the majority of today’s pre-owned and vintage favorites, the choices are inspired by older watches.
I love variety when it comes to choosing a watch. Some days, I like a thicker sports watch that can handle the elements. On other days, I prefer a simpler dressy piece with a bespoke strap or vintage bracelet. What are my favorites? All of them, of course! Today, I will mention three pieces that have consistently stuck in my mind as long-term acquisition targets. Without further ado…
Image: Wind Vintage
The Cartier Tank Normale — one of my longstanding favorites
I promise I’m not on the Cartier hype train when mentioning the Tank Normale as one of my pre-owned favorites. To me, the Tank Normale is the Cartier Tank because it was the model designed in 1917. Yes, the thick case flanks are designed to look like tank treads. In fact, the Tank Normale’s more robust style is what raises it above other models like the more famous Tank Louis Cartier. I love the chunkiness and the chamfered edges.
Image: Wind Vintage
The Tank Normale is a weird little beast at just 23mm wide by 30mm long, and, yes, I thought it was too small when I tried one on at Wind Vintage. That was foolish because I am now used to wearing small watches. It’s a relatively rare watch that comes and goes in terms of production, with most desirable models coming from the ’70s out of Cartier Paris. Movement-wise, a bog-standard ETA 2512 manual-wind caliber sits inside, reminding us to focus on the outside of the watch. The Tank Normale is expensive, with decent examples fetching north of €20,000. Eric and Charlie of Wind Vintage seem to locate one or two nice ones annually. At some point, one will have my name on it.
Image: Swiss Hours
The Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques 31110 Oval
The Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques 31110 Oval is one of my sentimental favorites. It’s a watch my dad owns, and I still remember watching him buy it in St. Thomas back in the ’90s. Vacheron is currently overlooked for its work from this period, but the brand produced some beautiful watches with impressive dials. The 31110 Oval has a glorious case design and wears well at 28mm wide by 37mm long.
Image: Swiss Hours
Inside, there’s a real movement compared to the Cartier. The 20-jewel, hand-winding 1132 caliber ticks away faithfully. This is a bona fide Patek competitor, and best of all, if (and that’s a big “if”) an example is found, it can be had for roughly €7,000. Plus, the 31110 Oval comes in either platinum or gold.
Image: Wind Vintage
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1002 in 14K gold
A few weeks ago, a gang of us, including my colleague Dave Sergeant, hit up some vintage shops in London. We stopped at David Duggan in Burlington Arcade, and that wily character Dave located an understated gem in the showcase window. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1002 in 14K gold is not what one normally thinks of when considering vintage Rolex. However, this is a fantastic watch, and it has crept onto my favorites list. It also reminds us how versatile the Oyster case can be because it works on everything from an outright sports model to a dressier piece like the 1002.
Image: Wind Vintage
The 1002 was available in many combinations of dials and case materials, but the 14K model with a simple silver dial oozes class. At 34mm in diameter, it’s not a large watch, but it wears perfectly on wrists of nearly all sizes. Plus, it’s an odd case where a strap may look better on a Rolex than a bracelet. The 1560 automatic caliber was a certified chronometer. With a service, it should run without trouble for years to come. Regarding pricing, expect to pay €6,000–8,000 for a nice specimen.
Image: Wind Vintage
Final thoughts on my pre-owned favorites
When I look back at my picks from Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, and Rolex, there’s a definite pattern! All are made from precious metal, and none are larger than 34mm. I realize that rules out these watches for many of our readers. Still, it showcases some pieces that are rarely discussed. The Cartier is an expensive piece that is riding a wave of popularity, whereas the Vacheron represents extreme value. The Rolex is an oddball from the brand because it’s a quiet, non-sporty model that can work well in all situations. What are your thoughts on my picks, and do you have other dressy gems from the period that you recommend?
