The New Berneron Mirage 34 — My Favorite Watch Of 2024

The new Berneron Mirage 34 joins last year’s 38mm models in the small brand’s growing lineup. As we’ll see, these aren’t simply downsized editions. Each model showcases a stone dial and a new caliber. Hint: these are my favorite watches of this year so far.

Sylvain Berneron is the name behind the eponymous brand he started in 2022. He did this while working as the chief product officer at Breitling (he has since departed to focus solely on his company). I had the chance to meet him several times during his tenure at Breitling and always enjoyed our discussions. He’s into cars, general design, and, naturally, watches. In fact, it was his Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196 that ultimately convinced me that I needed one too. I followed Sylvain’s brand from afar but finally had the chance to go hands-on with all the models in Geneva. The new Mirage 34 watches were present, and they’re spectacular.

Visiting Berneron in Geneva

Our Geneva Watch Days 2024 schedule was packed solid with meetings. Thankfully, we typically build enough redundancy that one person can break away for an ad-hoc visit while another attends the original session. This is exactly what occurred when I met up with Fred Mandelbaum one day during Geneva Watch Days 2024. We started talking, and he mentioned that he had an appointment with Sylvain later that afternoon. It had been at least a year since I had seen him, and I hadn’t seen the watches live yet, so I asked if I could join.

An hour later, Fred and I arrived at a nondescript apartment building along the lake and rang the buzzer. After a few minutes, Sylvain arrived and let us into the lobby. It was great to see him, but I wasn’t prepared for what I saw next.

The 38mm Mirage for context

I followed the design and production journey for the original 38mm Mirage watch over Instagram. It was interesting to watch it take shape (no pun intended) and I love how the movement fits the case design. Seeing it in person was fabulous, but there was a problem. The watches, despite moderate dimensions, were too lengthy for my wrist.

Enter the Mirage 34

The two 38mm Mirage models were on display in the apartment. We couldn’t handle them because they were heading to the GPHG ceremony where fingerprints are a no-no. Static models were present, but two smaller, more colorful pieces caught my eye. They were non-running examples of the new Mirage 34.

The Mirage 34 uses a similar organic case shape that is echoed on most of the components. The domed acrylic crystal, display case back, and dial all echo the loose oval. Other elements, including the hands, tilted crown, pin buckle, and sub-seconds dial, add more non-linear details to the design.

Special stone dials

The Mirage 34 comes in two variants. An 18K white gold case houses a lapis lazuli dial, and an 18K yellow gold is paired with tiger eye. What I took away during the visit is that both stones are deeply colored and work beautifully in the case design. They don’t feel kitschy or like an odd ’70s watch that will soon become passé again. The decision to use an acrylic crystal was also a crucial one. It adds a layer of warmth also lacking in many stone-dialed watches. There’s more to these dials, though.

Each dial is handmade, and during our meeting, we heard that the failure rate borders on 85%. The dials are just slightly more than 1mm thin, and the maker uses a small engraving tip to create a crater-like shape for the sub-seconds dial. Because the dials are made from natural material, inconsistencies and fault lines are present. Often, the dials shatter during this process, but they’re durable if they make it past production. Under a loupe, the surface is slightly mottled, which shows evidence of hand-crafting. I usually don’t fall for stone dials, but the blend of craftsmanship and rich color makes these wonderful.

The case design

From a distance, the Berneron Mirage 34 is a polarizing design. With all the hype around Cartier, I’ve heard detractors mention a similarity to the Crash. I think that’s unfair because it relegates any amorphously shaped watch to the homage category. Regarding the Crash comparisons, I appreciate that watch, but it’s more of a red-carpet statement piece than a wearable item. The Mirage, however, does have definition and, despite its asymmetric nature, wears like a normal dress watch.

I wore my Calatrava 570 when we met Sylvain and his colleague Raffael. I held the Mirage 34, looked at the profile, and immediately saw signs of my watch. Classic barrel-ended lugs provide a home for traditional leather straps. Also, the rounded bezel adds a softness that helps the watches blend into the wrist. Even if I was only trying a non-runner without a movement, I struggled to hand the lapis version back after our meeting. The 34mm by 38mm case is just 7mm thick and looks perfect.

The new Cal.215

Sadly, we could only see a decal of the new Cal.215 on the sample pieces during our meeting. However, if the Cal.233 in the 38mm is anything to go by, these new movements will astonish. Berneron is working with an unnamed Swiss supplier to build this hand-winding movement with an interesting 25,200vph frequency. It has 72 hours of power reserve, 23 jewels, and a mainplate and bridges made of 18K gold.

The movement is built to fit perfectly into the non-traditionally shaped case. Best of all, the elaborate finishing is on display via a display case back affixed with four screws. Somehow, Berneron achieved a 30m water resistance rating for these watches.

Quibbles?

Do I have any concerns with the Berneron Mirage 34? I do, but they’re minor. Design-wise, I wish the “SWISS” font on the dial was either script or something less modern. Would that keep me from owning one of these? No, but the price of CHF 51,000 is a tough one (and that’s for 2026 production; it will increase to CHF 54,000 in 2027). Then again, ultra-low production of 24 units of each for 10 years (the first year, 2025, is sold out) makes it an exclusive specialty item.

I’m currently in a watch-collecting phase primarily focusing on simple, dress-style pieces. I enjoy wearing lighter, less complicated watches. For my money, the larger luxury brands have mostly forgotten how to make a truly special dress watch with a beautiful dial and case. The cases are too large, and the dials lack the handmade qualities that were present in the past. This is where a watch like the Berneron Mirage 34 catches my attention. Both models are lovely in hand, on a desk, or, importantly, on the wrist. I’d happily wear either, but if I can be choosy, make it lapis. How about you?