A Perfect Sequel — The New Biver Automatique Dials It Up
Our schedules were full at Geneva Watch Days 2024, but one of the most anticipated sessions was a late-afternoon meeting with Biver. We knew the young brand had a secret new release on the way, but details were scarce. The team, including Pierre Biver, showed us the new Biver Automatique line comprised of four references. Thankfully, we didn’t have to wait long for the embargo date.
We were excited to meet with Biver. After all, the name is highly familiar to anyone who follows watches and the industry. Last April at Watches and Wonders, the Carillon Tourbillon debuted with fanfare. I liked it, but I enjoy more scaled-back pieces sans complications. So when we heard rumblings about a simpler watch as the follow-up, the anticipation grew. The Biver Automatique is a more toned-down offering, yet it’s anything but simple.
Part two: the Biver Automatique
The Biver Automatique debuts with a choice of case materials. These 39mm by 47.55mm cases use 18K rose gold or 950 platinum. From a wearability standpoint, the watches are 10mm thick, including sapphire crystals on both sides. Furthermore, the watches have an 80m water resistance rating, which continues the brand’s commitment to making everyday watches that aren’t afraid of a swim. Of course, the leather strap with pin buckle will require a change. An upcoming optional bracelet with five rows of links is perhaps the sportier choice.
The permanent collection
At this stage, the Biver Automatique lineup contains two ongoing serial-production models. The platinum-cased piece has a solid white gold sector dial with applied indices and a black-polished logo. The rose gold version similarly follows suit. These watches’ cases alternate between brushed and polished surfaces with a lug profile that hints at ’40s and ’50s Borgel watches. I had my trusty loupe in tow while in Geneva and put the Biver Automatique to the test. The logo edges are so sharp and defined that they could double as a razor’s edge. While different, the inlaid minute track is lovely and looks “reverse struck” in coin speak.
The stunning Atelier Series pieces
Annually, the Biver Automatique will debut two limited-production stone-dialed models within its Atelier Series. The first model pairs a Pietersite dial with the rose gold case. Pietersite is a silica-based mineral found in Namibia and China, often showing shades of blue, gray, and red. In person, this dial is incredible and would be my choice. Note that a ridge is present to maintain the sector design found on the gold dials.
The second Atelier Series piece features an obsidian dial in concert with the platinum case. The sanded surface is almost lunar in its appearance! Once again, it’s beautifully presented, although I prefer the greater contrast of the Pietersite model.
The JCB-003 micro-rotor caliber
The Biver Automatique uses a new exclusive movement designed with Dubois Dépraz. It will serve as the base movement for future models from the brand. The JGB-003 caliber houses a 22K gold micro-rotor and beats at 25,200vph. Functionally, it has 65 hours of power reserve and a nifty zero-reset mechanism that returns the seconds hand to 12 o’clock when the crown is pulled out. The aim is to enable precise time setting. I tried this function during our visit, and it felt suitably sturdy.
Detail-wise, the movement hosts several finishing types and a plethora of plates. Guilloché patterns have been engraved and black polished onto several components, while straight graining and satin finishing are used on others. For anglage lovers, there are many edges to inspect. Once again, this movement was enjoyable to view through my loupe.
Pricing and final thoughts
The initial Biver Carillon Tourbillon was wildly expensive at over CHF 500,000. The new Biver Automatique is a fraction of that price, but it’s still not for the faint of heart. The rose gold model on a strap is the least expensive at CHF 75,000, with the platinum and obsidian version at the top of the range at CHF 92,000. The platinum model is CHF 78,000, and the Pietersite variant is CHF 89,000. Add CHF 28,000 or CHF 19,000 for a platinum or rose gold bracelet, respectively. Biver is positioning the brand above traditional stalwarts like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Breguet. The watches I saw were evidence of a proper effort. Let’s see how the market reacts.
