It’s All In The Details: The New Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Arabic Vintage
Admittedly, I’ve never covered a watch from Moritz Grossmann. A couple of weeks ago, though, I received an email that caught my attention. The new Benu 37 Arabic Vintage may look simple, but there’s plenty to uncover.
The name Moritz Grossmann is steeped in history. In 1854, Grossmann established an atelier in Glashütte and began making some of the world’s greatest timepieces. Before his death in 1885, he founded the German School of Watchmaking, which lived on under several names until 1992. Then, in 2008, Christine Hutter refounded the brand as Moritz Grossmann Uhren GmbH, and the first watch, the Benu, debuted in 2010. Today’s 37 Arabic Vintage stems from that line.
More background on Moritz Grossmann
I’ve done some digging on Moritz Grossmann and the manufacture. The brand prides itself on vertical in-house production. From what I can tell, the movements are made, decorated, and assembled internally. Even the hands are created within the brand’s workshop. Production is estimated at roughly 200 watches per year. Yes, these are special and expensive pieces.
The Benu 37 Arabic Vintage
What caught my eye with the Benu 37 Arabic Vintage were the Breguet numerals. I’m a fan of the style, and when I saw “Moritz Grossmann” on the dial, I assumed it wasn’t a typical field watch. That assumption was an incredible understatement. The watch, as the name suggests, is 37mm in diameter. It also measures 46mm long and comes on a brown kudu leather strap with a pin buckle. So far, that sounds quite simple.
What a dial!
Visually, the 37 Arabic Vintage dial sets it apart from other Benu watches. Like many components hailing from Glashütte, it is made of German silver. In this application, it’s untreated and has a rough, matte black finish. However, the Arabic numerals, brand name, minute track, and center hole are all raised. These are not applied. Black engraving is a thermal process that creates the color and matte surface. Even the brand name is expertly engraved and uses the same font from 1875.
Behold the consistent diagonal brushing on the surface of the numerals. The detail work is sublime! Alongside a Laurent Ferrier, the hands on a Moritz Grossmann rank as my favorites. They’re slender with a graceful thicker section before the tips. Artisans make these steel hands in-house. They follow many challenging steps and use wooden wheels to create chamfers. Finally, the hands undergo annealing.
A brushed 37mm steel case
The Benu 37 Arabic Vintage has a finely brushed stainless case. It strikes a balance between a dressy and, dare I say, military vibe. The generously sized lugs curve downward to hug the wrist. A brushed and rounded bezel gives the watch a slightly softer appearance while a flat sapphire crystal with antireflective coating provides a clear view of the dial. The ridged crown tapers toward a domed, unsigned top. It’s ample for winding duties but not oversized.
A beautiful movement
The Benu 37 Arabic Vintage is only 9.2mm thick, and a contributing factor is the lovely hand-winding caliber 102.1 with its 4mm thickness. This in-house movement is made of German silver. It features a classic Glashütte two-thirds plate with surface finishing done by hand and an engraved balance cock. Note the use of gold chatons for some of the 22 jewels. Next, the movement has a frequency of 21,600vph and 48 hours of power reserve. Watchmakers have adjusted the movement to five positions after assembling the 188 components. Moritz Grossmann has created a new asymmetric-arm escapement that significantly improves impulse behavior. Head here for more information on the movement.
Final thoughts
The Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Arabic Vintage is priced at €39,700. This makes it an expensive proposition. However, it’s in the same range as other Haute Horlogerie brands, including Laurent Ferrier. This watch has a straightforward design, but like many of these exclusive pieces, the devil is in the details. The dial is fantastic with its single-piece construction and surface details. Plus, I like the case size. Then, there’s the movement. Some decry the lack of bridges on a Glashütte watch, but the brand has added a pleasing level of manual finishing. What are your thoughts on this watch, and would you like to see us cover more Moritz Grossmann pieces?
