Three Weeks And Several Ocean Adventures With Tudor’s Black Bay 54

Tudor’s release of the Black Bay 54 in 2023 underlined the ongoing trend of smaller watches. In this feature, I consider what it’s like to live with Tudor’s Black Bay 54. This is less about specs and more about the vibe. Read on.

While I appreciate a chunky tool watch as much as the next person, smaller watches just feel better on my wrist. You see, I have quite small wrists, each measuring around six inches in circumference. Thankfully, though, this has been a real advantage for me when collecting watches. For one, I have been able to thoroughly enjoy 34mm cases, which has opened up a wonderful world of vintage and neo-vintage watch options.

My perfect case diameter starts with a 3

Look no further than my May 2024 feature on the Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1002, a beautiful design from a golden era of 20th-century watchmaking by The Crown. Watches with 32–36mm cases used to be the standard for men. Now it’s probably in the 40–42mm range. But the first “tool” watches that went on expeditions with explorers to the tops of mountains and the North and South Poles all had a smaller case diameter in the mid-30s.

Despite watches having ballooned like crazy in the 2000s and 2010s, the trend of late has been for them to shrink. Perhaps we could attribute this cultural shift in the watch hobby to Tudor’s Black Bay 58, which was a runaway commercial success. That was due, in no small part, to its 39mm diameter and relatively slim sub-12mm thickness. I happen to own and love a blue Tudor Black Bay 58. The initial love I had for the ergonomics of this particular watch has never faded away.

Tudor’s Black Bay 54

I was tickled pink when Rolex offered to provide me with an example of Tudor’s still relatively new Black Bay 54. The opportunity to spend several weeks with this watch and take it out in the ocean was one I could not pass up. With its 37mm case size, the Black Bay 54 has sparked my interest since its debut at Watches and Wonders last year. Now that the hype has died down, it was a good time to reflect on what this watch represents and whether I would recommend it to our readers.

My esteemed colleague Thomas has already written quite a detailed analysis of his time with Tudor’s Black Bay 54. If you want all the specs and technical details, I heartily recommend you check it out here. In his summary, Thomas noted the following: “To me, the Tudor Black Bay 54 is the best execution of the throwback Tudor diver concept so far.” That is high praise coming from a watch journalist who created a watch brand of his own!

Tudor’s been on a strong streak lately 

I recently spent a month with one of Tudor’s latest releases, what has been dubbed the Black Bay “Monochrome.” This comes in at 41mm wider, and I consider it a direct competitor to the modern Rolex Submariner. It does feel like Tudor has been on a strong streak lately. Perhaps it is because the brand continues experimenting in ways its older sibling does not. Or maybe it is because Tudor, to me, feels more akin to the Rolex of yesteryear.

Either way, the brand continues to release hit after hit. Sure, the folks there are masters of the tease, releasing watches close to but not exactly right for many enthusiasts (too much faux patina, too many gold accents, etc.). Nevertheless, it is undeniable that a revitalized Tudor, and the Black Bay line in particular, has been a significant success.

Coming back to the Black Bay 54

The wearing experience of this smaller watch is fantastic. It honestly feels like a vintage watch until you use the grippy, tactile bezel or wind the firm, excellently machined crown. Both, by the way, are significant ergonomic improvements over my Black Bay 58. The teeth on the bezel, in particular, are a very significant positive difference.

This is particularly apparent in any underwater setting, which became clear when I went free diving with friends. I found the bezel easier to operate with wet hands, and the slim case design gave me a sense that I would not scrape this watch on a rock. The dial is relatively easy to read underwater, with the traditional Tudor snowflake hour hand instantly distinguishable from the minute hand.

Irks and niggles 

One of my only gripes with this watch is the significant faux patina on the lume. When using a watch in a high-contrast underwater environment, crisp white lume plots are much easier to read at a glance. Faux patina is also a design trait that continues to irk me, though many people love the look. I realize that for some of you, faux patina is “just another color,” and I respect this point of view. For me, though, when it takes away from legibility underwater in real-world conditions, it is a design choice that leaves me scratching my head.

The other gripe — and this surprised me — is that the Black Bay 54 sometimes feels just a little bit too small! I think this has more to do with how thin the watch is rather than how it sits planted on my wrist. The lug-to-lug span of the watch is very reasonable and feels quite close to my Black Bay 58. Tudor, it’s not you; it’s me.

Concluding thoughts 

When I initially received the Tudor Black Bay 54, I wondered if it was my endgame watch. But once those little niggles kicked in, I just couldn’t forget them. One thing the Black Bay 54 made me realize is how attached I have become to wearing and seeing my navy Tudor Black Bay 58 every week. I love the bezel design of the larger sibling, with its more modern minute markers right up to the 15. I love the crisp white lume and the subtle hues of blue that change with each lighting scenario. But perhaps the Black Bay 54’s handsome black dial with its subtle sunburst will scratch the itch for you instead. It’s just a matter of taste, I guess.

For renewing my enthusiasm for my Black Bay 58, I can only thank Tudor (and Rolex) for lending me the Black Bay 54. For those of you after a truly vintage-esque experience, this Tudor Black Bay 54 can handle the adventures while feeling pretty darn close to a mid-century Rolex or Tudor dive watch. Aren’t we lucky to have so many options now as enthusiasts? Let me know your thoughts in the comments, dear readers. Have you experienced this watch in the metal? If so, what did you think of it? I’m looking forward to reading your opinions.